Evening Primrose Plant Care Guide ~ Oenthera
Oenothera
Oenothera is a genus of about 145[3] species of herbaceous flowering plants native to the Americas.[4] It is the type genus of the familyOnagraceae. Common names include evening primrose, suncups, and sundrops. They are not closely related to the true primroses (genus Primula).
Oenothera flowers are pollinated by insects, such as moths and bees. Like many other members of the Onagraceae, however, the pollengrains are loosely held together by viscin threads, so only insects that are morphologically specialized to gather this pollen can effectively pollinate the flowers. Bees with typical scopa cannot hold it. Also, the flowers open at a time when most bee species are inactive, so the bees which visit Oenothera are generally vespertine temporal specialists: bees that forage in the evening. The seeds ripen from late summer to fall.
Oenothera are used as food plants by the larvae of some Lepidoptera species. The flower moths Schinia felicitata and S. florida both feed exclusively on the genus, and the former is limited to O. deltoides.
In the wild, evening primroses act as primary colonizers, quickly appearing in recently cleared areas. They germinate in disturbed soils, and can be found in habitat types such as dunes, roadsides, railway embankments, and waste areas. They are often casual and are eventually outcompeted by other species.
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Oenothera rhombipetala, or the diamond-petal evening primrose, is photographed here by Don McClane@Flickr. He photographed this in mid-July of last year near Sedgwick County Park in Wichita, Kansas, USA. Thanks Don!
Also known as the four-point evening primrose, this species is found throughout much of the central continental USA. Like many members of the genus, Oenothera rhombipetala has a biennial life-cycle: in the first year, the germinated seed produces a rosette of leaves. In the second year, an erect leafy stem bearing flowers grows. Opening in the evening, the yellow flowers with their 4 distinctly-pointed petals wither the following morning.
It was observed in the 1960s that Oenothera rhombipetala seemed to be the single pollen source-food for the nocturnal bee species Sphecodogastra texana (flowering can occur all summer long, provided there is enough moisture). More recently, research by R. J. McGinley has shown that female bees of this genus collect pollen almost exclusively from members of the Onagraceae. Onagraceous pollen is unusually-shaped and enveloped in viscin (sticky) threads. Female Sphecodogastra bees have specialized curved pollen-collecting hairs on their hind legs, which allows them to accumulate large loads of the sticky pollen (see: McGinley, R.J. 2003. Studies of Halictinae (Apoidea: Halictidae), II: Revision of Sphecodogastra Ashmead, floral specialists of Onagraceae. (PDF) Smithsonian Contribution to Zoology 610).
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Low-Growing Evening Primrose Here
How to Grow Evening Primrose Here
Cosmos Plant Care Guide
Cosmos is a genus, with the same common name of Cosmos, of about 20–26 species of flowering plants in the family Asteraceae.
Cosmos is native to scrub and meadowland in Mexico where most of the species occur, Florida and the southern United States, Arizona, Central America, and to South America in the north to Paraguay in the south.
Cosmos are herbaceous perennial plants growing 0.3–2 m (10 in–6 ft 7 in) tall. The leaves are simple, pinnate, or bipinnate, and arranged in opposite pairs. The flowers are produced in a capitulum with a ring of broad ray florets and a center of disc florets; flower color is very variable between the different species. The genus includes several ornamental plants popular in gardens. Numerous hybrids and cultivars have been selected and named.
Selected species
Cosmos atrosanguineus (Hook.) Voss – Chocolate Cosmos
Cosmos bipinnatus Cav. – Garden Cosmos
Cosmos caudatus Kunth – Ulam Raja
Cosmos parviflorus (Jacq.) Pers. – Southwestern Cosmos
Cosmos scabiosoides Kunth
Cosmos sulphureus Cav. – Sulphur Cosmos
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Botanical name: Cosmos @ Old Farmer’s
Plant type: Flower
Sun exposure: Full Sun
Soil type: Loamy
Flower color: Red, Pink, Orange, White
Cosmos are annuals, grown for their showy flowers. The flowerheads may be bowl– or open cup–shaped and are atop of long stems. Cosmos are easy to grow and make good border or container plants. They make for good decorations in flower arrangements and also attract birds, bees, and butterflies to your garden.
