How to Plant a Spirea Bush ~ Plant Care Guide
Spiraea /spaɪˈriːə/, is a genus of about 80 to 100 species of shrubs in the family Rosaceae. They are native to the temperate Northern Hemisphere, with the greatest diversity in eastern Asia.
The genus formerly included the herbaceous species now segregated into the genera Filipendula and Aruncus; recent genetic evidence has shown that Filipendula is only distantly related to Spiraea, belonging in the subfamily Rosoideae.
Spiraea plants are hardy, deciduous-leaved shrubs. The leaves are simple and usually short stalked, and are arranged in a spiralling, alternate fashion. In most species, the leaves are lanceolate (narrowly oval) and about 1 to 4 inches (2.5 to 10.2 cm) long. The leaf margins are usually toothed, occasionally cut or lobed, and rarely smooth. Stipules are absent.
The many small flowers of Spiraea shrubs are clustered together in inflorescences, usually in dense panicles, umbrella-like corymbs, or grape-like clusters. The radial symmetry of each flower is five-fold, with the flowers usually bisexual, rarely unisexual. The flowers have five sepals and five white, pink, or reddish petals that are usually longer than the sepals. Each flower has many (15 to 60) stamens. The fruit is an aggregate of follicles.
Species
- Spiraea affinis
- Spiraea alaskaense
- Spiraea alba – narrow-leaved meadowsweet, pale bridewort
- Spiraea albiflora
- Spiraea amoena
- Spiraea arcuata
- Spiraea baldschuanica
- Spiraea bella
- Spiraea betulifolia – white meadowsweet
- Spiraea blumei
- Spiraea calcicola
- Spiraea cana
- Spiraea canescens – Himalayan spiraea
- Spiraea cantoniensis – Reeve’s spiraea
- Spiraea chamaedryfolia – elm-leaf spiraea, germander meadowsweet
- Spiraea crenata
- Spiraea decumbens
- Spiraea douglasii – Douglas’ spiraea, steeplebush
- Spiraea gemmata
- Spiraea henryi
- Spiraea hypericifolia – Iberian meadowsweet
- Spiraea japonica – Japanese spiraea
- Spiraea lobata
- Spiraea longigemmis
- Spiraea media – Russian spiraea
- Spiraea micrantha
- Spiraea miyabei
- Spiraea mollifolia
- Spiraea nervosa
- Spiraea nipponica
- Spiraea prunifolia – bridal-wreath spiraea
- Spiraea pubescens
- Spiraea rosthornii
- Spiraea salicifolia – bridewort, willowleaf meadowsweet
- Spiraea sargentiana
- Spiraea septentrionalis – northern meadowsweet
- Spiraea splendens – rose meadowsweet
- Spiraea stevenii – beauverd spirea
- Spiraea thunbergii – Thunberg’s meadowsweet
- Spiraea tomentosa – hardhack, steeplebush
- Spiraea trichocarpa
- Spiraea trilobata – Asian meadowsweet
- Spiraea veitchii
- Spiraea virginiana – Virginia spiraea
- Spiraea wilsonii
- Spiraea yunnanensis
Hybrids
There are also numerous named hybrids, some occurring naturally in the wild, others bred in gardens, including several important ornamental plants:
- Spiraea × arguta (S. × multiflora × S. thunbergii) – garland spiraea
- Spiraea × billiardii (S. douglasii × S. salicifolia) – Billiard’s spiraea
- Spiraea × blanda (S. nervosa × S. cantoniensis)
- Spiraea × brachybotrys (S. canescens × S. douglasii)
- Spiraea × bumalda (S. japonica × S. albiflora)
- Spiraea × cinerea (S. hypericifolia × S. cana)
- Spiraea × conspicua (S. japonica × S. latifolia)
- Spiraea × fontenaysii (S. canescens × S. salicifolia)
- Spiraea × foxii (S. japonica × S. betulifolia)
- Spiraea × gieseleriana (S. cana × S. chamaedryfolia)
- Spiraea × macrothyrsa (S. douglasii × S. latifolia)
- Spiraea × multiflora (S. crenata × S. hypericifolia)
- Spiraea × notha (S. betulifolia × S. latifolia)
- Spiraea × nudiflora (S. chamaedryfolia × S. bella)
- Spiraea × pikoviensis (S. crenata × S. media)
- Spiraea × pyramidata (S. betulifolia × S. douglasii) – pyramid spiraea
- Spiraea × revirescens (S. amoena × S. japonica)
- Spiraea × sanssouciana (S. japonica × S. douglasii)
- Spiraea × schinabeckii (S. chamaedryfolia × S. trilobata)
- Spiraea × semperflorens (S. japonica × S. salicifolia)
- Spiraea × vanhouttei (S. trilobata × S. cantoniensis) – Van Houtte’s spiraea
- Spiraea × watsoniana (S. douglasii × S. densiflora)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spiraea
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How to Plant a Spirea Bush ~ by Caryn Anderson
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/plant-spirea-bush-24222.html
Adding a 2-inch layer of mulch helps discourage weeds from growing.
Spireas (Spiraea) fill the landscape with cascading clusters of flowers that bloom in spring and summer. These deciduous shrubs grow to heights and spreads of 2 to 10 feet, depending on the variety. They are hardy in Sunset Climate Zones 14 through 17. Spireas flourish in coastal and inland climates and are one of easiest types of flowering shrubs to grow, since they require minimal maintenance and adapt to a range of growing conditions.
Find a planting area that has well-draining soil, receives full to partial sun exposure and has enough space to accommodate the spirea’s projected mature size. Take spacing into consideration. Plan to allow 2 to 15 feet between plants, allowing more space between larger varieties of spirea.
- Dig a hole that is as deep as the spirea’s root ball and at least twice as wide to allow the roots to spread out. In general, you do not need to add anything to the soil or test its pH since spireas adapt to most types of soil. If the soil is very low in organic materials, mix about 1 inch of compost in with the garden soil while planting.
- Remove the plant from its container, gently loosening any roots that are wound tightly around the root ball. Place it upright in the hole and fill it in halfway with soil. Water the hole thoroughly, saturating the ground to remove any air pockets that may later damage the spirea’s roots. Wait until the water is absorbed to fill the hole completely with soil and water thoroughly again.
- Create a ring around the spirea’s hole, mounding soil 2 to 3 inches high to help hold water in the planting area. Distribute a layer of mulch about 2 inches thick around the planting area beyond the ring that you created. After the plant’s first season, remove the ring and place mulch closer to the plant.
- Water plants regularly throughout the growing season, adding an average of 1 inch of water weekly. Where you live may dictate how frequently you have to water your plants. For example, gardeners in coastal areas usually have sandy soil. Sandy soil drains faster than other types of soil, making it necessary for gardeners to water more frequently.
Things You Will Need
Spade
Garden tiller (optional)
Compost (optional)
Mulch
Planting times are flexible. Gardeners should plant spireas in spring or fall to allow young plants time to become established before summer.
About the Author
Caryn Anderson has been writing professionally since 2007. She specializes in a variety of subjects, including food and healthy recipes, pets and health. She is an avid gardener and travel enthusiast. Anderson holds her Bachelor of Science in communication studies from New York University.
Photo Credits
Jupiterimages/Photos.com/Getty Images
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Care of Spirea ~ by Jackie Carroll
Spirea comes in a wide range of sizes and types, each with its own uses in the landscape. Small varieties, such as the 1.5-foot-tall Spirea japonica, work well as neat, rounded ground covers. Mid-sized plants, including most varieties of S. x cineria show best in foundation plantings and shrub borders. If you’re looking for an informal hedge or specimen plant, choose S. nipponica, S. prunifolia or S. vanhouttei, which grow to between 5 and 9 feet tall. Spring-blooming spireas generally have white flowers, while summer-blooming types usually bloom in shades of pink or red.
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/care-spirea-21670.html
Spirea ~ Spireas are small to medium sized deciduous shrubs that produce cascades of flowers in spring and summer.
http://www.garden.org/plantguide/?q=show&id=2103
Growing Spirea Shrubs: Information On How To Care For Spirea Bushes
http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/spirea/growing-spirea-shrubs.htm
Drip Irrigation Systems ~ How to
Make Your Own Pop Bottle Drip Irrigation System
http://yougrowgirl.com/make-your-own-pop-bottle-drip-irrigation-system/
Do it Yourself Bucket Drip Irrigation System
http://www.csupomona.edu/~jskoga/dripirrigation/
HOW TO INSTALL A DRIP IRRIGATION SYSTEM ~ A slow drip irrigation system can be great for new trees and plants, and by doing some of the irrigation on your own you can save some cash.
http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-install-a-drip-irrigation-system/index.html
Chard ~ Planting, Growing and Harvesting ~ How to
Chard (Beta vulgaris subsp. cicla), is a leafy green vegetable often used in Mediterranean cooking. The leaves can be green or reddish in color like Bibb Lettuce; chard stalks also vary in color. Chard has been bred to have highly nutritious leaves and is considered to be one of the most healthful vegetables available, making it a popular addition to healthful diets (like other green leafy vegetables). Chard has been around for centuries, but because of its similarity to beets it is difficult to determine the exact evolution of the different varieties of chard.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chard
Botanical name: Beta vulgaris
Plant type: Vegetable
Sun exposure: Full Sun, Part Sun
Soil type: Loamy
Bloom time: Summer
Chard is a member of the beet family that does well in both cool and warm temperatures. It can be cooked or used raw in salads and is high in vitamins A and C.
Planting
Plant chard seeds 2 to 3 weeks before the last spring frost date. Continue planting seeds at 10-day intervals for a month.
For a fall harvest, plant chard seeds again about 40 days before the first fall frost date.
Before planting, mix 1 cup of 5-10-10 fertilizer into the soil for every 20 feet of single row.
Plant the seeds 1/2 to 3/4 of inch deep in well-drained, rich, light soil. Space the seeds about 18 inches apart in single rows or 10 to 18 inches apart in wide rows. Sow eight to ten seeds per foot of row.
Care
When the plants are 3 to 4 inches tall, thin them out so that they are 4 to 6 inches apart or 9 to 12 inches apart if the plants are larger.
