Chicory ~ Cichorium intybus ~ How to Grow and Benefits
Common chicory, Cichorium intybus, is a somewhat woody, perennial herbaceous plant usually with bright blue flowers, rarely white orpink. Many varieties are cultivated for salad leaves, chicons (blanched buds), or for roots (var. sativum), which are baked, ground, and used as a coffee substitute and additive. It is also grown as a forage crop for livestock. It lives as a wild plant on roadsides in its native Europe, and in North America and Australia, where it has become widely naturalized.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chicory
Wild Chicory or Succory is not uncommon in many parts of England and Ireland, though by no means a common plant in Scotland. It is more common on gravel or chalk, especially on the downs of the south-east coast, and in places where the soil is of a light and sandy nature, when it is freely to be found on waste land, open borders of fields and by the roadside, and is easily recognized by its tough, twig-like stems, along which are ranged large, bright blue flowers about the size and shape of the Dandelion. Sir Jas. E. Smith, founder of the Linnean Society, says of the tough stems: ‘From the earliest period of my recollection, when I can just remember tugging ineffectually with all my infant strength at the tough stalks of the wild Succory, on the chalky hills about Norwich….’
—Description—It is a perennial, with a tap root like the Dandelion. The stems are 2 to 3 feet high, the lateral branches numerous and spreading, given off at a very considerable angle from the central stem, so that the general effect of the plant, though spreading, is not rich and full, as the branches stretch out some distance in each direction and are but sparsely clothed with leaves of any considerable size. The general aspect of the plant is somewhat stiff and angular.
The lower leaves of the plant are large and spreading – thickly covered with hairs, something like the form of the Dandelion leaf, except that the numerous lateral segments or lobes are in general direction about at a right angle with the central stem, instead of pointing downwards, as in similar portions of the leaf of the Dandelion. The terminal lobe is larger and all the segments are coarsely toothed. The upper leaves are very much smaller and less divided, their bases clasping the stems.
The flowerheads are numerous, placed in the axils of the stem-leaves, generally in clusters of two or three. When fully expanded, the blooms are rather large and of a delicate tint of blue: the colour is said to specially appeal to the humble bee. They are in blossom from July to September. However sunny the day, by the early afternoon every bloom is closed, its petal-rays drawing together. Linnaeus used the Chicory as one of the flowers in his floral Clock at Upsala, because of its regularity in opening at 5 a.m. and closing at 10 a.m. in that latitude. Here it closes about noon and opens between 6 and 7 in the morning.
Read in Full Here @ A Modern Herbal ~ https://www.botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/c/chicor61.html
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Chicory is a plant. Its roots and dried, above-ground parts are used to make medicine.
Chicory is used for loss of appetite, upset stomach, constipation, liver and gallbladder disorders, cancer, and rapid heartbeat.
It is also used as a “tonic,” to increase urine production, to protect the liver, and to balance the stimulant effect of coffee.
Some people apply a paste of chicory leaves directly to the skin for swelling and inflammation.
In foods, chicory leaves are often eaten like celery, and the roots and leaf buds are boiled and eaten. Chicory is also used as a cooking spice and to flavor foods and beverages. Coffee mixes often include ground chicory to enhance the richness of the coffee.
How does it work?
Chicory root has a mild laxative effect, increases bile from the gallbladder, and decreases swelling. Chicory is a rich source of beta-carotene.
Read in Full Here @ WebMD ~ http://www.webmd.com/vitamins-supplements/ingredientmono-92-chicory.aspx?activeingredientid=92&activeingredientname=chicory
Information On How To Grow Chicory
Image by pawpaw67
By Bonnie L. Grant
Chicory plant (Cichorium intybus) is an herbaceous biennial that is not native to the United States but has made itself at home here. The plant can be found growing wild in many areas of the U.S and is used both for its leaves and its roots. Chicory herb plants are easy to grow in the garden as a cool season crop. Seeds and transplants are the primary means of growing chicory.
Read in Full Here ~ http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/herbs/chicory/growing-chicory.htm
How to Grow and the Benefits of growing Chicory from Wild Chicory Heirloom Seeds
Read in Full Here ~ http://www.localharvest.org/blog/48630/entry/how_to_grow_and_the
Forage chicory (Cichorium intybus L.) is a perennial plant that is suited to well-drained or moderately drained soils with medium-to high-fertility levels and a pH of 5.5 or greater.
Read in Full Here Forage Chickory ~ http://extension.psu.edu/plants/crops/forages/species/forage-chicory
Lemmon’s Indian paintbrush ~ Castilleja lemmonii
Castilleja lemmonii is a species of Indian paintbrush known by the common name Lemmon’s Indian paintbrush. It is native to the high mountain ranges of eastern California and just into western Nevada, where it grows in moist meadows. It is a perennial herb 10 to 20 centimeters tall coated in glandular hairs. The leaves are 2 to 4 centimeters long and linear to narrowly lance-shaped. The inflorescence is made up of many purple- or pink-tipped greenish bracts. Between the bracts appear small yellowish flowers.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castilleja_lemmonii
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Botany Photo of the Day
I’ve returned from two weeks of work in the field and two weeks of vacation, but here is another entry from Taisha today while I continue to catch up on correspondence. Taisha writes:
Thanks to Eric Hunt.@Flickr for this photograph of Castilleja lemmonii, or Lemmon’s Indian paintbrush. It was taken in July of 2009 in an alpine meadow between California’s Greenstone Lake and Saddlebag Lake, located in the Inyo National Forest of Mono County. Thanks, Eric!
Castilleja lemmonii is perennial species native to California. It is found in moist meadows in the southern Cascades and the Sierra Nevada at elevations of 1550-3700 m. Grey-green lanceolate leaves are held on an unbranched stem that can reach up to 20 cm in height. The inflorescence consists of a collection of pink to purple-red bracts that surround green tubular flowers.
http://www.botanicalgarden.ubc.ca/potd/2014/08/castilleja-lemmonii.php
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Lemmon’s Indian paintbrush (Castilleja lemmonii)
https://www.inaturalist.org/taxa/Lemmon’s_Indian_paintbrush
Calflora
http://www.calflora.org/entry/plantchar.html?crn=1708
Indian Paintbrush – Officially known as Castilleja, and also called Prairie-fire, this is a genus of about 200 species of Broomrape family, that are native to the west of the Americas from Alaska south to the Andes. The flowers of Indian Paintbrush are edible and sweet, and were consumed in moderation by various Native American tribes as a condiment with other fresh greens. These plants can be potentially very toxic if the roots or green parts of the plant are consumed. It has similar health benefits to consuming garlic if only the flowers are eaten in small amounts and in moderation. The Chippewa Indians are know the use Indian Paintbrush as a medicine to treat rheumatism and as a bath rinse to make their hair glossy. Both applications are useful due to it’s selenium content. Nevada Indian tribes used the plant to treat sexually-transmitted diseases and to enhance the immune system and Hopi women drank a tea of the whole Indian paintbrush to “Dry up the menstrual flow.”
http://www.legendsofamerica.com/na-herbs6.html
Xerochrysum bracteatum ~ Strawflower , Everlasting ~ Health Benefits and Uses
The health benefits of Helichrysum Essential Oil can be attributed to its properties as an antispasmodic, anticoagulant, antiallergenic, antimicrobial, antihaematoma, antiphlogistic, nervine, antiinflammatory, antitussive, cicatrisant, expectorant, febrifuge, anti septic, cholagogue, emollient, mucolytic, fungicidal, hepatic, diuretic, splenic and cytophylactic substance.
Helichrysum, the flower that contributes to “Everlasting” and “Immortal” Essential Oil, and known by the names Helichrysum Angustifolium and Helichrysum Italicum, is an European herb native to France, Italy and a few neighboring countries.
MEDICINAL APPROACH & PROPERTIES
The essential oil shows considerable infraspecific variation; its main components are monoterpene hydrocarbons (pinene, camphene, myrcene, and limonene) and monoterpene-derived alcohols (linalool, teripinene-4-ol, nerol, geraniol, also their acetates);
Further important aroma components are nonterpeoid acylic beta-ketones. It sounds so technical that it’s confusing but they are important elements and they need to be mentioned.