Planting
- If you want a head start, you can plant cosmos indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost in trays or pots with a good seed-starting mixture. Seedlings grow fast, so move them into 5-inch pots as soon as they’re 3 or 4 inches tall.
- Plant seeds in moist, well-drained soil about 1/4-inch deep and 12–18 inches apart after the danger of frost has passed. You can also plant transplants instead of seeds. They also like soil that is not too rich.
- They can tolerate warm, dry weather.
- Depending on the type of flower, cosmos can grow anywhere between 18–60 inches tall.
- If you are growing cosmos from seeds, be mindful that it takes about 7 weeks to first bloom. After that, though, your flowers should continue to bloom until the next frost.
Care
- In order to prolong flowering, you should deadhead the plants (remove the dead/faded flowers).
- Because some of these plants can grow really tall, staking may be necessary.
- Water regularly, but make sure you don’t over-water the plants. Over-watering and over-fertilization can lead to plants with fewer flowers.
- Cosmos beds may become weedy due to the fact that they self-seed, so remember to check them.
Pests
- Stem canker
- Powdery mildew
- Gray mold
- Aphids
Harvest/Storage
- To harvest more seeds, remember to leave a few flowers on the plant because they will self-seed.
- You can cut the flowers off anytime after blooming, but it’s best to pick some right when the petals have opened.
- If you cut the blossoms on good stems when they first open, they’ll last more than a week in water.
Recommended Varieties
- Picotee, which have pretty white flowers with a crimson border around the edge of the flower (some are also flecked in crimson)
- Sea Shells, which have white, pink, or red tube-shaped petals
Special Features
- Attracts Butterflies
- Attracts Birds
Eco- Park in Damascus… artistic natural landscape (photo report)
Damascus, (SANA) – Damascus eco-park is distinct, being an artistic landscape that contains natural beauty components. It lies near the historic center of Damascus to revive human-nature bonds.
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R. Milhem / F. Allafi
Daylily Plant Care Guide ~ Hemerocallis
Daylily is the general nonscientific name of a species, hybrid or cultivar of the genus Hemerocallis /ˌhɛmɨroʊˈkælɪs/.[1] Daylily cultivar flowers are highly diverse in colour and form, as a result of hybridization efforts of gardening enthusiasts and professional horticulturalists. Thousands of registered cultivars are appreciated and studied by local and international Hemerocallis societies.[2] Hemerocallis is now placed in family Xanthorrhoeaceae, subfamily Hemerocallidoideae, and formerly was part of Liliaceae (which includes true lilies).
Daylilies are perennial plants. The name Hemerocallis comes from the Greek words ἡμέρα (hēmera) “day” and καλός (kalos) “beautiful”. This name alludes to the flowers which typically last no more than 24 hours. The flowers of most species open in early morning and wither during the following night, possibly replaced by another one on the same scape (flower stalk) the next day. Some species are night-blooming. Daylilies are not commonly used as cut flowers for formal flower arranging, yet they make good cut flowers otherwise as new flowers continue to open on cut stems over several days.
Hemerocallis is native to Eurasia, including China, Korea, and Japan, and this genus is popular worldwide because of the showy flowers and hardiness of many kinds. There are over 60,000 registered cultivars. Hundreds of cultivars have fragrant flowers, and more scented cultivars are appearing more frequently in northern hybridization programs. Some cultivars rebloom later in the season, particularly if their capsules, in which seeds are developing, are removed.
Most kinds of Daylilies occur as clumps, each of which has leaves, a crown, flowers, and roots. The long, linear lanceolate leaves are grouped into opposite fans with arching leaves. The crown is the small white portion between the leaves and the roots. Along the scape of some kinds of daylilies, small leafy “proliferations” form at nodes or in bracts. A proliferation forms roots when planted and is often an exact clone of its parent plant. Many kinds of daylilies have thickened roots in which they store food and water.
A normal, single daylily flower has three petals and three sepals, collectively called tepals, each with a midrib in the same or in a contrasting color. The centermost part of the flower, called the throat, usually has a different color than more distal areas of its tepals. Each flower usually has six stamens, each with a two-lobed anther. After successful pollination, a flower forms a capsule (often erroneously called a pod).