Water the plants evenly to help them grow better. Water often during dry spells in the summer. You can also mulch the plants to help conserve moisture.
For the best quality, cut the plants back when they are about 1 foot tall. If the chard plants become overgrown, they lose their flavor.
Pests
Leaf minor
Slugs
Aphids
Harvest/Storage
You can start harvesting when the plants are 6 to 8 inches tall. Cut off the outer leaves 1-1/2 inches above the ground with a sharp knife.
If you harvest the leaves carefully, new leaves will grow and provide another harvest.
You can cut the ribs off the chard leaves and cook them like asparagus.
The rest of the leaves are eaten as greens. You can cook them like spinach or eat them raw.
You can store chard in the refrigerator in ventilated plastic bags.
Recommended Varieties
‘Lucullus’, which is heat tolerant.
‘Ruby’, which can be a beautiful addition to your garden due to its bright red stems.
‘Bright Lights’, which has multicolored stems.
Recipes
Swiss Chard and Pasta Soup with Turkey Meatballs
http://www.almanac.com/plant/chard
How to Grow Pomegranate
The pomegranate /ˈpɒmɨɡrænɨt/, botanical name Punica granatum, is a fruit-bearing deciduous shrub or small tree growing between 5–8 meters (16–26 ft) tall.
The pomegranate is considered to have originated in Iran and has been cultivated since ancient times. Today, it is widely cultivated throughout the Mediterranean region of southern Europe, the Middle East and Caucasus region, northern Africa and tropical Africa, the Indian subcontinent, Central Asia and the drier parts of southeast Asia.[4] Introduced into Latin America and California by Spanish settlers in 1769, pomegranate is also cultivated in parts of California and Arizona.
In the Northern Hemisphere, the fruit is typically in season from September to February. In the Southern Hemisphere, the pomegranate is in season from March to May.
The pomegranate has been mentioned in many ancient texts, notably in Babylonian texts, the Book of Exodus, the Homeric Hymns and the Quran. In recent years, it has become more common in the commercial markets of North America and the Western Hemisphere.
Pomegranates are used in cooking, baking, juices, smoothies and alcoholic beverages, such as martinis and wine.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pomegranate
How to Grow a Pomegranate Tree
Three Parts:Planting Your Pomegranate ~ Caring for Your Pom ~ Pruning and Maintaining Your Pom
There are few things more delicious in this world that a juicy pomegranate. The glistening insides of the fruit sparkle like so many edible rubies. If you love pomegranate, or Punica granatum, try growing your own plant. While the plant is more shrub-like than tree shaped, you can train your pom to take on the shape of a tree. Scroll down to Step 1 to learn how you can grow your own pomegranate plant.
http://www.wikihow.com/Grow-a-Pomegranate-Tree
HISTORY:
Historically, the pomegranate has been associated with fertility and ripe health. From the latin phrase “grained apple,” the pomegranate is mentioned in Ancient Egyptian documents, the Bible, as well as Ancient Roman recipes for love. Belonging to the myrtle family of trees, the pomegranate has long been revered as a both a life-giving and aesthetically pleasing fruit.
HERBAL PROPERTIES AND USES:
This fruit is extremely rich in disease-fighting antioxidants. Currently the extracts, juice and oils of this fruit are being studied for their potent anti-inflammatory agents, as well as their ability to reduce muscular aches and pains. Pomegranate seed oil, as well as pomegranate juice, is known to fight free radicals, reduce swelling, prevent aging, and act as an overall protectant for sunburned and ultraviolet-damaged skin.
Pomegranate Cultivation and Growing Methods Here
http://www.globalhealingcenter.com/organic-herbs/growing-a-pomegranate-tree
Pomegranate trees (Punica granatum) are especially suited for growing in containers. The dwarf trees are easier to care for than a full-size tree, while still producing a good harvest of fruit. Full-size trees grow up to 20 feet tall. Dwarf varieties such as “State Fair” grow to be about 5 feet tall and “Nana” is only 2 to 3 feet tall when fully mature. They are suitable for outdoor growing in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7b to 10. Bring them indoors for the winter in colder climates. Expect your tree to produce fruit the second or third year after planting.
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/grow-pomegranate-trees-containers-43843.html
HOME FRUIT PRODUCTION-POMEGRANATE
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/citrus/pomegranate.htm
How to Grow Tomatoes
The tomato is the edible, often red fruit/berry of the nightshade Solanum lycopersicum, commonly known as a tomato plant. The species originated in the South American Andes and its use as a food originated in Mexico, and spread throughout the world following the Spanish colonization of the Americas. Its many varieties are now widely grown, sometimes in greenhouses in cooler climates.
The tomato is consumed in diverse ways, including raw, as an ingredient in many dishes, sauces, salads, and drinks. While it is botanically a fruit, it is considered a vegetable for culinary purposes (as well as under U.S. customs regulations, see Nix v. Hedden), which has caused some confusion. The fruit is rich in lycopene, which may have beneficial health effects.
The tomato belongs to the nightshade family, Solanaceae. The plants typically grow to 1–3 meters (3–10 ft) in height and have a weak stem that often sprawls over the ground and vines over other plants. It is a perennial in its native habitat, although often grown outdoors in temperate climates as an annual. An average common tomato weighs approximately 100 grams (4 oz).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tomato
Botanical name: Lycopersicon esculentum
Plant type: Vegetable
USDA Hardiness Zones: 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10
Sun exposure: Full Sun
Soil type: Loamy
Soil pH: Acidic
Tomatoes are America’s favorite garden vegetable. (Yes, we technically eat the fruit of the tomato plant, but it’s used as a vegetable in eating and cooking and, thus, usually categorized in vegetables.)
This vine plant is fairly easy to grow and will produce a bumper crop with proper care. Its uses are versatile, however, tomatoes are susceptible to a range of pests and diseases.
Planting
If you’re planting seeds (versus purchasing transplants), you’ll want to start your seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the average last spring frost date. See our post on “Tomatoes From Seed the Easy Way.”
Select a site with full sun and well-drained soil. For northern regions, is is VERY important that your site receives at least 6 hours of sun. For souther regions, light afternoon shade will help tomatoes survive and thrive.
Two weeks before transplanting seedlings outdoors, till soil to about 1 foot and mix in aged manure, compost, or fertilizer.
Harden off transplants for a week before moving outdoors.
Transplant after last spring frost when the soil is warm. See our Best Planting Dates for Transplants for your region.
Establish stakes or cages in the soil at the time of planting. Staking keeps developing fruit off the ground, while caging let’s the plant hold itself upright. Some sort of support system is recommended, but sprawling can also produce fine crops if you have the space, and if the weather cooperates.
Plant seedlings two feet apart.
Pinch off a few of the lower branches on transplants, and plant the root ball deep enough so that the remaining lowest leaves are just above the surface of the soil.
Water well to reduce shock to the roots.
Care
Water generously for the first few days.
Water well throughout growing season, about 2 inches per week during the summer. Keep watering consistent!
Mulch five weeks after transplanting to retain moisture.
To help tomatoes through periods of drought, find some flat rocks and place one next to each plant. The rocks pull up water from under the ground and keep it from evaporating into the atmosphere.
Fertilize two weeks prior to first picking and again two weeks after first picking.
If using stakes, prune plants by pinching off suckers so that only a couple stems are growing per stake.
Practice crop rotation from year to year to prevent diseases that may have over wintered.
Pests
Tomatoes are susceptible to insect pests, especially tomato hornworms and whiteflies. Link to our pest & problem pages below.
Aphids
Flea Beetles
Tomato Hornworm
Whiteflies
Blossom-End Rot
Late Blight is a fungal disease that can strike during any part of the growing season. It will cause grey, moldy spots on leaves and fruit which later turn brown. The disease is spread and supported by persistent damp weather. This disease will overwinter, so all infected plants should be destroyed. See our blog on “Avoid Blight With the Right Tomato.”
Tobacco Mosaic Virus creates distorted leaves and causes young growth to be narrow and twisted, and the leaves become mottled with yellow. Unfortunately, infected plants should be destroyed (but don’t put them in your compost pile).
Cracking: When fruit growth is too rapid, the skin will crack. This usually occurs in uneven water or uneven moisture due to weather conditions (very rainy periods mixed with dry periods). Keep moisture levels constant with consistent watering and mulching.
Harvest/Storage
Leave your tomatoes on the vine as long as possible. If any fall off before they appear ripe, place them in a paper bag with the stem up and store them in a cool, dark place.
Never place tomatoes on a sunny windowsill to ripen; they may rot before they are ripe!
The perfect tomato for picking will be firm and very red in color, regardless of size, with perhaps some yellow remaining around the stem. A ripe tomato will be only slightly soft.
If your tomato plant still has fruit when the first hard frost threatens, pull up the entire plant and hang it upside down in the basement or garage. Pick tomatoes as they redden.
Never refrigerate fresh tomatoes. Doing so spoils the flavor and texture that make up that garden tomato taste.
To freeze, core fresh unblemished tomatoes and place them whole in freezer bags or containers. Seal, label, and freeze. The skins will slip off when they defrost.
Recommended Varieties
Tomatoes grow in all sizes, from tiny “currant” to “cherry” to large “beefsteak.” There are hundreds of varieties to suit different climates and tastes. Here are a few of our favorites:
‘Amish Paste’: Large paste tomatoes, good slicers.
‘Brandywine’: A beefsteak with perfect acid-sweet combination. Many variants are available.
‘Matt’s Wild Cherry’: Foolproof in any climate, cherries bear abundant fruit in high or low temps and in rain or drought.
For more about tomato varieties, see our post on “Tomato Trials: from blue to grafted; what grew this summer.”
Recipes
Broiled Parmesan Tomatoes
Deb’s Fresh Tomato Sauce
Carrot-Tomato Bisque
Fried Green Tomatoes
Blue Corn Chips with Goat Cheese, Corn, and Tomato Salsa
Tomato Jam
Pasta with Tuna, Tomatoes, and Olives
Cooking Notes
Capture the garden-fresh taste of tomatoes all year long! See this helpful post on how to can tomatoes.
Wit & Wisdom
In 1522, Spanish explorers returned home from the New World with tomatoes. Wealthy people believed that the fruits were poisonous. Only the peasants were brave (and hungry) enough to eat them.