So many people are beginning to appreciate the healing elements of this plant and aroma therapists world wide recognize the power of this plant, heres a link to a super piece all about our friend Helichrysum Italicum, so get reading folks.
Scroll dow now below and discover what helichrysum can do for you if you have a skin issue but not only : In fact it is also thought to be a strong chelator, supporting liver function and potentially drawing heavy metals and toxins out of the body. It is noted as one of, if not THE, most effective detoxification supporting essential oils by Battaglia in ‘The Complete Guide to Aromatherapy’. A strong dilution can be used (coconut oil, for example) and massaged twice per day into the feet. The reflex points of the feet corresponding to the liver may be of greatest help in this process.
Helichrysum essential oil therapeutic properties: READ IN FULL HERE ~
http://www.helichrysum-italicum.com/properties.html
Helichrysum bracteatum, Strawflower; Everlasting
An intense rich aroma with a herbaceous note. Among its properties are anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antitussive, astringent, diuretic, expectorant, fungicidal and cicatrisant.
The French used this oil primarily as an anti-inflammatory to regulate cholesterol, stimulate the cells of the liver, and as an antispasmodic. This particular variety has powerful antibruise properties. It’s ideal to use in lymphatic drainage massage, acts as a stimulant for the liver, gall bladder, kidneys and spleen and the organs responsible for detoxifying the body.
Italidone, one of its chemical components, has been found to have strong mucous thinning, expectorant and cicatrisant properties. It is a rejuvenating oil which promotes cell growth, helping to rebuild tissues. Clears the body of candida apparently, which often thrives when vitality is low. Blend with rosehip seed oil for scar formula or with lemon and geranium for kick-smoking blend. Assists in healing scars, acne, dermatitis, boils and abscesses.
http://medicalfunnyhoney.com/helichrysum
Plant Profile: The Strawflower
Scientific name: xerochrysum bracteatum (previously helichrysum bracteatum)
Other names: Everlasting, Paper Daisy, Golden Everlasting
The Strawflower, a flowering plant native to Australia, produces showy flowers with large dark green leaves. Plants can grow to be 3-4 feet tall, depending on the variety. The flower is also known as “paper daisy” for its papery texture. Just like the daisy, the center is made up of a cluster of tiny individual flowers. The “petals” surrounding the cluster are actually bracts. The plant will flower from summer to fall. The daisy-like flowers come in a wide range of colours, including white, yellow, pink and red.
Strawflowers are great additions to the garden, adding colour and texture to the landscape and will attract butterflies. Plant them in masses for the best effect. The taller varieties would be ideal as borders in a garden bed or rock garden. Gardeners love them because they are easy to grow, will tolerate heat and drought and can adapt to any soil condition. They can be grown as annuals, perennials, or shrubs. They also do well in containers.
Strawflowers don’t need much maintenance, but the plant would benefit from regular light pruning to encourage branching and increased blooms.
Strawflowers, especially the sturdier and long-stem varieties, are commonly used in the cut flower industry. Cut flowers can last between 2-3 weeks! Not only do they make great cut flowers, they are often used in dried floral arrangements because they are everlasting. When cut young and dried, the flowers and stems will retain their colour for a long time.
[growerdirect.com/plant-profile-the-strawflower]
Xerochrysum bracteatum, commonly known as the golden everlasting or strawflower
Xerochrysum bracteatum, commonly known as the golden everlasting or strawflower, is a flowering plant in the family Asteraceae native to Australia. Described by Étienne Pierre Ventenat in 1803, it was known as Helichrysum bracteatum for many years before being transferred to a new genus Xerochrysum in 1990. It grows as a woody or herbaceous perennial or annual shrub up to a metre (3 ft) tall with green or grey leafy foliage. Golden yellow or white flower heads are produced from spring to autumn; their distinctive feature is the papery bracts that resemble petals. The species is widespread, growing in a variety of habitats across the country, from rainforest margins to deserts and subalpine areas. The golden everlasting serves as food for various larvae of lepidopterans (butterflies and moths), and adult butterflies, hoverflies, native bees, small beetles and grasshoppers visit the flower heads.
The golden everlasting has proven very adaptable to cultivation. It was propagated and developed in Germany in the 1850s, and annual cultivars in a host of colour forms from white to bronze to purple flowers became available. Many of these are still sold in mixed seed packs. In Australia, many cultivars are perennial shrubs, which have become popular garden plants. Sturdier, long-stemmed forms are used commercially in the cut flower industry.
Cultivars~
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xerochrysum_bracteatum
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Botany Photo of the day, photo of Xerochrysum bracteatum, known commonly as straw flower or everlasting flower. This photo was taken by Anne Elliott (aka annkelliott@Flickr) back in May, and uploaded it to the Botany Photo of the Day Flickr Pool. Thanks for sharing, Anne!
See Here …
http://www.botanicalgarden.ubc.ca/potd/2014/08/xerochrysum-bracteatum.php
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How Do Strawflower Plants Reproduce? ~ by Fern Fischer
Varieties of perennial strawflowers (Xerochrysum bracteatum) produce various colors of flowers that are similar to annual strawflowers. Perennial plants live for a few seasons in areas with light frost — they don’t survive heavy or prolonged frost. Perennial varieties constantly renew by reseeding, or you can root tip-cuttings in sterile medium to propagate more plants. Perennial strawflowers grow in USDA plant hardiness zones 8 to 10, and are reliably winter-hardy in USDA zone 10.
Read More Here …
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/strawflower-plants-reproduce-41504.html
Facts About
Bracted strawflower is native to Australia. Also known as golden everlasting or paper daisy, this species is commonly grown as a garden ornamental, and many forms are available. It does not commonly escape cultivation, and in New England it has been collected only in Connecticut and Massachusetts.
Habitat
Anthropogenic (man-made or disturbed habitats), meadows and fields
Go Botany ~ Xerochrysum bracteatum (Vent.) Tzvelev ~ bracted strawflower
https://gobotany.newenglandwild.org/species/xerochrysum/bracteatum/
Asters Plant Care Guide ~ Varieties
The genus Aster once contained nearly 600 species in Eurasia and North America, but after morphologic and molecular research on the genus during the 1990s, it was decided that the North American species are better treated in a series of other related genera. After this split there are roughly 180 species within the genus, all but one being confined to Eurasia.[3] The name Aster comes from the Ancient Greek word ἀστήρ (astér), meaning “star”, referring to the shape of the flower head. Many species and a variety of hybrids and varieties are popular as garden plants because of their attractive and colourful flowers. Aster species are used as food plants by the larvae of a number of Lepidoptera species—see list of Lepidoptera that feed on Aster. Asters can grow in all hardiness zones.
The genus Aster is now generally restricted to the Old World species, with Aster amellus being the type species of the genus, as well as of the family Asteraceae.[1] The New World species have now been reclassified in the genera Almutaster, Canadanthus, Doellingeria, Eucephalus,Eurybia, Ionactis, Oligoneuron, Oreostemma, Sericocarpus and Symphyotrichum, though all are treated within the tribe Astereae. Regardless of the taxonomic change, all are still widely referred to as “asters” (popularly “Michaelmas daisies” because of their typical blooming period) in the horticultural trades. See the List of Aster synonyms for more information.
Some common North American species that have now been moved are:
- Aster breweri (now Eucephalus breweri), Brewer’s aster
- Aster cordifolius (now Symphyotrichum cordifolium), blue wood aster
- Aster dumosus (now Symphyotrichum dumosum), New York aster
- Aster divaricatus (now Eurybia divaricata), white wood aster
- Aster ericoides (now Symphyotrichum ericoides), heath aster
- Aster laevis (now Symphyotrichum laeve), smooth aster
- Aster lateriflorus (now Symphyotrichum lateriflorum), “Lady in Black”, calico aster
- Aster novae-angliae (now Symphyotrichum novae-angliae), New England aster
- Aster novi-belgii (now Symphyotrichum novi-belgii), New York aster
- Aster peirsonii (now Oreostemma peirsonii), Peirson’s aster
- Aster protoflorian (now Symphyotrichum pilosum), frost aster
- Aster scopulorum (now Ionactis alpina), lava aster
- Aster sibiricus (now Eurybia sibirica), Siberian aster
The “China aster” is in the related genus Callistephus.