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See Also …
Daylily Growing Information
Daylily Plant Care Guide
Vaccinium – Bearberry, Bilberry, Blueberry, Burren Myrtle, Cowberry, Cranberry, Craneberry, Crowberry, Dyeberry, Farkleberry, Huckleberry, Hurtleberry, Lingberry, Lingonberry, Partridgeberry, Sparkleberry, Whinberry, Whortleberry, Wineberry
Vaccinium /vækˈsɪniəm/[2] is a genus of shrubs or dwarf shrubs in the plant Family Ericaceae. The fruit of many species are eaten by humans and some are of commercial importance, including the cranberry, blueberry, bilberry or whortleberry, lingonberry or cowberry, and huckleberry. Like many other ericaceous plants, they are generally restricted to acidic soils.
Vaccinium macrocarpon (also called Large cranberry, American Cranberry and Bearberry) is a cranberry of the subgenus Oxycoccus and genus Vaccinium. It is native to North America (eastern Canada, and eastern United States, south to North Carolina at high altitudes).
Cranberries are a group of evergreen dwarf shrubs or trailing vines in the subgenus Oxycoccus of the genus Vaccinium. In some methods of classification, Oxycoccus is regarded as a genus in its own right.[1] They can be found in acidic bogs throughout the cooler regions of the northern hemisphere.
Cranberries are low, creeping shrubs or vines up to 2 metres (7 ft) long and 5 to 20 centimetres (2 to 8 in) in height;[2] they have slender, wiry stems that are not thickly woody and have small evergreen leaves. The flowers are dark pink, with very distinct reflexed petals, leaving the style and stamens fully exposed and pointing forward. They are pollinated by bees. The fruit is a berry that is larger than the leaves of the plant; it is initially white, but turns a deep red when fully ripe. It is edible, with an acidic taste that can overwhelm its sweetness.
Cranberries are a major commercial crop in certain American states and Canadian provinces (see cultivation and uses below). Most cranberries are processed into products such as juice, sauce, jam, and sweetened dried cranberries, with the remainder sold fresh to consumers. Cranberry sauce is regarded as an indispensable part of traditional American and Canadian Thanksgiving menus and some European winter festivals.[3]
Since the early 21st century within the global functional food industry, raw cranberries have been marketed as a “superfruit” due to their nutrient content and antioxidant qualities.[4][5]
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DESCRIPTION:This group consists of about 450 species of evergreen and deciduous shrubs found over the cooler areas of the Northern Hemisphere and in the mountains of South America. Some kinds are grown for the beauty of their fall leaves and some for their attractive flowers and deliciously edible fruits. Many different names have been given to the numerous varieties that produce edible fruits, such as Blueberry, Bilberry, Cowberry, Cranberry, Crowberry; Farkleberry, Lingonberry, Partridgeberry, Huckleberry (not the true Huckleberry, which is Gaylussacia), Whortleberry, and Sparkleberry to mention a few. For others, check in the varieties section underneath the Blueberry varieties. The other varieties need basically the same care and soil pH as Blueberries.
Read More Here @ Botany.com
Welcome to the Genome Database for Vaccinium here
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Blueberries ~ Botanical name: Vaccinium
Plant type: Fruit
USDA Hardiness Zones: 3, 4, 5, 6, 7
Sun exposure: Full Sun
Soil type: Any
Soil pH: Acidic
The modern blueberry is a 20th century invention. Before the 1900s, the only way to enjoy these North American natives was to find them in the wild. Then, scientists started to unlock the secrets of cultivating blueberries, and we’re glad they did! Plump, juicy berries are now easy to grow in your backyard on bushes that are resistant to most pests and diseases, and can produce for up to 20 years. A relative of rhododendron and azalea, blueberry bushes are also an attractive addition to your overall landscape, offering scarlet fall foliage and creamy white spring flowers.
There are three types of blueberries: highbush, lowbush and hybrid half-high. The most commonly planted blueberry is the highbush. Most blueberry breeding has focused on this species, so there are many varieties that range widely in cold hardiness and fruit season, size, and flavor. See more about blueberry varieties below.
Planting
- Blueberries are picky about soil. They require one that is acidic, high in organic matter, and well-drained yet moist. pH should ideally be between 4 and 5.
- Bushes should be planted in the early spring. If available, one to three-year-old plants are a good choice. Be sure to go to a reputable nursery.
- Dig holes about 20 inches deep and 18 inches wide.
- Space bushes about 5 feet apart.