Ease a headache by drinking tomato juice blended with fresh basil.
http://www.almanac.com/plant/tomatoes
Sisyrinchium ~ Blue-eyed Grasses Plant Care Guide ~ Varieties
Sisyrinchium (Blue-eyed Grasses) is a genus of 70-200 species of annual to perennial plants of the iris family, native to the New World.
Several species in the eastern United States are threatened or endangered.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sisyrinchium
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Sisyrinchium
Common Name: blue-eyed grass
Type: Herbaceous perennial
Family: Iridaceae
Native Range: Southeastern United States
Zone: 4 to 9
Height: 1.50 to 2.00 feet
Spread: 0.50 to 1.00 feet
Bloom Time: May to June
Bloom Description: Blue
Sun: Full sun
Water: Medium
Maintenance: Medium
Suggested Use: Ground Cover, Naturalize
Flower: Showy, Good Cut
Garden locations
Culture
Best grown in medium moisture, well-drained soil in full sun. Tolerates light shade. Prefers consistently moist soils that do not dry out, but drainage must be good. Will freely self-seed in optimum growing conditions. Plantings may be sheared back after bloom to avoid any unwanted self-seeding and/or to tidy foliage for remaining part of the growing season. Plants may need to be divided every 2-3 years to keep plantings vigorous.
Noteworthy Characteristics
Though their foliage is grass-like, the blue-eyed grasses belong to the iris family not the grass family. Sisyrinchium angustifolium is noted for its violet-blue flowers and branched flowering stems. It is native to Missouri where it occurs in damp open woods, slopes and along stream banks throughout much of the State. It is a clump-forming perennial that features a tuft of narrow grass-like leaves (to 3/16″ wide) typically growing to 12″ (less frequently to 20″) tall. Clusters of violet-blue flowers (to 1/2″ across), each with 6 pointed tepals and a yellow eye, appear in spring on stalks growing from leaf-like bracts atop usually branched flowering stems which are distinctively flattened. Sisyrinchium campestre, also a Missouri native, features pale blue to white flowers atop unbranched flowering stems. S. angustifolium includes plants formerly classified as S. bermudianum.
Problems
No serious insect or disease problems.
Garden Uses
Best naturalized in informal garden areas such as cottage gardens, woodland gardens, wild gardens or native plant areas. Also effective in border fronts and rock gardens. Also effective as an edger for paths or walkways.
http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=i870
Blue-Eyed Grass can be a shy, retiring plant at times. They are small perennials, only 10-30 cm (4-12″) tall, with leaves to 3 mm (1/8″) wide. They start opening their eyes in early June and continue to look around all through June. But you have to be a morning person. Sometimes I have gone to photograph those pretty blue eyes in the afternoon only to find that they have already closed their eyes for the day. And just try to find them when their eyes are closed! Their medium green grass-like leaves fade into the background and mingle shyly with all the prairie grasses around them.
Each pretty blue eye sheds a tear when it is finished blooming, in the form of a small round seed capsule filled with tiny black seeds. Perhaps they are tears of happiness or perhaps they are tears of sorrow. We can only speculate. This plant is also known as Star Grass by some people because the flowers are distinctly star shaped. Blue-Eyed Grass is actually not a true grass, but a member of the Iris family, closely related to Blue Flag or Wild Iris (Iris versicolor).
Native Habitat
Blue-Eyed Grass is a native perennial that grows across the prairies and parklands in open meadows. I have seen it growing in a field in northwest Winnipeg along with Prairie Crocus and Three Flowered Avens. John Morgan (Prairie Habitats – see Gardening with Native Prairie Plants) also reported seeing a hillside covered with blooming plants in the Carberry Hills of Manitoba.
http://www.naturenorth.com/spring/flora/begrass/Fbegrass.html
Narrowleaf blue-eyed grass, Narrow-leaf blue-eyed-grass, Bermuda blue-eyed grass, Blue-eyed grass
Iridaceae (Iris Family)
Synonym(s): Sisyrinchium bermudiana, Sisyrinchium graminoides
USDA Symbol: SIAN3
USDA Native Status: L48 (N), CAN (N)
The numerous, narrow, light-green leaves of this perennial form dense, tufted clumps which steadily grow with new foliage during the season. The flattened, leaf-like flowering stems may be up to 18 in. long and bear light-blue, star-shaped flowers a few inches above the leaves. Height is 1-1 1/2 ft. Several delicate, blue or deep blue-violet flowers with yellow centers in 2 broad bracts top a flat stem, generally only 1 flower at a time in bloom; stems taller than the clusters of narrow, sword-shaped leaves near base.
Although the plant is small and has grass-like leaves, the flowers have all the features of the Iris family. The various species are all much alike and separation is based on such characteristics as branching pattern and leaf length. Common Blue-eyed Grass (S. montanum) is also a widespread species, with slightly wider leaves, over 1/4 (6 mm), and unbranched stalks.
PLANT CHARACTERISTICS
Duration: Perennial
Habit: Herb
Size Notes: 1-1.5 feet.
Leaf: Green
Fruit: Brown
Size Class: 1-3 ft.
BLOOM INFORMATION
Bloom Color: Blue
Bloom Time: Mar , Apr , May , Jun , Jul
Native Habitat: Meadows; damp fields; low, open woods
GROWING CONDITIONS
Water Use: Medium
Light Requirement: Sun , Part Shade
Soil Moisture: Moist , Wet
CaCO3 Tolerance: Low
Soil Description: Moist, poor to average soils
Conditions Comments: This short-lived perennial will decline if allowed to dry out. Heavy mulch causes crown rot and rich, organic soils encourage rank, vegetative growth. Plants need to be divided at least every other year.
BENEFIT
Use Medicinal: Amerindians used root tea for diarrhea (in children); plant tea for worms, stomachaches. Several species used as laxatives. (Foster & Duke)
Conspicuous Flowers: yes
Deer Resistant: No
PROPAGATION
Propagation Material: Seeds
Description: Propagate by seed or division. Several dozen divisions can be expected from a mature, healthy specimen.
Seed Collection: Collect seed capsule when they have darkened to brown and become wrinkled.
Commercially Avail: yes
FIND SEED OR PLANTS
Find seed sources for this species at the Native Seed Network.
http://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=SIAN3
Sweet and Spicy Fresh Salsa w/ Homemade Tortilla Chips
Make this salsa as sweet and as spicy as you’d like!
Ingredients
Chopped Onion, your preference, yellow, white, red
1 clove Garlic, Minced
(½ bunches Cilantro-washed) if you like cilantro, and to taste
Jalapeno/s (as hot as you would like it, leaving seeds and ribs increases heat)
16 oz peeled diced tomatoes (Romas work great for salsa)
(2 teaspoons, more or less to taste) Sugar
1 Tablespoon White Vinegar
1 pinch Dried Oregano
3 dashes Salt And Pepper, to taste
1 pinch Cumin
Juice of half a Lime
Preparation
Chop and dice all ingredients, (you can use food processor if you like, pulse until desired consistency is reached). Refrigerate in an air tight container until ready to serve (overnight is best for flavors to marry). Serve with fresh chips.
Homemade Corn Tortilla Chips!
http://copykatcook.blogspot.com/2012/02/homemade-tortilla-chips.html
(caution when handling jalapenos you might want to wear gloves to protect your skin, can burn)
How to Make Homemade Roasted Peppers
using hot or sweet peppers, including Bell, banana, chilies, jalapeno, and pimiento’s
Click here for a PDF print version!
Roasted peppers are expensive in the grocery stores; but they’re EASY to make at home! Here’s how to make your own roasted peppers! The directions are complete with instructions in easy steps and completely illustrated. While it is not considered safe by the USDA, FDA and University food science labs to can them at home, you can refrigerate them or freeze them!
Prepared this way, the roasted peppers have a fridge shelf life of about 2 months.
Directions for Making Roasted Peppers
Ingredients and Equipment
- Peppers (see step 1)
- Gar or charcoal grill or an oven or a stovetop (called a “cooker” in the U.K.)
- Tongs
Optional:
Seasoning: herbs d’ Provence, Italian spices, basil, Thyme, whatever you like!
Rubber or latex gloves (if your skin is sensitive to capsicum!)
Recipe and Directions
Wash the peppers!I’m sure you can figure out how to rinse the peppers in plain cold or lukewarm water.
Step 1 – Selecting the peppers
The most important step! You need peppers that are FRESH and crisp. Limp, old peppers will make nasty tasting roasted peppers. Guests will probably throw them at you.. Select filled but tender, firm, crisp peppers. Remove and discard any soft, diseased, spotted and rusty pods. Select small peppers, preferably 1 inch to 1 and ¼-inch in diameter. Larger peppers are often too fibrous and tough.
Hot pepper caution: Wear plastic or rubber gloves and do not touch your face while handling or cutting hot peppers. If you do not wear gloves, wash hands thoroughly with soap and water before touching your face or eyes. Hot peppers can burn your eyes and skin – ever heard of pepper spray?
Step 3 – Cut the stem end off the peppers and remove the seeds
Small peppers may be left whole. Large peppers may be quartered. Remove cores and seeds. Slash two or four slits in each pepper
Step 4 – Blister the peppers
Peppers have a skin that turns REALLY tough when you can the peppers, so you’ve got to remove the skin before canning. Fortunately, there is an easy trick to remove the skins. It’s called “blistering”. Just heat up a fry pan to medium hot, and lay the peppers in there skin side down. In just a few minutes, the skin will start bubble up and darken – that’s blistering – once cooled, the skin peels off easily by hand.
Here are some other methods for how to blister peppers:
Outdoor grill method: this is the easiest method – Place
peppers on a charcoal or gas grill about 5 to 6 inches above glowing coals; using tongs carefully turn peppers frequently (skin side down if they are cut up), exposing all surfaces to the heat source until skin blisters evenly on all sides.
Oven or broiler method: Place peppers in a hot oven or broiler set at 400º to 450ºF (205º to 232ºC) for 6 to 8 minutes; using tongs carefully turn pepper often until skin blisters evenly on all sides.