Species
Aster alpinus is the only species ofAster (sensu stricto) that grows natively in North America; it is found in mountains across the Northern Hemisphere.
In the United Kingdom, there are only two native members of the genus: goldilocks, which is very rare, and Aster tripolium, the sea aster. Aster alpinus spp. vierhapperi is the only species native to North America.[2]
Some common species are:
- Aster alpinus, Alpine aster
- Aster amellus, European Michaelmas daisy or Italian aster
- Aster linosyris, goldilocks aster
- Aster scaber
- Aster tataricus, Tatarian aster
- Aster tongolensis
- Aster tripolium, sea aster
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aster_(genus)
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Asters are daisy-like perennials with starry-shaped flower heads. They bring delightful color to the garden in late summer and autumn when many of your other summer blooms may be fading.
The plant’s height ranges from 8 inches to 8 feet, depending on the type. You can find an aster for almost any garden and they have many uses, such as in borders, rock gardens, or wildflower gardens. Asters also attract butterflies to your garden!
http://www.almanac.com/plant/aster
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Aster’s brilliant flowers brighten the fall garden when little else is blooming. Indeed, “aster,” the Latin word for “star,” aptly describes the starry flower heads. Another common name is Michaelmas daisy.
About This Plant
Aster thrives in areas with cool, moist summers. It produces blue, white, or pink flowers in the late summer or fall. Plant height ranges from 8 inches to 8 feet, depending on variety. Tall varieties make good back-of-the-border plants and are also attractive planted in naturalized meadows. Aster is susceptible to powdery mildew and rust diseases, so choose disease-resistant varieties.
Special Features
Attracts butterflies.
Site Selection
Select a site with full sun to light shade and well-drained soil.
Planting Instructions
Plant in spring, spacing plants 1 to 3 feet apart, depending on the variety. Prepare garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the pot the plant is in. Carefully remove the plant from its container and place it in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Carefully fill in around the root ball and firm the soil gently. Water thoroughly.
Care
Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds. Pinch young shoots back to encourage bushiness. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. Stake tall varieties to keep them upright. After the first killing frost, cut stems back to an inch or two above soil line. Divide plants every three to four years as new growth begins in the spring, lifting plants and dividing them into clumps containing three to five shoots.
http://www.garden.org/plantguide/?q=show&id=2031
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How to Grow and Care for Aster Flowers
Perennial
Growing Asters is easy. Perennial Aster flowers grow well in average soils, but needs full sun. Aster flowers come in blues, purples and a variety of pinks. All Asters are yellow in the center of the flower. They are daisy-like in appearance, even though they are a member of the sunflower family.
Did you know? The yellow center of Asters is actually comprised of many tiny flowerets.
Asters come in a wide variety, with some less than a foot tall, while others are two feet tall or more. Both large and smaller varieties make good cut flowers for vases and arrangements.
Plant Height: up to 24 inches
Flowers Bloom: Summer/Fall
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All About Asters
From tall to small, splashy to subdued, these perennials are proven performers.
by Leonard Perry
from Fine Gardening issue 135
http://www.finegardening.com/all-about-asters
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5 things to know about the TOMATO
July 12, 2014
1. Cooked tomatoes are better for you than raw ones: the heat causes more of the antioxidant properties to be released.
2. Don’t store tomatoes in the fridge!The cold damages their delicate cell membranes. Instead leave at room temperature and to keep them from rotting to quickly – put them stem down.
3. The leaves of tomato plant can actually add a vibrant “fresh tomatoaroma” to pasta sauces.e Use like fresh basil.
4. Eating cooked tomatoes may act as a kind of internal sunscreen. They help block UV rays, but don’t toss the sunscreen, tomatoes are only a supplement not a replacement.
5. When tomatoes arrived in Italy in the mid-1500’s they were originally grown not to eat but for a garden decoration.
(Glad that idea didn’t last, aren’t you?)
How to Plant a Spirea Bush ~ Plant Care Guide
Spiraea /spaɪˈriːə/, is a genus of about 80 to 100 species of shrubs in the family Rosaceae. They are native to the temperate Northern Hemisphere, with the greatest diversity in eastern Asia.
The genus formerly included the herbaceous species now segregated into the genera Filipendula and Aruncus; recent genetic evidence has shown that Filipendula is only distantly related to Spiraea, belonging in the subfamily Rosoideae.
Spiraea plants are hardy, deciduous-leaved shrubs. The leaves are simple and usually short stalked, and are arranged in a spiralling, alternate fashion. In most species, the leaves are lanceolate (narrowly oval) and about 1 to 4 inches (2.5 to 10.2 cm) long. The leaf margins are usually toothed, occasionally cut or lobed, and rarely smooth. Stipules are absent.
The many small flowers of Spiraea shrubs are clustered together in inflorescences, usually in dense panicles, umbrella-like corymbs, or grape-like clusters. The radial symmetry of each flower is five-fold, with the flowers usually bisexual, rarely unisexual. The flowers have five sepals and five white, pink, or reddish petals that are usually longer than the sepals. Each flower has many (15 to 60) stamens. The fruit is an aggregate of follicles.
Species
- Spiraea affinis
- Spiraea alaskaense
- Spiraea alba – narrow-leaved meadowsweet, pale bridewort
- Spiraea albiflora
- Spiraea amoena
- Spiraea arcuata
- Spiraea baldschuanica
- Spiraea bella
- Spiraea betulifolia – white meadowsweet
- Spiraea blumei
- Spiraea calcicola
- Spiraea cana
- Spiraea canescens – Himalayan spiraea
- Spiraea cantoniensis – Reeve’s spiraea
- Spiraea chamaedryfolia – elm-leaf spiraea, germander meadowsweet
- Spiraea crenata
- Spiraea decumbens
- Spiraea douglasii – Douglas’ spiraea, steeplebush
- Spiraea gemmata
- Spiraea henryi
- Spiraea hypericifolia – Iberian meadowsweet
- Spiraea japonica – Japanese spiraea
- Spiraea lobata
- Spiraea longigemmis
- Spiraea media – Russian spiraea
- Spiraea micrantha
- Spiraea miyabei
- Spiraea mollifolia
- Spiraea nervosa
- Spiraea nipponica
- Spiraea prunifolia – bridal-wreath spiraea
- Spiraea pubescens
- Spiraea rosthornii
- Spiraea salicifolia – bridewort, willowleaf meadowsweet
- Spiraea sargentiana
- Spiraea septentrionalis – northern meadowsweet
- Spiraea splendens – rose meadowsweet
- Spiraea stevenii – beauverd spirea
- Spiraea thunbergii – Thunberg’s meadowsweet
- Spiraea tomentosa – hardhack, steeplebush
- Spiraea trichocarpa
- Spiraea trilobata – Asian meadowsweet
- Spiraea veitchii
- Spiraea virginiana – Virginia spiraea
- Spiraea wilsonii
- Spiraea yunnanensis
Hybrids
There are also numerous named hybrids, some occurring naturally in the wild, others bred in gardens, including several important ornamental plants:
- Spiraea × arguta (S. × multiflora × S. thunbergii) – garland spiraea
- Spiraea × billiardii (S. douglasii × S. salicifolia) – Billiard’s spiraea
- Spiraea × blanda (S. nervosa × S. cantoniensis)
- Spiraea × brachybotrys (S. canescens × S. douglasii)
- Spiraea × bumalda (S. japonica × S. albiflora)
- Spiraea × cinerea (S. hypericifolia × S. cana)
- Spiraea × conspicua (S. japonica × S. latifolia)
- Spiraea × fontenaysii (S. canescens × S. salicifolia)
- Spiraea × foxii (S. japonica × S. betulifolia)
- Spiraea × gieseleriana (S. cana × S. chamaedryfolia)
- Spiraea × macrothyrsa (S. douglasii × S. latifolia)
- Spiraea × multiflora (S. crenata × S. hypericifolia)
- Spiraea × notha (S. betulifolia × S. latifolia)
- Spiraea × nudiflora (S. chamaedryfolia × S. bella)
- Spiraea × pikoviensis (S. crenata × S. media)
- Spiraea × pyramidata (S. betulifolia × S. douglasii) – pyramid spiraea
- Spiraea × revirescens (S. amoena × S. japonica)
- Spiraea × sanssouciana (S. japonica × S. douglasii)
- Spiraea × schinabeckii (S. chamaedryfolia × S. trilobata)
- Spiraea × semperflorens (S. japonica × S. salicifolia)
- Spiraea × vanhouttei (S. trilobata × S. cantoniensis) – Van Houtte’s spiraea
- Spiraea × watsoniana (S. douglasii × S. densiflora)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spiraea
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How to Plant a Spirea Bush ~ by Caryn Anderson
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/plant-spirea-bush-24222.html
Adding a 2-inch layer of mulch helps discourage weeds from growing.