- Apply fertilizer one month after planting, not at time of planting.
Care
- Mulch to keep shallow blueberry root systems moist, which is essential. Apply a 2-4 inch layer of woodchips, saw dust or pine needles after planting.
- Supply one to two inches of water per week.
- For the first four years after planting, there is no need to prune blueberry bushes. From then on, pruning is needed to stimulate growth of the new shoots that will bear fruit the following season.
- Drape netting over ripening blueberries, so that the birds won’t make away with the entire crop.
- Prune plants in late winter, preferably just before growth begins.
- On highbush varieties, begin with large cuts, removing wood that is more than six years old, drooping to the ground, or crowding the center of the bush. Also remove low-growing branches whose fruit will touch the ground, as well as spindly twigs.
- Prune lowbush blueberries by cutting all stems to ground level. Pruned plants will not bear the season following pruning, so prune a different half of a planting every two years (or a different third of a planting every three years).
- Do not allow the bush to produce fruit for the first couple of years. Pinch back blossoms, this will help to stimulate growth.
Pests
- Birds
- Blueberry Maggot
- Powdery Mildew
Harvest/Storage
- Blueberries will be ready for picking in late July-mid August.
- Don’t rush to pick the berries as soon as they turn blue. Wait a couple days. When they are ready, they should fall off right into your hand.
- Be aware that full production is reached after about 6 years.
- Blueberries are one of the easiest fruits to freeze. Wash, dry thoroughly, and pop them in the freezer in a plastic container with a lid or a plastic bag. You’ll have berries all winter long.
Recommended Varieties
Blueberries are partially self-fertile, so you will harvest more and larger berries by planting two or more varieties. Planting more than one variety can also extend the harvest season.
Highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum): A six-foot shrub adapted from Zone 4 to Zone 7. For withstanding cold winters, choose ‘Bluecrop’, ‘Blueray’, ‘Herbert’, ‘Jersey’, or ‘Meader’. For big berries, choose ‘Berkeley’, ‘Bluecrop’, ‘Blueray’, ‘Coville’, ‘Darrow’, or ‘Herbert’. For flavor, usually the main reason for growing your own fruit, choose ‘Blueray’, ‘Darrow’, ‘Herbert’, ‘Ivanhoe’, ‘Pioneer’, ‘Stanley’, or ‘Wareham’.
Lowbush (V. angustifolium):For the coldest climates, lowbush varieties are your best bet, adapted from Zone 3 to Zone 7. These are the blueberries you find in cans on supermarket shelves. When fresh, the fruits are sweet and covered with a waxy bloom so thick that the berries appear sky blue or gray. The creeping plants, a foot or so high, are spread by underground stems, or rhizomes. They blanket the rocky upland soils of the Northeast and adjacent portions of Canada. Lowbush blueberries make a nice ornamental fruiting ground cover. Plants sold by nurseries are usually seedlings or unnamed wild plants, rather than named varieties.
Half-High: Breeders have combined qualities of highbush and lowbush blueberries into hybrids known as half-high blueberries. University of Minnesota introductions include ‘Northcountry’, a variety that grows 18 to 24 inches high and has excellent, mild-flavored, slightly aromatic sky-blue fruits; and ‘Northblue’, which grows 20 to 30 inches high and produces an abundance of dark-blue, nickel-size, somewhat tart fruits-just right for pies. ‘Northland’ is a half-high-3 to 4 feet-from Michigan, with bland, average-quality fruit.
Recipes
Wit & Wisdom
In Ireland, baskets of blueberries are still offered to a sweetheart in commemoration of the original fertility festival of Lammas Day, celebrated on August 1.
Blueberries – Growing Tips
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Cranberries
Vaccinium macrocarpon Aiton cranberry
Vaccinium macrocarpon – Aiton.
American Cranberry (Vaccinium macrocarpon)
Butterbur ~ Petasites hybridus Plant Care Guide
Common Butterbur (Petasites hybridus) is a herbaceous perennial plant in the family Asteraceae, native to Europe and northern Asia. The flowers are produced in the early spring, before the leaves appear; they are pale pink, with several inflorescences clustered on a 5–20 cm stem. The leaves are large, on stout 80–120 cm tall stems, round, with a diameter of 40–70 cm.