Stove top method: Place peppers on wire mesh over a hot electric or gas burner; using tongs carefully turn peppers frequently, exposing all surfaces to the heat source until skin blisters evenly on all sides.
Microwave oven method: Place peppers in a microwave safe dish; cover with secure air-tight lid to allow for steam build up. Place container on rotating plate in the center of the oven, then microwave for 7 to 8 minutes depending the oven wattage and power level (settings may vary depending on microwave oven used). The blistering is not visible with this method. However, the skin will have a tougher, more brittle texture compared to the raw pepper. Allow steam to fully develop in the covered container for 1to 2 minutes after microwave cooking. Caution: The hot steam will be released from container when the lid is opened – don’t get burned!
Step 5 – Allow the peppers to cool
Allow them to cool until you can comfortably handle them (about 20 to 30 minutes). You don’t want to burn your hands, do you? Allow the peppers to cool by placing them in a pan and cover with a damp cloth. This will make peeling the peppers easier.
A visitor writes on August 16, 2009: “My husband learned to roast peppers from his mother which is using the outdoor grill method that you describe. But he was able to also teach his mother a new trick. After you take the peppers off of the grill, place in a paper bag and allow to cool. The skins peel right off. I think it works the same as what you do with the towel.
Step 6 – Peeling the Peppers
Then pull the blistered skin off the rest of the pepper with a gentle tug and an occasional rinse with water. In areas of the pepper where the blistering was not complete, just scrape the skin off with a knife or vegetable peeler.
Step 7 – Finish up!
You can rinse the peppers under the facet to get off any remaining seeds or debris, if you wish, or just scrape them with a knife! they’re ready to eat! You can also season them with olive oil and spices, typically Italian seasonings like oregano, thyme, basil!
Keep them in the refrigerator for up to 2 months, or freeze them in ziploc bags (or better still, vacuum bags)
Other Equipment:
From left to right:
- Jar lifting tongs
helpful to pick up hot jars - Lid lifter
– to remove lids from the pot
of hot water - Lid
– disposable – you may only
use them once - Ring
– holds the lids on the jar until after
the jars cool – then you don’t need them - Canning jar funnel
– to fill the jars
How many peppers and where to get them
You can grow your own, pick your own, or buy them at the grocery store. An average of 9 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints jars. A bushel of peppers weighs 25 pounds and yields 20 to 30 pints canned; an average of 1 pound per pint
Mint ~ Mentha Plant Care Guide
Mentha (also known as mint, from Greek míntha, Linear B mi-ta) is a genus of plants in the family Lamiaceae (mint family). The species are not clearly distinct and estimates of the number of species varies from 13 to 18. Hybridization between some of the species occurs naturally. Many other hybrids, as well as numerous cultivars, are known in cultivation.
The genus has a subcosmopolitan distribution across Europe, Africa, Asia, Australia, and North America.
Mints are aromatic, almost exclusively perennial, rarely annual, herbs. They have wide-spreading underground and overground stolons and erect, square, branched stems. The leaves are arranged in opposite pairs, from oblong to lanceolate, often downy, and with a serrated margin. Leaf colors range from dark green and gray-green to purple, blue, and sometimes pale yellow. The flowers are white to purple and produced in false whorls called verticillasters. The corolla is two-lipped with four subequal lobes, the upper lobe usually the largest. The fruit is a nutlet, containing one to four seeds.
While the species that make up the Mentha genus are widely distributed and can be found in many environments, most grow best in wet environments and moist soils. Mints will grow 10–120 cm tall and can spread over an indeterminate area. Due to their tendency to spread unchecked, some mints are considered invasive.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mentha
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Botanical name: Mentha
Plant type: Herb
Sun exposure: Full Sun
Soil type: Loamy
Mint is a perennial with very fragrant, toothed leaves and tiny purple, pink, or white flowers. It has a fruity, aromatic taste. The mint family has many varieties, but it will take over your garden, so be careful where you plant it.
Planting
- For growing outdoors, plant one or two purchased plants (or one or two cuttings from a friend) about 2 feet apart in moist soil. One or two plants will easily cover the ground. Mint should grow to be 1 or 2 feet tall.
- In the garden, plant mint near cabbage and tomatoes.
- If you don’t want an entire bed of mint, buy some plants or take some cuttings from a friend and plant them in containers filled with potting mix enriched with compost. Remember to keep the plants in a sunny spot.
Care
- Minimal care is needed for mint. For outdoor plants, use a light mulch. This will help keep the soil moist and keep the leaves clean.
- For indoor plants, be sure to water them regularly to keep the soil evenly moist.
Pests
- Powdery mildew
- Rust
- Leaf spot
- Anthracnose
- Stem canker
Harvest/Storage
- Right before flowering, cut the stems 1 inch from the ground. You can harvest one mint plant two or three times in one growing season.
- You can also just pick the leaves as you need them.
- You can grow the plants indoors for fresh leaves throughout the winter. If you want to dry them, it’s best to cut the leaves right before flowering. Store the dried leaves in an airtight container.
Recommended Varieties
- Spearmint, which is the type most commonly used in cooking
- Peppermint, for a strong aroma
Recipes
Wit & Wisdom
- Mice dislike the smell of peppermint. Spread it liberally where you suspect the critters.
- To relieve a tension headache, apply a compress of mint leaves to your forehead.
How to Plant & Germinate Eggplant : Garden Seed Starting
Eggplant (Solanum melongena) is a species of nightshade commonly known in British English as aubergine and also known as melongene, garden egg, or guinea squash. It is known in South Asia, Southeast Asia and South Africa as brinjal. It bears a fruit of the same name (commonly either “eggplant” in American and Australian English or “aubergine” in British English) that is widely used in cooking, most notably as an important ingredient in dishes such as moussaka and ratatouille. As a member of the genus Solanum, it is related to both the tomato and the potato. It was originally domesticated in India and Bangladesh from the wild nightshade, the thorn or bitter apple, S. incanum.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eggplant
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Botanical name: Solanum melongena
Plant type: Vegetable
USDA Hardiness Zones: 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10
Sun exposure: Full Sun
Soil type: Sandy
Soil pH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Eggplants are short-lived perennial vegetables, but are usually cultivated as annuals. Also known as aubergines, eggplants differ mainly in size, shape and color of the fruits. Eggplants are tropical and subtropical, requiring relatively high temperatures. Related crop include tomatoes, potatoes and peppers.
Planting
- Start plants indoors 2 months before the soil warms up or buy nursery transplants just before planting.
- Place 3 to 4 inch tall seedlings 24 to 30 inches apart in well-prepared beds.
- Pinch out the terminal growing points for a bushier plant.
Care
- Stake plants over 24 inches tall.
- Water well and apply a balanced fertilizer every two weeks during the growing season.
- For bigger fruits, restrict to five or six per plant.
Pests
- Aphids
- Spider Mites
- Tomato Hornworms
- Downy and Powdery Mildew
- Eggplant fruit may not ripen properly due to cold temperatures, pest damage, or infertile soils.
Harvest/Storage
- Harvest 16 to 24 weeks after sowing when the skin of the fruit is shiny and unwrinkled.
- Cut the fruit close to the stem, but leaving about an inch of it attached.
- Eggplants can be stored for up to two weeks in humid conditions no lower than 50 degrees F.
Recommended Varieties
- ‘Black Beauty’
- ‘Easter Egg’
- ‘Little Fingers’
Recipes
Wit & Wisdom
At one time, women in the Orient used a black dye to stain their teeth a gun metal gray. The dye probably came from the same dark purple eggplant we see in the marketplace today.
http://www.almanac.com/plant/eggplant
See Also
Eggplants in containers
Genetically-modified eggplant found to be unsafe for human consumption, Environment
Genetically-modified eggplant found to be unsafe for human consumption, Environment
GMO Agriculture and Chemical Pesticides are Killing the Bees
The US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has failed to protect bees from neonicotinoid pesticides, according to a lawsuit against the agency, filed by beekeepers and environmental groups. Said Paul Towers, spokesperson for the Pesticide Action Network (PAN), one of the groups involved in the lawsuit:
“Despite our best efforts to warn the agency about the problems posed by neonicotinoids, the EPA continued to ignore the clear warning signs of an ag system in trouble.”
Lawsuit Maintains the Link Between Neonicotinoids and Bee Die Off Is ‘Crystal Clear’
Neonicotinoid pesticides are a newer class of chemicals that are applied to seeds before planting. This allows the pesticide to be taken up through the plant’s vascular system as it grows, where it is expressed in the pollen and nectar.
These insecticides are highly toxic to bees because they are systemic, water soluble, and pervasive. They get into the soil and groundwater where they can accumulate and remain for many years and present long-term toxicity to the hive as well as to other species, such as songbirds.
Neonicotinoids affect insects’ central nervous systems in ways that are cumulative and irreversible. Even minute amounts can have profound effects over time.
The disappearance of bee colonies began accelerating in the United States shortly after the EPA allowed these new insecticides on the market in the mid-2000s. The lawsuit alleges that the EPA allowed the neonicotinoids to remain on the market despite clear warning signs of a problem.
It also alleges the EPA acted outside of the law by allowing conditional registration of the pesticides, a measure that allows a product to enter the market despite the absence of certain data.
European Food Safety Authority Ruled Neonicotinoids ‘Unacceptable’
The EPA’s continued allowance of neonicotinoids becomes all the more irresponsible in light of recent findings by other government organizations. Earlier this year, for instance, the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) released a report that ruled neonicotinoid insecticides are essentially “unacceptable” for many crops.1 The European Commission asked EFSA to assess the risks associated with the use of three common neonicotinoids – clothianidin, imidacloprid and thiamethoxam – with particular focus on:
- Their acute and chronic effects on bee colony survival and development
- Their effects on bee larvae and bee behavior
- The risks posed by sub-lethal doses of the three chemicals
One of the glaring issues that EFSA came across was a widespread lack of information, with scientists noting that in some cases gaps in data made it impossible to conduct an accurate risk assessment. Still, what they did find was “a number of risks posed to bees” by the three neonicotinoid insecticides. The Authority found that when it comes to neonicotinoid exposure from residues in nectar and pollen in the flowers of treated plants:2
“…only uses on crops not attractive to honeybees were considered acceptable.”