Spireas (Spiraea) fill the landscape with cascading clusters of flowers that bloom in spring and summer. These deciduous shrubs grow to heights and spreads of 2 to 10 feet, depending on the variety. They are hardy in Sunset Climate Zones 14 through 17. Spireas flourish in coastal and inland climates and are one of easiest types of flowering shrubs to grow, since they require minimal maintenance and adapt to a range of growing conditions.
Find a planting area that has well-draining soil, receives full to partial sun exposure and has enough space to accommodate the spirea’s projected mature size. Take spacing into consideration. Plan to allow 2 to 15 feet between plants, allowing more space between larger varieties of spirea.
- Dig a hole that is as deep as the spirea’s root ball and at least twice as wide to allow the roots to spread out. In general, you do not need to add anything to the soil or test its pH since spireas adapt to most types of soil. If the soil is very low in organic materials, mix about 1 inch of compost in with the garden soil while planting.
- Remove the plant from its container, gently loosening any roots that are wound tightly around the root ball. Place it upright in the hole and fill it in halfway with soil. Water the hole thoroughly, saturating the ground to remove any air pockets that may later damage the spirea’s roots. Wait until the water is absorbed to fill the hole completely with soil and water thoroughly again.
- Create a ring around the spirea’s hole, mounding soil 2 to 3 inches high to help hold water in the planting area. Distribute a layer of mulch about 2 inches thick around the planting area beyond the ring that you created. After the plant’s first season, remove the ring and place mulch closer to the plant.
- Water plants regularly throughout the growing season, adding an average of 1 inch of water weekly. Where you live may dictate how frequently you have to water your plants. For example, gardeners in coastal areas usually have sandy soil. Sandy soil drains faster than other types of soil, making it necessary for gardeners to water more frequently.
Things You Will Need
Spade
Garden tiller (optional)
Compost (optional)
Mulch
Planting times are flexible. Gardeners should plant spireas in spring or fall to allow young plants time to become established before summer.
About the Author
Caryn Anderson has been writing professionally since 2007. She specializes in a variety of subjects, including food and healthy recipes, pets and health. She is an avid gardener and travel enthusiast. Anderson holds her Bachelor of Science in communication studies from New York University.
Photo Credits
Jupiterimages/Photos.com/Getty Images
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Care of Spirea ~ by Jackie Carroll
Spirea comes in a wide range of sizes and types, each with its own uses in the landscape. Small varieties, such as the 1.5-foot-tall Spirea japonica, work well as neat, rounded ground covers. Mid-sized plants, including most varieties of S. x cineria show best in foundation plantings and shrub borders. If you’re looking for an informal hedge or specimen plant, choose S. nipponica, S. prunifolia or S. vanhouttei, which grow to between 5 and 9 feet tall. Spring-blooming spireas generally have white flowers, while summer-blooming types usually bloom in shades of pink or red.
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/care-spirea-21670.html
Spirea ~ Spireas are small to medium sized deciduous shrubs that produce cascades of flowers in spring and summer.
http://www.garden.org/plantguide/?q=show&id=2103
Growing Spirea Shrubs: Information On How To Care For Spirea Bushes
http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/shrubs/spirea/growing-spirea-shrubs.htm
Sisyrinchium ~ Blue-eyed Grasses Plant Care Guide ~ Varieties
Sisyrinchium (Blue-eyed Grasses) is a genus of 70-200 species of annual to perennial plants of the iris family, native to the New World.
Several species in the eastern United States are threatened or endangered.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sisyrinchium
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Sisyrinchium
Common Name: blue-eyed grass
Type: Herbaceous perennial
Family: Iridaceae
Native Range: Southeastern United States
Zone: 4 to 9
Height: 1.50 to 2.00 feet
Spread: 0.50 to 1.00 feet
Bloom Time: May to June
Bloom Description: Blue
Sun: Full sun
Water: Medium
Maintenance: Medium
Suggested Use: Ground Cover, Naturalize
Flower: Showy, Good Cut
Garden locations
Culture
Best grown in medium moisture, well-drained soil in full sun. Tolerates light shade. Prefers consistently moist soils that do not dry out, but drainage must be good. Will freely self-seed in optimum growing conditions. Plantings may be sheared back after bloom to avoid any unwanted self-seeding and/or to tidy foliage for remaining part of the growing season. Plants may need to be divided every 2-3 years to keep plantings vigorous.
Noteworthy Characteristics
Though their foliage is grass-like, the blue-eyed grasses belong to the iris family not the grass family. Sisyrinchium angustifolium is noted for its violet-blue flowers and branched flowering stems. It is native to Missouri where it occurs in damp open woods, slopes and along stream banks throughout much of the State. It is a clump-forming perennial that features a tuft of narrow grass-like leaves (to 3/16″ wide) typically growing to 12″ (less frequently to 20″) tall. Clusters of violet-blue flowers (to 1/2″ across), each with 6 pointed tepals and a yellow eye, appear in spring on stalks growing from leaf-like bracts atop usually branched flowering stems which are distinctively flattened. Sisyrinchium campestre, also a Missouri native, features pale blue to white flowers atop unbranched flowering stems. S. angustifolium includes plants formerly classified as S. bermudianum.
Problems
No serious insect or disease problems.
Garden Uses
Best naturalized in informal garden areas such as cottage gardens, woodland gardens, wild gardens or native plant areas. Also effective in border fronts and rock gardens. Also effective as an edger for paths or walkways.
http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=i870
Blue-Eyed Grass can be a shy, retiring plant at times. They are small perennials, only 10-30 cm (4-12″) tall, with leaves to 3 mm (1/8″) wide. They start opening their eyes in early June and continue to look around all through June. But you have to be a morning person. Sometimes I have gone to photograph those pretty blue eyes in the afternoon only to find that they have already closed their eyes for the day. And just try to find them when their eyes are closed! Their medium green grass-like leaves fade into the background and mingle shyly with all the prairie grasses around them.
Each pretty blue eye sheds a tear when it is finished blooming, in the form of a small round seed capsule filled with tiny black seeds. Perhaps they are tears of happiness or perhaps they are tears of sorrow. We can only speculate. This plant is also known as Star Grass by some people because the flowers are distinctly star shaped. Blue-Eyed Grass is actually not a true grass, but a member of the Iris family, closely related to Blue Flag or Wild Iris (Iris versicolor).
Native Habitat
Blue-Eyed Grass is a native perennial that grows across the prairies and parklands in open meadows. I have seen it growing in a field in northwest Winnipeg along with Prairie Crocus and Three Flowered Avens. John Morgan (Prairie Habitats – see Gardening with Native Prairie Plants) also reported seeing a hillside covered with blooming plants in the Carberry Hills of Manitoba.
http://www.naturenorth.com/spring/flora/begrass/Fbegrass.html
Narrowleaf blue-eyed grass, Narrow-leaf blue-eyed-grass, Bermuda blue-eyed grass, Blue-eyed grass
Iridaceae (Iris Family)
Synonym(s): Sisyrinchium bermudiana, Sisyrinchium graminoides
USDA Symbol: SIAN3
USDA Native Status: L48 (N), CAN (N)
The numerous, narrow, light-green leaves of this perennial form dense, tufted clumps which steadily grow with new foliage during the season. The flattened, leaf-like flowering stems may be up to 18 in. long and bear light-blue, star-shaped flowers a few inches above the leaves. Height is 1-1 1/2 ft. Several delicate, blue or deep blue-violet flowers with yellow centers in 2 broad bracts top a flat stem, generally only 1 flower at a time in bloom; stems taller than the clusters of narrow, sword-shaped leaves near base.