It is also called Bog rhubarb, Devil’s hat and Pestilence wort. Synonyms include P. officinalis, P. ovatus and P. vulgaris.
The herbalist Nicholas Culpeper called it “a great preserver of the heart and reviver of the spirits”. Its many uses in folk medicine include applications as a diuretic and muscle relaxant, and to treat coughs, fever, wounds, stammering, headaches, asthma and stress. Not all of these uses are supported by scientific research.
Preliminary trials have shown a preparation of Butterbur root to be effective in reducing the frequency and severity of migraine attacks.[1] A commercial extract Petasol butenoate complex (Ze 339) has proved helpful for allergic rhinitis[2][3] An evidence-based 2005 systematic review including written and statistical analysis of scientific literature, expert opinion, folkloric precedent, history, pharmacology, kinetics/dynamics, interactions, adverse effects, toxicology, and dosing is available from the Natural Standard Research Collaboration.
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How to Grow Butterbur
The butterbur (petasites hybridus) is a perennial plant with Asian origins. It is best known for it’s herbal qualities. Root extracts from the plant are often used to treat pain, spasms, fever, migraines and asthma. Another common name for the butterbur plant is “sweet coltsfoot.” The plant grows best in wet marshy soil. The butterbur blooms in the spring and grows lush foliage in the summer months. The plant thrives in U.S. Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zone 4 to 9. On average, the plant grows up to 3 feet wide and 9 feet tall.
1 Locate a spot that is well moistened to plant your butterbur seeds. For best results, the planting location should be lightly shaded or partially shaded. Be sure the area has enough room for your butterbur to spread and grow.
2 Check the planting location to ensure the soil has a pH level ranging from 5.6 to 7.8. The soil can be of a sandy, loamy or clay make-up.
3 Plant your butterbur seeds in a hole that is ¼ to ½ inch deep. Cover your seeds with soil.
4 Plant the remainder of your butterbur seeds. When planting, leave at least 5 feet of space between each hole. The extra space is needed because the butterbur is a wide spreading plant. The leaves alone can extend up to 2 feet wide. Once it starts to grow, it rapidly spreads throughout your garden.
5 Feed your butterbur a dose of fertilizer once every 25 days during the summer months. Be sure the fertilizer is has the proper balance of nitrogen, phosporus and potassium. For maximum growth, use a fertilizer ratio of 16-4-8.
6 Water your butterbur plant once every two to three weeks to ensure the soil remains moist. If the soil still dries out between waterings, more frequent waterings are necessary.
Things You Will Need
- Fertilizer
- Water
Warning
- Only butterbur root extract that has been chemically processed and detoxified can be safely consumed internally. Otherwise, all parts of the plant are highly poisonous and should never be internally consumed.
References
- National Center For Complimentary & Alternative Medicine: Butterbur
- Plants For A Future: Petasites Hybridus
- Environmental Graffiti: Butterbur – The Versatile Plant with a Rich History in Herblore
- Brians Botanicals: Petasites Hybridus
- Dave’s Garden: Plantfiles – Japanese Butterbur
- Wild Chicken: Petasites Hybridus
- American Headache Society: Information For Health Care Professionals
About the Author
Faizah Imani, an educator, minister and published author, has worked with clients such as Harrison House Author, Thomas Weeks III, Candle Of Prayer Company and “Truth & Church Magazine.” Her dossier includes JaZaMM WebDesigns, assistant high-school band director, district manager for the Clarion Ledger and event coordinator for the Vicksburg Convention Center.
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See Also …
Butterbur: The Versatile Plant with a Rich History in Herblore
herbs2000.com
Petasites hybridus –
How to Grow Butterbur
herbs at a glance
Sneezeweed ~ Helenium autumnale Plant Care Guide
Helenium autumnale is a flowering plant native to North America. Common names include common sneezeweed and large-flowered sneezeweed.
This plant is found throughout the contiguous mainland United States and most of Canada.
Common sneezeweed grows up to a meter tall. In late summer and fall, it bears daisylike flower heads with notched, recurved ray florets.
Common sneezeweed is cultivated as a garden perennial. There are multiple named varieties varying in color and height. ‘Pumilum Magnificum’ is a yellow variety about two feet tall. ‘Bruno’, a reddish brown cultivar, ‘Kupfersprudel’, which is yellow/orange, and ‘Butterpat’, which is golden, all grow 3 to 3.5 feet tall. ‘Chippersfield Orange’ is up to 4 feet tall and is orange streaked with gold.