As for exposure from dust produced during the sowing of treated seeds, the Authority ruled “a risk to honeybees was indicated or could not be excluded…” Unfortunately, neonicotinoids have become the fastest growing insecticides in the world. In the US, virtually all genetically engineered Bt corn crops are treated with neonicotinoids.
Serious Risks to Bees Already Established
One of the observed effects of these insecticides is weakening of the bee’s immune system. Forager bees bring pesticide-laden pollen back to the hive, where it’s consumed by all of the bees.
Six months later, their immune systems fail, and they fall prey to secondary, seemingly “natural” bee infections, such as parasites, mites, viruses, fungi and bacteria. Pathogens such as Varroa mites, Nosema, fungal and bacterial infections, and Israeli Acute Paralysis Virus (IAPV) are found in large amounts in honeybee hives on the verge of collapse.
Serious honeybee die-offs have been occurring around the world for the past decade but no one knows exactly why the bees are disappearing.
The phenomenon, dubbed Colony Collapse Disorder (CCD), is thought to be caused by a variety of imbalances in the environment, although agricultural practices such as the use of neonicotinoid pesticides are receiving growing attention as more research comes in. As written in the journal Nature:3
“Social bee colonies depend on the collective performance of many individual workers. Thus, although field-level pesticide concentrations can have subtle or sublethal effects at the individual level, it is not known whether bee societies can buffer such effects or whether it results in a severe cumulative effect at the colony level. Furthermore, widespread agricultural intensification means that bees are exposed to numerous pesticides when foraging, yet the possible combinatorial effects of pesticide exposure have rarely been investigated.”
This is what the Nature study set out to determine, and it was revealed that bees given access to neonicotinoid and pyrethroid pesticides were adversely affected in numerous ways, including:
- Fewer adult worker bees emerged from larvae
- A higher proportion of foragers failed to return to the nest
- A higher death rate among worker bees
- An increased likelihood of colony failure
The researchers said:
“Here we show that chronic exposure of bumble bees to two pesticides (neonicotinoid and pyrethroid) at concentrations that could approximate field-level exposure impairs natural foraging behavior and increases worker mortality leading to significant reductions in brood development and colony success.
We found that worker foraging performance, particularly pollen collecting efficiency, was significantly reduced with observed knock-on effects for forager recruitment, worker losses and overall worker productivity. Moreover, we provide evidence that combinatorial exposure to pesticides increases the propensity of colonies to fail.”
Why the Food Supply Could Be Dependent on Urgent Action by the EPA
The EPA acknowledges that “pesticide poisoning” may be one factor leading to colony collapse disorder,4 yet they have been slow to act to protect bees from this threat. The current lawsuit may help spur them toward more urgent action, which is desperately needed as the food supply hangs in the balance.
There are about 100 crop species that provide 90 percent of food globally. Of these, 71 are pollinated by bees.5 In the US alone, a full one-third of the food supply depends on pollination from bees. Apple orchards, for instance, require one colony of bees per acre to be adequately pollinated. So if bee colonies continue to be devastated, major food shortages could result.
There is also concern that the pesticides could be impacting other pollinators as well, including bumblebees, hoverflies, butterflies, moths and others, which could further impact the environment.
Four Steps to Help Protect the Bees
If you would like to learn more about the economic, political and ecological implications of the worldwide disappearance of the honeybee, check out the documentary film Vanishing of the Bees. If you’d like to get involved, here are four actions you can take to help preserve and protect our honeybees:
- Support organic farmers and shop at local farmer’s markets as often as possible. You can “vote with your fork” three times a day. (When you buy organic, you are making a statement by saying “no” to GMOs and toxic pesticides!)
- Cut the use of toxic chemicals in your house and on your lawn, and use only organic, all-natural forms of pest control.
- Better yet, get rid of your lawn altogether and plant a garden or other natural habitat. Lawns offer very little benefit for the environment. Both flower and vegetable gardens provide excellent natural honeybee habitats.
- Become an amateur beekeeper. Having a hive in your garden requires only about an hour of your time per week, benefits your local ecosystem, and you can enjoy your own honey!
Bell Peppers Plant Care Guide ~ Seeds to garden ~ How to
Botanical name: Capsicum annuum
Plant type: Vegetable
USDA Hardiness Zones: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11
Sun exposure: Full Sun
Soil type: Loamy
Soil pH: Neutral
Peppers are a tender, warm-season crop. They resist most pests and offer something for everyone: spicy, sweet or hot, and a variety of colors, shapes and sizes. For this page, we will focus on sweet bell peppers.
Planting
- Start seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before last spring frost date.
- The temperature must be at least 70 degrees F for seed germination, so keep them in a warm area for the best and fastest results.
- Start pepper seeds three to a pot, and thin out the weakest seedling. Let the remaining two pepper plants spend their entire lives together as one plant. The leaves of two plants help protect peppers against sunscald, and the yield is often twice as good as two segregated plants.
- Begin to harden off plants about 10 days before transplanting.
- A week before transplanting, introduce fertilizer or aged compost in your garden soil.
- After the danger of frost has passed, transplant seedlings outdoors, 18 to 24 inches apart (but keep paired plants close to touching.)
- Soil should be at least 65 degrees F, peppers will not survive transplanting at temps any colder. Northern gardeners can warm up the soil by covering it with black plastic.
- Put two or three match sticks in the hole with each plant, along with about a teaspoon of fertilizer. They give the plants a bit of sulfur, which they like.
Care
- Soil should be well-drained, but maintain adequate moisture either with mulch or plastic covering.
- Water one to two inches per week, but remember peppers are extremely heat sensitive. If you live in a warm or desert climate, watering everyday may be necessary.
- Fertilize after the first fruit set.
- Weed carefully around plants.
- If necessary, support plants with cages or stakes to prevent bending. Try commercially available cone-shaped wire tomato cages. They may not be ideal for tomatoes, but they are just the thing for peppers.
- For larger fruit, spray the plants with a solution of one tablespoon of Epsom salts in a gallon of water, once when it begins to bloom, and once ten days later.
Pests
- Aphids
- Flea Beetles
- Cucumber Mosaic Virus
- Blossom End Rot appears as a soft, sunken area which turns darker in color.
- Pollination can be reduced in temperatures below 60F and above 90F.
- Too much nitrogen will reduce fruit from setting.
Harvest/Storage
- Harvest as soon as peppers reach desired size.
- The longer bell peppers stay on the plant, the more sweet they become and the greater their Vitamin C content.
- Use a sharp knife or scissors to cut peppers clean off the plant for the least damage.
- Peppers can be refrigerated in plastic bags for up to 10 days after harvesting.
- Bell peppers can be dried, and we would recommend a conventional oven for the task. Wash, core, and seed the peppers. Cut into one-half-inch strips. Steam for about ten minutes, then spread on a baking sheet. Dry in the oven at 140 degrees F (or the lowest possible temperature) until brittle, stirring occasionally and switching tray positions. When the peppers are cool, put them in bags or storage containers.
Recommended Varieties
Look for varieties that ripen to their full color quickly; fully mature peppers are the most nutritious—and tastier, too!
- Green to Red: ‘Lady Bell’, ‘Gypsy,’ ‘Bell Boy,’ ‘Lipstick’
- Yellow: ‘Golden California Wonder’
Recipes
Wit & Wisdom
The popular green and red bell peppers that we see in supermarkets are actually the same thing; the red peppers have just been allowed to mature on the plant longer, changing color and also gaining a higher content of Vitamin C.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
See Also
How to Grow Peppers in a Container
Tomatillo (Physalis philadelphica) ~ Tomatillo Plant Care Guide
The tomatillo (Physalis philadelphica) is a plant of the nightshade family, related to the cape gooseberry, bearing small, spherical and green or green-purple fruit of the same name. Tomatillos originated in Mexico, and are a staple of that country’s cuisine. Tomatillos are grown as annuals throughout the Western Hemisphere. Tomatillos are delicious when fried, boiled and steamed.
The tomatillo fruit is surrounded by an inedible, paper-like husk formed from the calyx. As the fruit matures, it fills the husk and can split it open by harvest. The husk turns brown, and the fruit can be several colors when ripe, including yellow, red, green, or even purple. Tomatillos are the key ingredient in fresh and cooked Mexican and Central-American green sauces. The freshness and greenness of the husk are quality criteria. Fruit should be firm and bright green, as the green color and tart flavor are the main culinary contributions of the fruit. Purple and red-ripening cultivars often have a slight sweetness, unlike the green- and yellow-ripening cultivars, and are therefore somewhat more suitable for fruit-like uses like jams and preserves. Like their close relatives cape gooseberries, tomatillos have a high pectin content. Another characteristic is they tend to have a varying degree of a sappy sticky coating, mostly when used on the green side out of the husk.
Tomatillo plants are highly self-incompatible, and two or more plants are needed for proper pollination. Thus, isolated tomatillo plants rarely set fruit. Research conducted by Kamla Kant Pandey in 1957 supports this fact. Ripe tomatillos will keep refrigerated for about two weeks. They will keep even longer if the husks are removed and the fruits are placed in sealed plastic bags stored in the refrigerator. They may also be frozen whole or sliced.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tomatillo
Growing tomatillos is very similar to growing tomatoes, as a cage or trellis is required for the vine to climb, they are started by the seed in warm soil, and they thrive in full, hot sun. Grow a tomatillo vine to use in cooking with helpful advice from a sustainable gardener in this free video on gardening.
Read more: http://www.ehow.com/video_4755723_grow-tomatillos.html#ixzz2zr5uOmAW
Tomatillo: A Growing Guide
Learn how to grow these amazing husked vegetables—and how to make a tasty green salsa.
http://www.organicgardening.com/learn-and-grow/tomatillo-growing-guide
Transplanting Your Seedlings
If you started vegetable plants indoors from seeds, here is advice on transplanting your seedlings.
- Check our Planting by the Moon’s Phase calendar.
- Be sure the plants harden off; that is, gradually get used to unsheltered life outdoors.
- During their last week indoors, withhold fertilizer and water less often.
- 7 to 10 days before transplanting, set the seedlings outdoors in dappled shade that is protected from winds for a few hours each day, gradually increasing their exposure to full sun and windy conditions.