Although the plant is small and has grass-like leaves, the flowers have all the features of the Iris family. The various species are all much alike and separation is based on such characteristics as branching pattern and leaf length. Common Blue-eyed Grass (S. montanum) is also a widespread species, with slightly wider leaves, over 1/4 (6 mm), and unbranched stalks.
PLANT CHARACTERISTICS
Duration: Perennial
Habit: Herb
Size Notes: 1-1.5 feet.
Leaf: Green
Fruit: Brown
Size Class: 1-3 ft.
BLOOM INFORMATION
Bloom Color: Blue
Bloom Time: Mar , Apr , May , Jun , Jul
Native Habitat: Meadows; damp fields; low, open woods
GROWING CONDITIONS
Water Use: Medium
Light Requirement: Sun , Part Shade
Soil Moisture: Moist , Wet
CaCO3 Tolerance: Low
Soil Description: Moist, poor to average soils
Conditions Comments: This short-lived perennial will decline if allowed to dry out. Heavy mulch causes crown rot and rich, organic soils encourage rank, vegetative growth. Plants need to be divided at least every other year.
BENEFIT
Use Medicinal: Amerindians used root tea for diarrhea (in children); plant tea for worms, stomachaches. Several species used as laxatives. (Foster & Duke)
Conspicuous Flowers: yes
Deer Resistant: No
PROPAGATION
Propagation Material: Seeds
Description: Propagate by seed or division. Several dozen divisions can be expected from a mature, healthy specimen.
Seed Collection: Collect seed capsule when they have darkened to brown and become wrinkled.
Commercially Avail: yes
FIND SEED OR PLANTS
Find seed sources for this species at the Native Seed Network.
http://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=SIAN3
My Newest Addition :) Sisyrinchium angustifolium ~ blue-eyed grass
will do blog regarding Sisyrinchium varities tomorrow after i plant mine 😀
GMO Agriculture and Chemical Pesticides are Killing the Bees
The US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has failed to protect bees from neonicotinoid pesticides, according to a lawsuit against the agency, filed by beekeepers and environmental groups. Said Paul Towers, spokesperson for the Pesticide Action Network (PAN), one of the groups involved in the lawsuit:
“Despite our best efforts to warn the agency about the problems posed by neonicotinoids, the EPA continued to ignore the clear warning signs of an ag system in trouble.”
Lawsuit Maintains the Link Between Neonicotinoids and Bee Die Off Is ‘Crystal Clear’
Neonicotinoid pesticides are a newer class of chemicals that are applied to seeds before planting. This allows the pesticide to be taken up through the plant’s vascular system as it grows, where it is expressed in the pollen and nectar.
These insecticides are highly toxic to bees because they are systemic, water soluble, and pervasive. They get into the soil and groundwater where they can accumulate and remain for many years and present long-term toxicity to the hive as well as to other species, such as songbirds.
Neonicotinoids affect insects’ central nervous systems in ways that are cumulative and irreversible. Even minute amounts can have profound effects over time.
The disappearance of bee colonies began accelerating in the United States shortly after the EPA allowed these new insecticides on the market in the mid-2000s. The lawsuit alleges that the EPA allowed the neonicotinoids to remain on the market despite clear warning signs of a problem.
It also alleges the EPA acted outside of the law by allowing conditional registration of the pesticides, a measure that allows a product to enter the market despite the absence of certain data.
European Food Safety Authority Ruled Neonicotinoids ‘Unacceptable’
The EPA’s continued allowance of neonicotinoids becomes all the more irresponsible in light of recent findings by other government organizations. Earlier this year, for instance, the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) released a report that ruled neonicotinoid insecticides are essentially “unacceptable” for many crops.1 The European Commission asked EFSA to assess the risks associated with the use of three common neonicotinoids – clothianidin, imidacloprid and thiamethoxam – with particular focus on:
- Their acute and chronic effects on bee colony survival and development
- Their effects on bee larvae and bee behavior
- The risks posed by sub-lethal doses of the three chemicals
One of the glaring issues that EFSA came across was a widespread lack of information, with scientists noting that in some cases gaps in data made it impossible to conduct an accurate risk assessment. Still, what they did find was “a number of risks posed to bees” by the three neonicotinoid insecticides. The Authority found that when it comes to neonicotinoid exposure from residues in nectar and pollen in the flowers of treated plants:2
“…only uses on crops not attractive to honeybees were considered acceptable.”
As for exposure from dust produced during the sowing of treated seeds, the Authority ruled “a risk to honeybees was indicated or could not be excluded…” Unfortunately, neonicotinoids have become the fastest growing insecticides in the world. In the US, virtually all genetically engineered Bt corn crops are treated with neonicotinoids.
Serious Risks to Bees Already Established
One of the observed effects of these insecticides is weakening of the bee’s immune system. Forager bees bring pesticide-laden pollen back to the hive, where it’s consumed by all of the bees.
Six months later, their immune systems fail, and they fall prey to secondary, seemingly “natural” bee infections, such as parasites, mites, viruses, fungi and bacteria. Pathogens such as Varroa mites, Nosema, fungal and bacterial infections, and Israeli Acute Paralysis Virus (IAPV) are found in large amounts in honeybee hives on the verge of collapse.
Serious honeybee die-offs have been occurring around the world for the past decade but no one knows exactly why the bees are disappearing.
The phenomenon, dubbed Colony Collapse Disorder (CCD), is thought to be caused by a variety of imbalances in the environment, although agricultural practices such as the use of neonicotinoid pesticides are receiving growing attention as more research comes in. As written in the journal Nature:3
“Social bee colonies depend on the collective performance of many individual workers. Thus, although field-level pesticide concentrations can have subtle or sublethal effects at the individual level, it is not known whether bee societies can buffer such effects or whether it results in a severe cumulative effect at the colony level. Furthermore, widespread agricultural intensification means that bees are exposed to numerous pesticides when foraging, yet the possible combinatorial effects of pesticide exposure have rarely been investigated.”
This is what the Nature study set out to determine, and it was revealed that bees given access to neonicotinoid and pyrethroid pesticides were adversely affected in numerous ways, including:
- Fewer adult worker bees emerged from larvae
- A higher proportion of foragers failed to return to the nest
- A higher death rate among worker bees
- An increased likelihood of colony failure
The researchers said:
“Here we show that chronic exposure of bumble bees to two pesticides (neonicotinoid and pyrethroid) at concentrations that could approximate field-level exposure impairs natural foraging behavior and increases worker mortality leading to significant reductions in brood development and colony success.
We found that worker foraging performance, particularly pollen collecting efficiency, was significantly reduced with observed knock-on effects for forager recruitment, worker losses and overall worker productivity. Moreover, we provide evidence that combinatorial exposure to pesticides increases the propensity of colonies to fail.”
Why the Food Supply Could Be Dependent on Urgent Action by the EPA
The EPA acknowledges that “pesticide poisoning” may be one factor leading to colony collapse disorder,4 yet they have been slow to act to protect bees from this threat. The current lawsuit may help spur them toward more urgent action, which is desperately needed as the food supply hangs in the balance.
There are about 100 crop species that provide 90 percent of food globally. Of these, 71 are pollinated by bees.5 In the US alone, a full one-third of the food supply depends on pollination from bees. Apple orchards, for instance, require one colony of bees per acre to be adequately pollinated. So if bee colonies continue to be devastated, major food shortages could result.
There is also concern that the pesticides could be impacting other pollinators as well, including bumblebees, hoverflies, butterflies, moths and others, which could further impact the environment.
Four Steps to Help Protect the Bees
If you would like to learn more about the economic, political and ecological implications of the worldwide disappearance of the honeybee, check out the documentary film Vanishing of the Bees. If you’d like to get involved, here are four actions you can take to help preserve and protect our honeybees:
- Support organic farmers and shop at local farmer’s markets as often as possible. You can “vote with your fork” three times a day. (When you buy organic, you are making a statement by saying “no” to GMOs and toxic pesticides!)