How to Grow Sneezeweed
Overview
Sneezeweed is the common name for the plant species Helenium autumnale. The leaves were once dried and inhaled to induce sneezing and cast evil spirits from the body, which is how the plant came by its common name. Sneezeweed is a perennial herb that grows to about 4 feet in height and produces flowers in the spring which can be yellow, red or bronze. It lives for four to five years, and requires little care to grow in most temperate environments.
1 Plant sneezeweed seeds during spring in a location that receives full sunlight and has fertile, well-drained soil. Spread 2 inches of organic compost over the planting site, and use a tiller to incorporate it into the soil to increase drainage, water retention and fertility.
2 Sow the seeds about 2 inches deep and cover with soil. Water lightly to compact the moist soil around the seeds. Continue to water once per week until germination has occurred and the sprouts emerge from the ground. Space plants about 12 inches apart to prevent crowding.
3 Water sneezeweed twice per week after emergence. Never allow the soil to dry out, or the plant will quickly wilt. Soak the soil completely during each watering to ensure it is holding as much moisture as possible.
4 Feed sneezeweed with a balanced slow release fertilizer once every spring, just before growth begins. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for proper application and dosage. Water thoroughly before and after applying to prevent root burn.
5 Remove any dead flowers as soon as possible to encourage the plant to focus on flowering instead of forming seeds. Cut sneezeweed plants back to half height in late June to make the foliage thicker and increase flower production the following spring.
6 Spread a 6-inch layer of hay over sneezeweed plants just after the first frost of winter. This will insulate the soil and prevent continual freezing and thawing cycles, which can damage the plant. Remove the hay in early spring to allow growth to resume.
Things You’ll Need
- Organic compost
- Tiller
- Fertilizer
- Hay
References
- Book: Taylor’s 50 Best Perennials for Sun; Frances Tenenbaum; 1999
- Book: The Sunny Border; C. Colston Burrell; 2002
- Book: Carefree Plants Guide; Reader’s Digest; 2002
About this Author
Willow Sidhe is a freelance writer living in the beautiful Hot Springs, AR. She is a certified aromatherapist with a background in herbalism. She has extensive experience gardening, with a specialty in indoor plants and herbs. Sidhe’s work has been published on numerous Web sites, including Gardenguides.com.
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Helenium autumnale L.Common sneezeweed, Fall sneezeweed, Autumn sneezeweed
Purple-Headed Sneezeweed
Apache plume (Fallugia paradoxa) Plant Care Guide
Fallugia is a monotypic genus of shrub containing the single species Fallugia paradoxa, which is known by the common names Apache plume and ponil. This plant is native to the southwestern United States and northern Mexico, where it is found in arid habitats such as desert woodlands and scrub.
Fallugia paradoxa, the Apache plume, is an erect shrub not exceeding two meters in height. It has light gray or whitish peeling bark on its many thin branches. The leaves are each about a centimeter long and deeply lobed with the edges rolled under. The upper surface of the leaf is green and hairy and the underside is duller in color and scaly.
The flower of the shrub is roselike when new, with rounded white petals and a center filled with many thready stamens and pistils. The ovary of the flower remains after the white petals fall away, leaving many plumelike lavender styles, each 3 to 5 centimeters long. The plant may be covered with these dark pinkish clusters of curling, feathery styles after flowering. Each style is attached to a developing fruit, which is a small achene. The fruit is dispersed when the wind catches the styles and blows them away.
The Fallugia paradoxa plant is considered valuable for erosion control in desert areas where it grows.
External links
- Jepson Manual Treatment – Fallugia paradoxa
- USDA Plants Profile; Fallugia paradoxa
- Ecology
- Fallugia paradoxa – Photo gallery
How to Grow Apache Plume
The Apache plume (Fallugia paradoxa) is most identifiable by its purplish-pink featherlike seed heads that appear on the heels of tiny white spring blooms. This extremely drought-tolerant shrub belongs to the Rosaceae, or rose, family. Its mature height is 6 feet with an equal spread. It is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 10. Landscape uses for the Apache plume include mass plantings, xeriscapes, hedges and borders.