- Keep the soil moist at all times during the hardening-off period. Dry air and spring breezes can result in rapid transpiration.
- If possible, transplant on overcast days or in the early morning.
- Set transplants into loose, well-aerated soil that will capture and retain moisture, drain well, and allow easy penetration by seedling roots. See when soil is ready for planting.
- Soak the soil around new seedlings immediately after transplanting.
- Spread mulch to reduce soil-moisture loss.
- To ensure that phosphorus—which promotes strong root development—is available in the root zone of new transplants, mix two tablespoons of a 15-30-15 starter fertilizer into a gallon of water (one tablespoon for vining crops such as melons and cucumbers), and give each seedling a cup of the solution after transplanting.
- Anything that raises soil temperature will help plants adjust to the shock of cold ground. Try raised planting beds and plastic mulch to boost soil temperature.
Related Articles
http://www.almanac.com/content/transplanting-your-seedlings
Grow your groceries
Bok choy, Pak choi, Bok choi (Chinese Cabbage) ~ Brassica rapa var. chinensis Plant Care Guide
Growing Guide
http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/homegardening/scene0bdf.html
Pak choy
Vegetable (Cool Season) – Cabbage Family
Also known as Bok choy, Pak choi, Bok choi
Brassica rapa var. chinensis
Brassicaceae Family
No matter how you spell it, pak choy’s mild flavor is a must for stir fries. It’s not as finicky about heat and cold as Chinese cabbage, and the striking white petioles and green leaves make it a must for edible landscaping.
Site Characteristics
Sunlight:
- full sun
- part shade
Partial shade can help prevent summer crops from bolting.Soil conditions:
- requires well-drained soil
Prefers well-drained, fertile soil high in organic matter, pH 6.0 to 7.5. Can tolerate slightly alkaline soil. Needs plentiful, consistent moisture.
Plant Traits
Lifecycle: annual
Biennial grown as an annual.
Ease-of-care: moderately difficult
Spring crops require good timing and careful pest control. Direct-seeded fall crops are easier to grow.
Height: 1 to 2 feet
Spread: 1 to 1.5 feet
Foliage texture: medium
Shape: cushion, mound or clump
Special Considerations
Tolerates:
- frost – Spring crops may bolt prematurely if young plants are exposed to frost or a week of nighttime temperatures below 50 F. Wait until after last frost date to direct seed or transplant out.
Special characteristics:
- not native to North America – Not known in the wild. Probably developed from selections of oil seed varieties in China about 2,000 years ago.
Special uses:
- edible landscaping
Growing Information
How to plant:
Propagate by seed
Germination temperature: 50 F to 80 F
Days to emergence: 4 to 7
Seed can be saved 4 years.
Maintenance and care:
While not as sensitive to heat and cold as Chinese cabbage, spring crops may bolt prematurely if young plants are exposed to frost or a week of nighttime temperatures below 50 F. Wait until after last frost date to direct seed or transplant out.Start transplants inside 4 to 6 weeks before last frost date. Transplant 6 to 12 inches apart in rows 18 to 30 inches apart. Use the closer spacings for smaller varieties.
Plant direct-seeded spring crops ¼ to ½ inch deep and about 1 inch apart in rows 18 to 30 inches apart. Thin to 6- to 12-inch spacings. Use thinnings in salads.
For fall crops, direct seed ¼ to ½ inch deep in rows 18 to 30 inches apart in summer. Thin to 6- to 12- inch spacings. Or set transplants out at 6- to 12-inch spacings 4 to 6 weeks before first frost.
Mulch fall crops heavily and provide adequate moisture to avoid premature bolting.
Varieties
Browse bok choy/pak choy varieties at our Vegetable Varieties for Gardeners website.“Baby” varieties grow just 6 inches tall while others may reach nearly 2 feet. Some are more tolerant of heat and cold than others.
Varieties recommended for New York include:
Mei Qing Choi — hybrid
Tropical Delight — hybrid
Two Seasons — hybrid
China Pride — hybrid
Jade Pagoda — hybrid
Dynasty — hybrid
What the Heck Is Bok Choy?
by Farmers’ Almanac Staff | Monday, March 22nd, 2010 | From: Food and Recipes
Bok choy is one of many names given to a popular variety of Chinese cabbage. Also called Chinensis, Chinese chard, Chinese mustard, celery mustard, and spoon cabbage, among other names, bok choy is a smooth, dark green, leafy vegetable with pale succulent stems.
http://www.farmersalmanac.com/food/2010/03/22/what-the-heck-is-bok-choy/
How to Grow Bok Choy Without Bolting
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/grow-bok-choy-bolting-21930.html
What Are the Health Benefits of Bok Choy
Bok choy is a type of Chinese cabbage that doesn’t look like the typical cabbage. Instead, it has dark green leaves connected to white stalks. One cup has just 9 calories and barely a trace of fat, yet delivers protein, dietary fiber and almost all the essential vitamins and minerals. This makes bok choy a nutrient-dense food that offers several health benefits.
http://healthyeating.sfgate.com/health-benefits-bok-choy-1551.html
Native gardening 101 ~ Turn Your Yard Into a Haven for Wildlife!
What is a Naturalized Garden?
Throughout many regions of the United States there is a growing movement toward creating naturalized gardens. So, what exactly is a naturalized garden?
There are many names for a naturalized garden, from nature-scape, heritage, ecological to native landscaping, but the principal remains the same. A naturalized garden is a landscaping technique that incorporates local native plants into the design and architecture. This creates a feeling of being in the open and wild areas that surround the region of the garden.
Naturalized gardens come in all shapes and sizes, depending on where the garden is located and what approach the landscaper has taken. Most commonly, it will incorporate shrubbery, flowering plants and natives that are of interest to the eye and can be created either with sparse and meticulous lines or with bountiful, flowing plants that seem to lean right up next to each other in a lush landscape.
In either approach, naturalized gardens will always incorporate native plants that thrive in the specific region they are planted in. This garden will be lower maintenance, less invasive to the surrounding areas, and typically bring along the benefits of planting indigenously such as water conservation or wild life ecology. When a naturalized garden is created, the local wild life will be attracted to the area of interest, whether that be hummingbirds or butterflies.
Naturalized gardens tend to have harmonious plants, less maintenance and water consumption, a greater life cycle and a more active ecology than their counterpart gardens. Of course, part of the real beauty of a naturalized garden is that no two will ever be alike. Depending on the region in which your garden will exist, you can have lush, thick bushes and flowering native plants that will attract the eye whimsically, or you can have linear, architectural lines that create interest in a modern and uncomplicated way. Because of the nature of the plants involved in indigenous gardens, your wallet may also thank you. The plants that are incorporated into this garden have evolved to thrive and will live a longer, healthier and more vibrant life than counterparts that are not natives. This in turn, will give your naturalized garden a life cycle that can go on for years and years without the need to replant. If that isn’t enough, the savings on your water bill may also come in to play, depending on the plants that thrive in your environment.
Naturalized gardens create a feeling of relaxed plantings and flowers that seem to work harmoniously, and effortlessly in their native environment. They work with the local ecology and water supply to conserve and thrive in all types of environments while creating a balanced and inclusive feel to any landscape.
http://www.lowwatergardening.com/what-is-a-naturalized-garden/#sthash.NYIkxtoS.dpuf
Native gardening 101
Protect native biodiversity by greening your garden
By introducing native plants and some strategic design features to your garden, you can provide patches of natural habitat for many species. A well-designed backyard can offer birds and pollinators like butterflies, more living space, feeding opportunities and the safety of cover from predators.
By enhancing and restoring natural elements in your garden, you’ll make the urban landscape more wildlife-friendly.
Where to begin?
Before you start, find out what kind of soils and natural plant communities used to exist in your area. This will give you a better idea of the groupings of native plant species that should thrive in your garden. A number of good websites exist that will help you identify plants that are native to your area.
Think too about the desired long-term look and feel of your backyard. Are you more drawn towards an open, sunny space that could be filled with a meadow or prairie garden, or is a shaded woodland garden more to your liking?
If you’re planting trees, consider their mature size and whether they will still be suitable for the space in 20, 40 or even 60 years. Consider especially their position relative to overhead wires and nearby buildings. In addition to the plants, plan for other features such as a small pond with trickling water to attract birds and perhaps even a few frogs, or a small brush pile to provide cover for small birds such as winter wrens as they migrate through neigbourhoods in spring and fall.
Consider what season you most enjoy spending time in your garden. For example, if you spend time away in July and August at a summer cottage, you may want to avoid planting species that flower while you are away, leaving you with little colour to enjoy on your return. On the other hand, if you entertain in your backyard all summer long, summer flowering plants may be a good choice. Although a naturalized garden may need less work than a more traditional garden, until it is well established you’ll need to give it some maintenance, including careful watering in times of drought.
Once you’ve considered these questions, you’re ready to begin sourcing your plants.
Sourcing plants
Start by asking garden centre staff about where their plants are grown. Many nurseries import plants from hundreds or even thousands of kilometres away. While they may carry the species you are looking for, the selection (if imported) may not be hardy to your backyard conditions. It’s best to find a nursery that can guarantee that its plants have been grown locally so that they are more likely to be hardy to the conditions in your yard.
Once you have found a garden centre that sells native plants, you should also ask the garden centre whether the plants you have selected were propagated under cultivation, and not dug out of the wild.
Maintaining your garden
Although a naturalized garden may be less formal than a manicured garden, they’re not necessarily maintenance-free. If done well, a naturalized garden may require less watering and be able to survive periods of drought more easily. Native plants are also often better adapted to the local climate and exhibit a higher tolerance to pests than many garden ornamentals. As a result, naturalized gardens can often thrive without the use of pesticides. In fact, a naturalized garden might even attract “beneficial” bugs that are predators of other pest species.
But if invasive weeds are not removed on a regular basis, they will compete with the native plants in your garden and can spread to nearby natural areas. You may even need to manage some of the more aggressive native species or else they can take over the garden. Although nature may thrive without human intervention, your yard exists on a much smaller scale and isn’t operating entirely as it would in nature. Not unlike the work of NCC’s stewardship staff on properties across Canada, you may need to carefully manage your garden to ensure that its diversity is restored and maintained over time.