- Cut the use of toxic chemicals in your house and on your lawn, and use only organic, all-natural forms of pest control.
- Better yet, get rid of your lawn altogether and plant a garden or other natural habitat. Lawns offer very little benefit for the environment. Both flower and vegetable gardens provide excellent natural honeybee habitats.
- Become an amateur beekeeper. Having a hive in your garden requires only about an hour of your time per week, benefits your local ecosystem, and you can enjoy your own honey!
Native gardening 101 ~ Turn Your Yard Into a Haven for Wildlife!
What is a Naturalized Garden?
Throughout many regions of the United States there is a growing movement toward creating naturalized gardens. So, what exactly is a naturalized garden?
There are many names for a naturalized garden, from nature-scape, heritage, ecological to native landscaping, but the principal remains the same. A naturalized garden is a landscaping technique that incorporates local native plants into the design and architecture. This creates a feeling of being in the open and wild areas that surround the region of the garden.
Naturalized gardens come in all shapes and sizes, depending on where the garden is located and what approach the landscaper has taken. Most commonly, it will incorporate shrubbery, flowering plants and natives that are of interest to the eye and can be created either with sparse and meticulous lines or with bountiful, flowing plants that seem to lean right up next to each other in a lush landscape.
In either approach, naturalized gardens will always incorporate native plants that thrive in the specific region they are planted in. This garden will be lower maintenance, less invasive to the surrounding areas, and typically bring along the benefits of planting indigenously such as water conservation or wild life ecology. When a naturalized garden is created, the local wild life will be attracted to the area of interest, whether that be hummingbirds or butterflies.
Naturalized gardens tend to have harmonious plants, less maintenance and water consumption, a greater life cycle and a more active ecology than their counterpart gardens. Of course, part of the real beauty of a naturalized garden is that no two will ever be alike. Depending on the region in which your garden will exist, you can have lush, thick bushes and flowering native plants that will attract the eye whimsically, or you can have linear, architectural lines that create interest in a modern and uncomplicated way. Because of the nature of the plants involved in indigenous gardens, your wallet may also thank you. The plants that are incorporated into this garden have evolved to thrive and will live a longer, healthier and more vibrant life than counterparts that are not natives. This in turn, will give your naturalized garden a life cycle that can go on for years and years without the need to replant. If that isn’t enough, the savings on your water bill may also come in to play, depending on the plants that thrive in your environment.
Naturalized gardens create a feeling of relaxed plantings and flowers that seem to work harmoniously, and effortlessly in their native environment. They work with the local ecology and water supply to conserve and thrive in all types of environments while creating a balanced and inclusive feel to any landscape.
http://www.lowwatergardening.com/what-is-a-naturalized-garden/#sthash.NYIkxtoS.dpuf
Native gardening 101
Protect native biodiversity by greening your garden
By introducing native plants and some strategic design features to your garden, you can provide patches of natural habitat for many species. A well-designed backyard can offer birds and pollinators like butterflies, more living space, feeding opportunities and the safety of cover from predators.
By enhancing and restoring natural elements in your garden, you’ll make the urban landscape more wildlife-friendly.
Where to begin?
Before you start, find out what kind of soils and natural plant communities used to exist in your area. This will give you a better idea of the groupings of native plant species that should thrive in your garden. A number of good websites exist that will help you identify plants that are native to your area.
Think too about the desired long-term look and feel of your backyard. Are you more drawn towards an open, sunny space that could be filled with a meadow or prairie garden, or is a shaded woodland garden more to your liking?
If you’re planting trees, consider their mature size and whether they will still be suitable for the space in 20, 40 or even 60 years. Consider especially their position relative to overhead wires and nearby buildings. In addition to the plants, plan for other features such as a small pond with trickling water to attract birds and perhaps even a few frogs, or a small brush pile to provide cover for small birds such as winter wrens as they migrate through neigbourhoods in spring and fall.
Consider what season you most enjoy spending time in your garden. For example, if you spend time away in July and August at a summer cottage, you may want to avoid planting species that flower while you are away, leaving you with little colour to enjoy on your return. On the other hand, if you entertain in your backyard all summer long, summer flowering plants may be a good choice. Although a naturalized garden may need less work than a more traditional garden, until it is well established you’ll need to give it some maintenance, including careful watering in times of drought.
Once you’ve considered these questions, you’re ready to begin sourcing your plants.
Sourcing plants
Start by asking garden centre staff about where their plants are grown. Many nurseries import plants from hundreds or even thousands of kilometres away. While they may carry the species you are looking for, the selection (if imported) may not be hardy to your backyard conditions. It’s best to find a nursery that can guarantee that its plants have been grown locally so that they are more likely to be hardy to the conditions in your yard.
Once you have found a garden centre that sells native plants, you should also ask the garden centre whether the plants you have selected were propagated under cultivation, and not dug out of the wild.
Maintaining your garden
Although a naturalized garden may be less formal than a manicured garden, they’re not necessarily maintenance-free. If done well, a naturalized garden may require less watering and be able to survive periods of drought more easily. Native plants are also often better adapted to the local climate and exhibit a higher tolerance to pests than many garden ornamentals. As a result, naturalized gardens can often thrive without the use of pesticides. In fact, a naturalized garden might even attract “beneficial” bugs that are predators of other pest species.
But if invasive weeds are not removed on a regular basis, they will compete with the native plants in your garden and can spread to nearby natural areas. You may even need to manage some of the more aggressive native species or else they can take over the garden. Although nature may thrive without human intervention, your yard exists on a much smaller scale and isn’t operating entirely as it would in nature. Not unlike the work of NCC’s stewardship staff on properties across Canada, you may need to carefully manage your garden to ensure that its diversity is restored and maintained over time.
You therefore need to assist some of the conditions for naturalized plants to thrive in, especially through weeding and watering. Urban neighbourhoods often have significantly lower water tables than in natural landscapes, so it’s important to water plants in extended dry spells.
Reaping the rewards
A naturalized garden will almost certainly increase the number of wildlife sightings in your backyard. Plants with a high nectar content attract butterflies and hummingbirds, and some native plants that produce berries in late summer or early fall will attract forest songbirds on their southward migration. A well-placed small pond feature with trickling water may attract both birds (who will key in to woodland stream sounds) and amphibians such as green frogs (which disperse across the landscape in summer).
A naturalized backyard can also be fun for kids, who naturally seem to love exploring wetlands and creeks, getting muddy and dirty and discovering new bugs and plants right in their own backyard.
These gardens and the wildlife that visits them can relly help get kids excited about nature.
Get your lawn off grass
Watch this video, entitled “Get Your Lawn off Grass.” Bill Freedman, NCC volunteer and a former member of NCC’s Board of Directors, describes how he naturalized his urban garden.
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Get Wild Go Native ! Do it on the Rooftop 🙂 @ Auntie Dogma’s here
Garden to Attract More Pollinators @ Auntie Dogma’s here
Turn Your Yard Into a Haven for Wildlife!
How to Attract Butterflies to Your Garden
Crocus vernus flower time lapse ~ Crocus Plant Care Guide
Crocus ~ Plant Care Guide
A sure sign of spring, crocuses have low-growing, colorful, cup-shaped flowers that are a welcome sight in garden beds and lawns.
About This Plant
Mass plantings of colorful crocuses herald the start of spring, sometimes poking their flowers right up through the snow. Because the plants flower so early, crocuses adapt well to planting in lawns and will multiply over time to cover large areas. Select varieties that mature at different times to extend the bloom season. Flower colors include blue, violet, striped, yellow, and white, and height ranges from 3 to 6 inches. While most crocus flower in spring, the saffron crocus is a fall-flowering crocus that is planted in spring.