1 Plant the Apache plume in a south or west portion of your landscape that receives the warmest temperatures. Choose a spot that receives full, direct sunlight and contains extremely well-draining, sandy soil. Space the plant 6 feet away from other vegetation.
2 Water young, newly planted Apache plumes once a week. Flood the soil surrounding the shrub with a garden hose. Reduce supplemental watering once the shrub becomes established and starts to produce new foliage and stems. Water mature, established shrubs once a month during hot summer months and periods of no rainfall
3 Fertilize the Apache plume in the early spring when the plant is no longer dormant and new leaves begin to emerge. Apply a 10-10-10 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) slow-release fertilizer at a rate of 1 tablespoon per square foot of soil. Spread the fertilizer evenly in a ring around the shrub, just outside the perimeter of the plant’s branches. Mix the fertilizer granules into the top 1 to 3 inches of soil using a rake. Water the area thoroughly to activate the fertilizer.
4 Prune the Apache plume in the late winter while it is still dormant. Cut out any broken, damaged or diseased stems using a pair of pruning shears. Make each cut 1/4 inch above a growth node or dormant bud. Thin the plant by no more than one-third, removing the oldest stems first.
5 Trim the shrub in the early summer after it flowers. Clip back any excessive long or straggly stems to shape the plant and keep it looking presentable.
Things You Will Need
- Garden hose
- 10-10-10 low-release fertilizer
- Rake
- Pruning shears
Tip
- Plant Apache plume with other drought-tolerant plants to create a low-water section in your landscape.
References
- Taylor’s Guide to Shrubs: How to Select and Grow More Than 500 Ornamental and Useful Shrubs for Privacy, Ground Covers, and Specimen Plantings; Kathleen Fisher
- Native Trees, Shrubs, and Vines: A Guide to Using, Growing, and Propagating North American Woody Plants; William Cullina
- Colorado State University Extension: Apache Plume
- Texas A&M University Aggie Horticulture: Apache Plume, Ponil
About the Author
Jessica Westover began writing professionally in 2010. She has worked at various greenhouse production facilities and more recently as a personal banking assistant for Zions Bank. Westover graduated from Brigham Young University Idaho in 2005 with a Bachelor of Science in horticulture and a minor in accounting.
Photo Credits
- Jupiterimages/Comstock/Getty Images
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See Also ….
Apache Plume (Fallugia paradoxa)
Fallugia paradoxa
Fallugia paradoxa (D. Don) Endl. ex Torr. Apache plume, Ponil Rosaceae (Rose Family)
California Lilac ~ Ceanothus thyrsiflorus Plant Care Guide
Ceanothus thyrsiflorus, known as blueblossom or blue blossom ceanothus, is an evergreen shrub in the genus Ceanothus that is endemic to California. The term ‘Californian lilac’ is also applied to this and other varieties of ceanothus, though it is not closely related to Syringa, the true lilac.
C. thyrsiflorus can grow more than 6 m (20 ft) tall in its native chaparral habitat. Flowers vary from different shades of blue to close to white. It is popular with birds, butterflies, and other pollinators.
Cultivars
C. thyrsiflorus has been used in gardens extensively, and several cultivars have been selected. Popular garden varieties include:-
- ‘Blue Mound’ which can grow to 1.5 m (4 ft 11 in) tall
- ‘Cascade’ which may reach 8 m (26 ft) of height
- ‘El Dorado’, a variegated cultivar with gold edge foliage and powder blue flowers[1]
- ‘Repens’ which stays as a shrub around 1–3 m (3 ft 3 in–9 ft 10 in) tall
- ‘Repens Victoria’, forming a sturdy evergreen mound and most useful groundcover with powder blue flowers
- ‘Skylark’, a tall type with blue flowers (this cultivar has gained the Royal Horticultural Society‘s Award of Garden Merit)[2]
- ‘Snow Flurry’, with white flowers
See also
- California chaparral and woodlands
- California montane chaparral and woodlands
- California native plants
How to Care for California Lilac Shrubs
You guessed it — the California lilac (Ceanothus spp.) is native to California. Known also as blue blossom or mountain lilac, it is perfect for the gardener who tends to neglect the garden a bit. However, to ensure that your California lilac thrives, give it some care and attention, especially in the first growing season and during hot weather. Then enjoy its annual spring and summer display of colorful flowers for years to come. Most California lilacs grow well in U.S. Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zones 8 through 10.