You therefore need to assist some of the conditions for naturalized plants to thrive in, especially through weeding and watering. Urban neighbourhoods often have significantly lower water tables than in natural landscapes, so it’s important to water plants in extended dry spells.
Reaping the rewards
A naturalized garden will almost certainly increase the number of wildlife sightings in your backyard. Plants with a high nectar content attract butterflies and hummingbirds, and some native plants that produce berries in late summer or early fall will attract forest songbirds on their southward migration. A well-placed small pond feature with trickling water may attract both birds (who will key in to woodland stream sounds) and amphibians such as green frogs (which disperse across the landscape in summer).
A naturalized backyard can also be fun for kids, who naturally seem to love exploring wetlands and creeks, getting muddy and dirty and discovering new bugs and plants right in their own backyard.
These gardens and the wildlife that visits them can relly help get kids excited about nature.
Get your lawn off grass
Watch this video, entitled “Get Your Lawn off Grass.” Bill Freedman, NCC volunteer and a former member of NCC’s Board of Directors, describes how he naturalized his urban garden.
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Get Wild Go Native ! Do it on the Rooftop 🙂 @ Auntie Dogma’s here
Garden to Attract More Pollinators @ Auntie Dogma’s here
Turn Your Yard Into a Haven for Wildlife!
How to Attract Butterflies to Your Garden
The garlic said to the onion, “You Stink” ~ Everything about Planting Garlic ~ Health Benefits
Allium sativum, commonly known as garlic, is a species in the onion genus, Allium.
Its close relatives include the onion, shallot, leek, chive, and rakkyo. With a history of human use of over 7,000 years, garlic is native to central Asia, and has long been a staple in the Mediterranean region, as well as a frequent seasoning in Asia, Africa, and Europe. It was known to Ancient Egyptians, and has been used for both culinary and medicinal purposes.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Garlic
Botanical name: Allium sativum
Plant type: Vegetable
USDA Hardiness Zones: 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8
Sun exposure: Full Sun
Soil type: Loamy
Soil pH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Garlic is easy to grow and produces numerous bulbs after a long growing season. It is frost tolerant. Beyond its intense flavor and culinary uses, “the stinking rose” is good in the garden as an insect repellent and has been used for centuries as a home remedy.
Planting
- Garlic can be planted in the spring as soon as the ground can be worked, but fall planting is recommended for most gardeners. Plant in the fall and you’ll find that your bulbs are bigger and more flavorful when you harvest the next summer.
- In areas that get a hard frost, plant garlic 6 to 8 weeks before that frost. In southern areas, February or March is a better time to plant.
- Break apart cloves from bulb a few days before planting, but keep the papery husk on each individual clove.
- Plant cloves about one month before the ground freezes.
- Do not plant cloves from the grocery store. They may be unsuited varieties for your area, and most are treated to make their shelf life longer, making them harder to grow. Instead, get cloves from a mail order seed company or a local nursery.
- Ensure soil is well-drained with plenty of organic matter. Select a sunny spot.
- Place cloves 4 inches apart and 2 inches deep, in their upright position (the wide root side facing down and pointed end facing up).
- In the spring, as warmer temperatures come, shoots will emerge through the ground.
Care
- Northern gardeners should mulch heavily with straw for overwintering.
- Mulch should be removed in the spring after the threat of frost has passed. (Young shoots can’t survive in temps below 20°F on their own. Keep them under cover.)
- Cut off any flower shoots that emerge in spring. These may decrease bulb size.
- Weeds should not be a problem until the spring. Weed as needed.
- Garlic requires adequate levels of nitrogen. Fertilize accordingly, especially if you see yellowing leaves.
- Water every 3 to 5 days during bulbing (mid-May through June).
- A note on garlic scapes: Some folks love cooking the scapes (the tops of hardneck garlic). Whether you trim the scapes or let them keep growing is your preference. We like to stir fry scapes the way we cook green beans—similar with a spicy kick!
Pests
Garlic has very few problems with pests in the garden (in fact, its a natural pest repellent!), and also very few problems with the diseases that plague other veggies. White Rot is one concern, but you should also keep an eye out for the same pests that plague onions.
- White Rot is a fungus that may attack garlic in cool weather. Not much can be done to control or prevent that problem except rotating your crops and cleaning up the area after harvesting. The spores can live in the soil for many years. The fungus affects the base of the leaves and roots.
Harvest/Storage
- Harvest time depends on when you plant, but the clue is to look for yellow tops. Harvest when the tops begin to yellow and fall over, before they are completely dry.
- In Northern climates, harvesting will probably be in late July or August. In Southern climates, it will depend on your planting date.
- Check the bulb size and wrapper quality; you don’t want the wrapper to disintegrate. Dig too early and the bulb will be immature. Discontinue watering.
- To harvest, carefully lift the bulbs with a spade or garden fork. Pull the plants, carefully brush off the soil, and let them cure in an airy, shady spot for two weeks. We hang them upside down on a string in bunches of 4 to 6. Make sure all sides get good air ciculation.
- The bulbs are cured and ready to store when the wrappers are dry and papery and the roots are dry. The root crown should be hard, and the cloves can be cracked apart easily.
- Once the garlic bulbs are dry, you can store them. Remote any dirt and trim off any roots or leaves. Keep the wrappers on—but remote the dirtiest wrappers.
- Garlic bulbs may be stored individually with the tops removed, or the dried tops may be braided together to make a garlic braid to hang in the kitchen or storage room.
- Bulbs should be stored in a cool (40 degrees F), dark, dry place, and can be kept in the same way for several months. Don’t store in your basement if it’s moist!
- The flavor will increase as the bulbs are dried.
- If you plan on planting garlic again next season, save some of your largest, best-formed bulbs to plant again in the fall.
Recommended Varieties
There are three types of varieties of garlic: Softneck, Stiffneck, and Great-headed (Elephant). Most types are about 90 days to harvest.
- Softneck varieties, like their name suggests, have necks that stay soft after harvest, and therefore are the types that you see braided. Especially recommended for those in warmer climes, as it is less winter-hardy than other types. Strong, intense flavor. Recommended varieties: ‘Persian Star’, ‘Mother of Pearl’
- Stiffneck varieties grow one ring of cloves around a stem, there is not a layer of cloves as there are in softneck varieties. They are extremely cold hardy, but do not store as well or long as other varieties. Flavor is more mild than softnecks. Recommended Variety: ‘Carpathian’
- Great-headed varieties are not recommended. They are less hardy, and more closely related to leeks than other varieties. Their flavor is more like onion than traditional garlic. Bulbs and cloves are large, with about 4 cloves to a bulb.
Recipes
- Broccoli-Garlic Saute
- Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes
- Garlic and Wine Scallops
- Garlic Fries
- Cranberry-Teriyaki Chicken on Garlic Bok Choy
Wit & Wisdom
A nickel will get you on the subway, but garlic will get you a seat.
–Yiddish proverb
Rub raw garlic on an insect bite to relieve the sting or itch.
http://www.almanac.com/plant/garlic
more here
Garlic Planting Guide ~ Garlic in Containers @ Auntie’s Here 😉
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Garlic is a wonderful and powerful savory addition. It jazzes up many recipes and also contains healing properties. Truly fresh garlic is pungent, white, hard and full of a juicy liquid. I believe that much of the garlic that is sold in stores has gone past its peak (rubbery or soft) and has lost much of its medicinal value. One way to maintain not only its flavor but also its healing powers is to dry it and make it into garlic powder.
http://www.almanac.com/blog/celestes-garden/making-garlic-powder
Six reasons garlic is an amazing healing superfood
Learn more: http://www.naturalnews.com/041476_garlic_superfood_natural_healing.html#ixzz2xy2Jf7e1
How to Deter Mosquitoes and Other Bugs
They’re here! With the early spring weather, a bumper crop of blood-thirsty black flies and mosquitoes have appeared, too! All insects have a purpose but some are awfully annoying to humans! Here’s how to deter mosquitoes and other bugswhile you enjoy the great outdoors.
We all know about store-brand products, so we’re going to tell you how to fend off those pesky insects with safe, non-toxic repellents.
http://www.almanac.com/content/how-deter-mosquitoes-and-other-bugs
Okra Plant Care Guide ~ Health Benefits
Okra (US /ˈoʊkrə/ or UK /ˈɒkrə/; Abelmoschus esculentus Moench), known in many English-speaking countries as ladies’ fingers, bhindi, bamia, or gumbo, is a flowering plant in the mallow family. It is valued for its edible green seed pods. The geographical origin of okra is disputed, with supporters of South Asian, Ethiopian and West African origins. The plant is cultivated in tropical, subtropical and warm temperate regions around the world.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Okra
Botanical name: Abelmoschus esculentus
Plant type: Vegetable
Sun exposure: Full Sun
Soil type: Loamy
Bloom time: Summer
Okra is traditionally a southern U.S. plant that thrives in warm weather. It is easy to grow and use and looks great throughout the growing season due to its beautiful flowers. Okra is also rich in vitamin A and low in calories.
Planting
- You can start okra seeds indoors in peat pots under full light 3 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost date.
- You can also start okra directly in your garden 3 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost date as long as you cover the plants with a cold frame or grow tunnel until the weather warms up. Make sure that the covering is 2 to 3 feet tall so that the plants have room to grow.
- If you do not start your okra plants early, wait until there is stable warm weather. You can plant okra in the garden when the soil has warmed to 65° to 70°F.
- Plant okra in fertile, well-drained soil in full light about 1/2 to 1 inch deep and 12 to 18 inches apart. You can soak the seeds overnight in tepid water to help speed up germination.
- If you are planting okra transplants, be sure to space them 1 to 2 feet apart to give them ample room to grow.
- Okra plants are tall, so be sure to space out the rows 3 to 4 feet apart.
Care
- Eliminate weeds when the plants are young, then mulch heavily to prevent more weeds from growing. Apply a layer of mulch 4 to 8 inches high. You should also side-dress the plants with 10-10-10, aged manure, or rich compost (1/2 pound per 25 feet of row). You could also apply a balanced liquid fertilizer monthly.
- When the seedlings are about 3 inches tall, thin the plants so that they are 10 to 18 inches apart.