Read in Full Here @ Auntie Dogma’s
Pruning Perennial Herbs ~ Spring
P. Allen Smith explains how to prune perennial herbs on the brink of spring.
Green Patch: Perennial Pruning
http://www.motherearthliving.com/gardening/green-patch-perennial-pruning.aspx
Grow a Vertical Vegetable Garden in a Small Space with Hog Wire
Vertical farming is cultivating plant or animal life within a skyscraper greenhouse or on vertically inclined surfaces. The modern idea of vertical farming uses techniques similar to glass houses, where natural sunlight can be augmented with artificial lighting.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vertical_farming
Vertical Gardening
Up, up, and away! Squeeze more vegetables into small spaces with trellises.
How to Grow Vegetables Vertically @ Wikihow
Vertical Gardening Techniques for Maximum Returns @ Auntie Dogma’s
Natural Remedies: Stress and Anxiety
Natural Remedies: Stress and Anxiety
We all have times when stress, anxiety, and sleeplessness enter our lives. Here are traditional herbal remedies to help.
First calm thyself. If gardening or another relaxing activity doesn’t calm your nerves and make you sleep well, try a tea (really a tisane, from the Greek for “medicinal brew.)
Herbal Teas
- Teas of chamomile, basil, marjoram, or basil help ease stress. Use about 1 ounce fresh herbs (half of that if dried) for every 2 to 3 cups water.
- A tea of elderberry flowers is considered relaxing to the nerves and is sleep inducing, too. (Caution! Avoid if pregnant.)
- For insomnia, drink bee balm which acts as a mild sedative, calming the nerves and aiding sleep. Take an infusion of 2 teaspoons chopped leaves in 1 cup boiling water.
- Drink rosemary tea to alleviate melancholy or depression.
- Native America tea ingredients for insomnia included lady’s slipper (decocted), yarrow, mullein, hops, and purslane (decocted).
- Valerian tea (or capsules) is a natural sleep aide. In infusions, 1 ounce of the roots in 1 pint boiling water is a common recipe, consumed by wineglass as needed. (Caution: Too high a dose may lead to negative side effects!)
Food
- First, do not eat your final meal late in the evening, and keep the meal light.
- Eating lettuce with your dinner is supposed to be calming, helping you to sleep and have pleasant dreams. Some say you should not have vinegar with your lettuce.
- Mandarin oranges are soporifics, so consider adding them to your evening meal to help insomnia.
- Native Americans reportedly ate raw onions to induce sleep. (They also used a variety of herbal syrups and poultices but they’re a bit too complicated for most of us today.)
- Trying to remain relaxed but alert? Some studies suggest that the smell of apples, apple cider vinegar, or spiced apples have this effect. The right smell can make all the difference.
Massages and Rubs
- Massage the temples with lavender oil.
- A warm bath with a couple of drops of chamomile oil aides sleeping. Add a slash of lavender oil for a relaxing aroma.
- For a relaxing body rub, soak equal parts finely chopped dandelions, burdock (roots and/or aerial parts), yellow dock, and lobelia in 1 quart rubbing alcohol for two weeks. Apply externally.
Bedtime
- Strew lavender in the linen closet to scent your bed sheets with this mildly narcotic herb.
- Try putting a few drops of lavender oil in your nose—gently, with a cotton swab (Q-tip).
- Sprinkle infusions of dill on your pillowcases and quickly iron them dry or fluff them in a clothes dryer.
- Dill will also lull cranky babies to sleep. Add dill infusion to the bath, sprinkle on a baby’s blanket, or use as a hair rinse.
- Sage is considered a “ghost medicine,” used to prevent nightmares. Strew it on the floor or in the bed.
- Keep in mind: Not every fragrant herb is suitable for a good night’s sleep. Some can have the reserve effect. You may wish to consult a herbalist.
A good laugh and a long sleep are the best cures in the doctor’s book.
–Irish proverb
Related Articles
City Home Gardening ~ Earth Science
City Home Gardening
Photographer: Menashe Davidson
Summary Author: Menashe Davidson
Home gardening is my friendly retreat from the city where I live — Rishon LeZion, Israel. The plants in my little gardens supply oxygen more for my soul than for my lungs, but they also fill my basic senses of sight, smell, taste and touch. We grow about 100 species of plants both on the balcony of our apartment (top photo) and on the roof of the apartment building.
Plants on the balcony are mainly decorative and includeannuals and perennials, ornamentals, and flowering plants. Roof plants provide fresh produce (vegetables, fruits and herbs), and as an added value their leafy cover helps moderate the temperature of the apartment building. We use Integrated Production/Pest Management approaches on our gardens. This isn’t a single method approach but rather a series of management evaluations, decisions and controls, combining common-sense practices with modern agricultural techniques. For example, though we use some pesticides, we minimize use of fertilizer and collect rainwater whenever possible. Produce from your own garden is not only fresher but always seems to taste better than fruits and vegetables purchased from the market. Photo taken on May 16, 2012.
Photo details: Top – Camera Model: NIKON D80; Focal Length: 32.0mm (35mm equivalent: 48mm); Aperture: f/6.3; Exposure Time: 0.0063 s (1/160); ISO equiv: 100.
- Rishon LeZion, Israel coordinates: 31.95, 34.8
- Related Links
- Student Links
- Earth Observatory
Health benefits of Borage ~ Plant Care Guide
Borage is a beautiful flowering plant that grows in the wild in the Mediterranean. It is cultivated and used widely throughout Europe for its healing properties and for a nice addition to a salad. Borage is also cultivated in the US, where it is more popular as an herbal supplement rather than a food product. The leaves are robust and have medicinal properties and the topper of the plant is a striking blue star shaped flower. The flowers are edible as well and are often found candied for cake decorations or made into sweet syrups. In Italy it is served as a side dish much like a serving of vegetables.
Borage is from the Boraginaaceae family and has the proper name of Borago officinalis. Borage is also known as the Bee plant and Bee Bread because the blue purplish star shaped flower attracts bees all summer long. Throughout history Borage has been used to treat a multitude of ailments and to improve overall health. The Romans would mix Borage tea and wine prior to combat, most likely to fortify themselves for the battle.
There are multiple health benefits one can get from taking Borage as a herbal supplement. One of the most important nutrients in Borage is essential fatty acids, something our body needs for good health. Essential fatty acids must be ingested from diet. An essential fatty acid deficiency can directly affect mood, internal inflammation and various cellular functions. In order for metabolic processes such as cardiovascular functions to work properly, they depend on the proper levels of essential fatty acids in the body. EFA’s also improve hair and nail growth and appearance. Specifically, Borage has very high levels of GLA, gamma linolenic acid, an important essential fatty acid. Borage is often used to boost GLA deficiencies in children as well to ensure proper growth.
Borage is also packed with other healthy nutrients that are great for the body. Borage is a good herbal supplement for women because it contains high levels of calcium and iron, nutrients many women are deficient in. Potassium, Zinc, B and C Vitamins, and beta carotene are packed into the Borage plant making it very nutritional.
The adrenal glands in our body work very hard all day to prepare our body for fight or flight situations, constantly releasing adrenalin into the body. Adrenal fatigue can occur when the body is overstressed. Borage is used to restore the adrenal glands to their natural balance, which in turn creates a calmer body and mind.
Borage is well known for its soothing qualities and has been used to treat nervous conditions. Its natural sedative effects have been used for lifting the spirits and softening the nervous edge some people experience. Borage works well to ease the depression and mood swings often associated with menopause and menstrual cycles as well and is a nice alternative to traditional prescription medications.
There are many current ongoing studies involving the health benefits of Borage. Borage is currently being researched as a possible treatment for rheumatoid arthritis because of it’s anti inflammatory properties. Because of research like this, Borage is now known to reduce itch and dryness associated with certain skin disorders such as eczema and dermatitis.
Borage can be found in a caplet form, or as a liquid extract of the plant. Borage oil is distilled from the seeds of the plant and used topically or taken internally. It is not recommended to be taken long term internally due to the concentration of alkaloids in Borage that can damage the liver. A typical dose of the caplet or extract form is one to two grams per day. The dried leaves can be brewed into a tea, which has been said to have a refreshing cucumber like flavor.
It is not recommended that Borage be taken long term internally because of the concentration of alkaloids in Borage that can damage the liver. Do not take Borage if you are taking anti-coagulants without discussing it with your doctor first. Nausea, cramping, bloating and headache are side effects that Borage can cause, although they are relatively mild.