- Keep the plants well watered throughout the summer months; 1 inch of water per week is ideal, but use more if you are in a hot, arid region.
- After the first harvest, remove the lower leaves to help speed up production.
Pests
- Aphids
- Corn earworms
- Stinkbugs
- Fusarium wilt
Harvest/Storage
- The first harvest will be ready about 2 months after planting.
- Harvest the okra when its about 2 to 3 inches long. Harvest it every other day.
- Cut the stem just above the cap with a knife; if the stem is too hard to cut, the pod is probably too old and should be tossed.
- Wear gloves and long sleeves when cutting the okra because most varieties are covered with tiny spines that will irritate your skin, unless you have a spineless variety. Do not worry: this irritation will not happen when you eat them.
- To store okra, put the uncut and uncooked pods into freezer bags and keep them in the freezer. You can then prepare the okra any way you like throughout the winter months.
Recommended Varieties
- ‘Annie Oakley’, which takes 52 days to mature and has spineless pods. It grows to about 5 feet tall.
- ‘Park’s Candelabra Branching’, which is a base-branching okra plant. This type of branching makes picking easy.
- ‘Louisiana Green Velvet’ is good for big areas; it is vigorous and its plants grow to be 6 feet tall. It is also smooth and spineless.
Recipes
http://www.almanac.com/plant/okra
Health benefits of okra
Thursday, September 19, 2013 by: Yanjun
(NaturalNews) Okra is available the entire year in the southern lands, but for Americans, it is only available during summer. The appearance of okra is comparable to that of a grooved pepper, and it belongs to the same genus as both cotton and hibiscus. Food experts said that the most likely origin of this vegetable is Africa, and it was transported from there to the United States about 300 years ago.
Learn more: http://www.naturalnews.com/042116_okra_health_benefits_nutritional_foods.html#ixzz2xfDKW3hg
Six Ways to Build a Better Urban Garden
From corporate campuses to thousands of schoolyards and backyards across the country, from hospital grounds to the White House lawn, interest in edible gardens has exploded over the last decade. For good reason. Growing our own food, when done by many people, is part of the solution to some of society’s most pernicious problems-food safety, diet-related illness epidemics, food waste, food insecurity, disaster response, environmental degradation and even climate change itself.
But are the gardens that are sprouting up throughout our cities and counties built to last?
Many garden programs throughout the country suffer from one or all of the following challenges: insufficient and poorly handled funding resources, ego-driven politics, lack of authentic gardening and farming knowledge, dreamy idealism, and dysfunctional management.
Our research at Grow Your Lunch shows that a garden program can be built and sustained with a relatively modest investment. What these programs need is consistent management combined with expert mentorship.
There’s no doubt that the intentions of gardening programs are good at their core. Through gardening, cooking and eating together, communities are unified across social, generational, political and economic differences. In remembering our food traditions, we preserve not only the genetic diversity of our food crops and farm animals, but also the cultural diversity which weaves together the fabric of our heritage as Americans.
Read the Full Article
http://www.organicconsumers.org/articles/article_26733.cfm
Crocus vernus flower time lapse ~ Crocus Plant Care Guide
Crocus ~ Plant Care Guide
A sure sign of spring, crocuses have low-growing, colorful, cup-shaped flowers that are a welcome sight in garden beds and lawns.
About This Plant
Mass plantings of colorful crocuses herald the start of spring, sometimes poking their flowers right up through the snow. Because the plants flower so early, crocuses adapt well to planting in lawns and will multiply over time to cover large areas. Select varieties that mature at different times to extend the bloom season. Flower colors include blue, violet, striped, yellow, and white, and height ranges from 3 to 6 inches. While most crocus flower in spring, the saffron crocus is a fall-flowering crocus that is planted in spring.
Read in Full Here @ Auntie Dogma’s
Kohlrabi Plant Care Guide ~ Cool Season Vegetables
Kohlrabi (German turnip or turnip cabbage) (Brassica oleracea Gongylodes group) (Olkopi in Assamese and Bengali) (Monji Haak in Kashmiri) is an annual vegetable, and is a low, stout cultivar of cabbage. Kohlrabi can be eaten raw as well as cooked.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kohlrabi
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Kohlrabi
One of the oddest looking vegetables you can grow is kohlrabi. With its large, edible, bulbous stem sitting underneath big, cabbage-like leaves, it almost looks like some alien spacecraft that landed by accident in the middle of the vegetable garden! But the enlarged stem of this cabbage family member- its name means “cabbage turnip” in German- has a sweet, mild flavor that has been likened to a cross between a radish and a cucumber. It can be enjoyed crisp and raw, steamed, stir-fried or added to soups and stews. And even the leaves are edible- you cook them as you would kale.
About This Plant
The bulbous stem of the kohlrabi plant may be white, pale green or purple, depending on the variety. ‘Early Purple Vienna’ and ‘Early White Vienna’ are open-pollinated heirloom varieties. Some of the newer hybrid varieties are more heat and cold tolerant than these older varieties. Pale green ‘Winner’ and purple ‘Kolibri’ are heat tolerant selections that mature quickly.
Site Selection
Select a site with full sun and well-drained soil. Prepare the garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. Adjust the soil pH to 6.0 to 6.8.
Planting Instructions
Kohlrabi is a quick-maturing plant whose harvest season can be extended with successive plantings in spring and fall. For a spring crop, sow seeds about 4 weeks before the last frost date, making successive sowings while the weather stays cool. Plant in wide rows or beds, sowing seeds ½ inch deep and 3 inches apart. After the seedlings are a couple of inches tall, thin to a final spacing of 6 to 8 inches.
This fast-growing vegetable also makes a good fall crop in many parts of the country. Sow seeds directly in the garden 8 to 10 weeks before the first expected fall frost date. In warm winter areas (Zones 9 and 10), you can make repeat sowings during the fall for harvest in the winter and early spring.
Care
Be sure to keep the soil consistently moist; mulching is helpful. Your kohlrabi plants will appreciate a dose of fish emulsion fertilizer when they are about a month old. Floating row covers will keep away many of the pests that trouble members of the cabbage family, such as cabbage loopers and cabbageworms.
Harvesting
The best advice about harvesting kohlrabi is not to wait too long. Most varieties are ready for harvesting just 6 to 7 weeks from planting and are the most tender and flavorful when the bulbs are 2 to 4 inches in diameter. Fall crops that ripen in cool weather don’t get woody as readily and can be picked a little larger, up to 5 inches.
http://www.garden.org/plantguide/?q=show&id=3326
Kohlrabi ~ Vegetable (Cool Season) – Cabbage Family @ Explore Cornell Here
Food Tank by the Numbers: Small Farmers Are Nourishing the World By Sarah Small
Food Tank, March, 2014
Straight to the Source
For Related Articles and More Information, Please Visit OCA’s All About Organics Page, Environment and Climate Resource Center Page and our Farm Issues Page.
Equally important as the goal of feeding the world is the necessity of growing more nutrient-dense crops. Unfortunately improving nutrition has, ironically, not been an explicit goal of agricultural strategies for global food security over the past five decades. But there has been a heightened interest in recent years in using agriculture to maximize nutritional impact. xviii Initiatives such as the Scaling Up Nutrition movement and the 1,000 Days Coalition are drawing attention to the importance of nutrition, particularly for pregnant women and children, and successfully integrating nutrition into the broader food security conversation. The social entrepreneurship organization Ashoka Changemakers is also rallying around the importance of nutrition by launching the Nutrients for All: Vitality for People and the Planet initiative – innovators, social entrepreneurs, and thought leaders are creating projects and initiatives to tackle malnutrition and obesity.
All farmers can have a direct impact on nutrition through the crops that they choose to grow and consume, as well as through post-harvest and preparation methods. Indeed, increasing the production of nutrient-dense foods on family farms has been identified by Action contre la Faim, a French NGO, as a key practice for increasing nutrition and food security, particularly locally adapted varieties rich in protein and micronutrients. FAO has noted that “specific interventions aimed at diversifying what farmers produce and what food households have access to (e.g. through home gardens or raising small animals) can contribute to better nutrition.” xix
Analysis from FAO also reveals that most of the smallholder farms that have been successful in increasing consumption of nutrient-dense foods have done so through the production of diverse crops, as opposed to producing a single crop. xx Home gardens exemplify this success, providing a diversity of crops, a balanced diet, and high nutritional value to households. Traditionally, in many parts of the world, women are responsible for managing the family gardens. xxi Empowering women to choose varieties of nutrient-dense crops for their gardens can have a critical and direct impact on improving nutrition. Home gardens can also safeguard biological diversity, including many nutritious crops, as well as birds, insects, and other wildlife. xxii
Smallholders can also contribute to the quality of the food supply through proper post-harvest activities. In developing countries in Eastern and Southern Africa, 13.5 percent of the total value of grain produced is lost due to during poor post-harvest and processing practices, due in no small part to government investment in infrastructure and lack of access to markets. xxiii Inadequate handling and storage can also cause the loss of valuable micronutrients. In Africa alone, enough grain is lost each year to feed 48 million people. xxiv By decreasing nutrient losses in the post-harvest and storage phases, there is enormous potential for smallholders to maximize nutrient density for their families and communities.
>>> Read the Full Article
http://www.organicconsumers.org/articles/article_29508.cfm
Permaculture: A Healthy Sustainable Alternative to Big-Agri
March 12, 2014 ~ David Ring –LocalOrg Permaculture is a combination of two words, permanent culture, which evolved from a previous and narrower definition, Permanent agriculture. It is a way of life which nurtures and propagates a healthy and sustainable lifestyle, guided by its three tenets: earth care, people care, and fair share.
Permaculture, according to one of its founders, Bill Mollison, is:
“…a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted and thoughtful observation rather than protracted and thoughtless labor; and of looking at plants and animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single product system.”
Read in Full Here!
http://localorg.blogspot.com/2014/03/permaculture-healthy-sustainable.html
Pruning Perennial Herbs ~ Spring
P. Allen Smith explains how to prune perennial herbs on the brink of spring.
Green Patch: Perennial Pruning
http://www.motherearthliving.com/gardening/green-patch-perennial-pruning.aspx
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