See Also
Borage Herbal Medicine ~ Borage Uses, Health Benefits And Side Effects
Borage nutrition facts
Borage Alchemy works
Borage Magick
Ruler: Jupiter and Leo
Type: Herb
Other Names: “Barrach” (Celtic for “man of courage”), tailwort, bee’s bread, andstarflower
Magickal Form: Blossoms, dried leaves
Borage is legendary for its spirit-lifting and courage-inducing properties. Celtic warriors drank wine flavored with borage to give them courage in battle, borage leaves and flowers were eaten for courage by Roman soldiers before they went into battle. Medieval knights wore scraves embroidered with the flowers for the same reason.
For courage, tuck a borage blossom in the pocket before any stressful situation, or drink a tea or glass of wine flavored with borage leaves.
Drinking borage tea is said to increase psychic powers and relieve symptoms of depression. Many of the most noted herbalists throughout history have considered it a very effective anti-depressant for the feeling of elation it induces.
Pliny said that borage-flavored wine was the Nepenthe of Homer, which when drunk brings forgiveness. In Elizabethan England, it was considered to lift melancholy; according to Culpeper, borage expells pensiveness and melancholy, and the candied or jellied flowers comfort the heart and spirits of those who are sick from consumption or from the passions of the heart. Gerard recommended eating this herb in a salad for joy and said that a syrup made of the flowers “purgeth melancholy and quieteth the phreneticke and lunaticke person.”
Place the fresh blossoms on an altar to bring luck and power to your spells. Sprinkle crushed dried leaves around the workplace for inspiration and business expansion. Drink the tea to increase psychic abilities.
Eating the flowers in salads aids courage and cheerfulness and ends melancholy. The flowers sprinkled in the bath are good for courage or for Jovian protection, and a cup of borage tea can help with feelings of vulnerability and disjointedness.
In Hoodoo, borage flowers in the house help bring about domestic tranquility. Borage flowers may be used alone or mixed with blue-flowered Corn Flowers, Periwinkle, Rosemary, or Forget-Me-Not. Steep the flowers to make a tea. You can also add this tea to a floor wash for a peaceful home.
You can also sprinkle it at the 4 corners of the property, the 4 corners of the house, the 4 corners of each room, and the 4 corners of the kitchen table, to restore harmony and love to the family.
Place a pinch of dried Borage flowers in each corner of a room where family fights have occurred, with a fifth pinch under the rug at the center of the room.
Because of its connections to Jupiter, this herb is associated with the Hierophant in the tarot deck.
From: Encyclopedia of Magickal Ingredients
Starflower ~ Borage Plant Care Guide @ Auntie Dogma’s
Tip! Borage can be planted now in Northern Hemisphere 🙂
Time lapse Winter Aconite flowering, snow melting ~ Winter Aconite ~ Plant Care Guide
Winter Aconite ~ Plant Care Guide ~ Auntie Dogma’s
Northerners, got the winter gardening blues? ~ Grow Bulbs Indoors ~ How to
Growing Bulbs Indoors ~ Special techniques bring showy flowers into bloom ~ By Kathy LaLiberte
Amaryllis blooms brighten the home in winter. What’s more, they are among the easiest bulbs to grow indoors.
Growing bulbs indoors lets you enjoy the colors and fragrance of spring when it’s still months away. The key to success with indoor bulbs is to plan ahead.
Many people don’t realize that there are two types of bulbs for indoor growing: those you need to chill and those you don’t. Here’s how to tell the difference.
http://www.gardeners.com/Growing-Bulbs-Indoors/5158,default,pg.html
It’s Easy to Coax Bulbs into Bloom All Winter Long
Forcing bulbs into winter bloom was all the rage in the 1800s. Hyacinths were especially popular, since they’re so easy. Here’s everything you need to know to start enjoying this traditional winter-time pleasure yourself.
https://www.oldhousegardens.com/ForcingBulbs.aspx
http://www.almanac.com/plant/hyacinths
http://www.almanac.com/plant/tulips
http://www.almanac.com/plant/crocuses
http://www.almanac.com/plant/daffodils
Poinsettia Tips
“Christmas Star”~”Star of Bethlehem”~Poinsettia
The poinsettia (/pɔɪnˈsɛtiə/ or /pɔɪnˈsɛtə/)[1][2] (Euphorbia pulcherrima) is a culturally and commercially important plant species of the diverse spurge family that is indigenous to Mexico and Central America. It is particularly well known for its red and green foliage and is widely used in Christmas floral displays. It derives its common English name from Joel Roberts Poinsett,[3] the first United States Minister to Mexico,[4] who introduced the plant into the United States in 1825.
Toxicity claims
In the United States and perhaps elsewhere, there is a common misconception that the poinsettia is highly toxic. This misconception was spread by a 1919 urban legend of a two-year-old child dying after consuming a poinsettia leaf.[17]
While the sap and latex of many plants of the spurge genus are indeed toxic,[18] the poinsettia’s toxicity is relatively mild. Its latex can cause an allergic reaction in sensitive individuals.[19] It is also mildly irritating to the skin or stomach[6] and may sometimes cause diarrhea and vomiting if eaten.[20] Sap introduced into the human eye may cause temporary blindness.[21] An American Journal of Emergency Medicine study of 22,793 cases reported to the American Association of Poison Control Centers showed no fatalities, and furthermore that a strong majority of poinsettia exposures are accidental, involve children, and usually do not result in any type of medical treatment.[22] POISINDEX, a major source for poison control centers, says a 50-pound child would have to eat 500 bracts to accumulate levels of toxins found to be harmful in experiments.[17] An Ohio State University study showed no problems even with extremely large doses.[23]
PRESERVING POINSETTIAS BEYOND THE HOLIDAYs Here
Cooperative Extension Service Michigan State University Extension Bulletin
Poinsettias are traditional Christmas flowering plants that will last throughout the Christmas season. This bulletin describes how to select and care for poinsettias and how to reflower them.
Puccinia monoica
Puccinia monoica is macrocyclic (producing 5 different kinds of spores during its life cycle: pycniospores, aeciospores, urediniospores, teliospores and basidiospores). The species is also heteroecious, meaning it requires two unrelated hosts to complete its life cycle. For Puccinia monoica, the aeicial stage host is from the Brassicaceae, while the telial host is from the Poaceae.
I decided to write about a rust fungus, particularly one from the genus Puccinia, as I recently submitted a research proposal for my weed science class (I mentioned this class in the post on Fallopia convolvulus), where I’m looking into the potential of using a specific rust fungus from the genus Puccinia as a biological control agent to suppress a weedy Caryophyllaceae species that is common both in Canada and globally. Despite some Puccinia species being used for weed control, I haven’t come across any references that indicate Puccinia monoica is among them.
Biological control of weeds is when one uses a living organism to manage problematic plants. In some cases, pathogens like fungi are used. Fungal pathogens can affect their host plant’s ability to compete for limited resources, reduce the growth rate of the host and/or increase susceptibility to other pests. Rust fungi have the ability to spread rapidly over large areas, are destructive, and are host specific, making them ideal candidates for use as a biological control agent against weeds. Fungi as a biocontrol agent are either used in an inoculative (classical) approach, or an inundative (mycoherbicidal) approach. The inoculative approach is a low-cost one that involves introduction of an exotic pathogen to manage a weed population over a long period of time. The inundative technique is a higher-cost method where a weed population is overwhelmed with a direct application once or many times, similar to herbicide. The pathogen in this method is often called a bioherbicide, and, if it happens to be a fungus, usually referred to as a mycoherbicide.
If you’re interested in learning more you can look into Fungi as a Biocontrol Agent: Progress, Problems, and Potential by Butt, Jackson, & Magan (2001) or Non-Chemical Weed Management: Principles, Concepts, and Technology by Upadhyaya & Blackshaw (2007).
Photos @ source here
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Puccinia monoica is a rust fungus of the genus Puccinia that inhibits flowering in its host plant (usually an Arabis species) and transforms host behaviour in order to facilitate sexual reproduction of the rust fungus.
Puccinia monoica ~ From Wikipedia here
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