1. Water a California lilac one or two times a week with 1 inch of water for its first growing season. For more drought-tolerant varieties, such as Ceanothus thyrsiflorus, gradually reduce how frequently you water it during the second year; in subsequent years, water these varieties once every three or four weeks. Water other California lilacs, such as Ceanothus maritimus, about once a week, especially during hot weather.
2. Clip off blooms after they fade to keep the shrub tidy. Cut back new growth to healthy leaf sets while it is actively growing to control the shrub’s size. Do not cut branches that are more than 1 inch in diameter.
3. Fertilize California lilac every spring just as the leaf buds begin to swell. Use an all-purpose fertilizer, such as 10-10-10. Apply no more than the amount specified by the manufacturer, sprinkling it evenly under the shrub’s canopy, then water in the fertilizer with 1 inch of water.
4. Examine your shrub occasionally, looking for signs of insects and their damage, such as aphids on the underside of the leaves or browning leaf tips. Prune affected branches in small infestations to a set of healthy leaves and discard. Treat heavier infestations with an appropriate organic/natural remedy.
Things You Will Need
- Garden hose
- Pruning shears
- Fertilizer
Tip
- California lilacs do not like wet feet or standing water, so plant in soil that drains well.
- If your soil is rich in organic matter and your California lilac grows well without it, do not fertilize.
References
- Learn2Grow: Ceanothus Thyrsiflorus
- Oregon State University Extension Service: Blueblossom
- Monrovia: Ceanothus
- Washington State University: Ceanothus, Commonly Known as California Lilac
- Washington State University: Blue Blossom
Resources
About the Author
Melissa Lewis is a former elementary classroom teacher and media specialist. She has also written for various online publications. Lewis holds a Bachelor of Arts in psychology from the University of Maryland Baltimore County.
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See Also ….
Ceanothus thyrsiflorus Eschsch. Blue blossom, Blueblossom, Bluebrush Rhamnaceae (Buckthorn Family)
Ceanothus thyrsiflorus var. repens AGM
California Lilacs (Ceanothus spp.)
Ceanothus thyrsiflorus Growing Profile
Cannas ~ Canna x generalis Plant Care Guide
How to videos in comments till wordpress allows me to publish videos in posts
Canna (or canna lily, although not a true lily) is a genus of nineteen species of flowering plants.[2][3][4] The closest living relations to cannas are the other plant families of the order Zingiberales, that is the Zingiberaceae (gingers), Musaceae (bananas), Marantaceae, Heliconiaceae, Strelitziaceae, etc.[5]
Canna is the only genus in the family Cannaceae. The APG II system of 2003 (unchanged from the APG system, 1998) also recognizes the family, and assigns it to the order Zingiberales in the clade commelinids, in the monocots.
The species have large, attractive foliage and horticulturists have turned it into a large-flowered and bright garden plant. In addition, it is one of the world’s richest starch sources, and is an agricultural plant.[5]
Although a plant of the tropics, most cultivars have been developed in temperate climates and are easy to grow in most countries of the world as long as they can enjoy at least 6–8 hours average sunlight during the summer, and are moved to a warm location for the winter. See the Canna cultivar gallery for photographs of Canna cultivars.
The name Canna originates from the Celtic word for a cane or reed.[6][7]
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Botanical name: Canna x generalis
Plant type: Flower
USDA Hardiness Zones: 8, 9, 10, 11
Sun exposure: Full Sun
Soil type: Any, Sandy, Loamy, Clay
Flower color: Red, Pink, Orange, Yellow, White
Cannas are among the most colorful summer bulbs—as flamboyant as their tropical American ancestry—with ruffled spikes tapering to refined buds.
These perennials come in a vast variety of color and boast immense, often-veined, paddle-shaped leaves and sheathing leafstalks in shades of green or bronze.
With their great reedy canes and palmy foliage, cannas would be magnificent even if they never bloomed. However, they keep blossoming from late spring or early summer to frost.
Turn-of-the-century gardeners so loved cannas that they grew them from seed but this isn’t easy; better to leave propagation to experts and buy the tubers.
Planting
- Exotic, tropical creatures, cannas need lots of sunshine and fertile, moist soil but you don’t have to pamper them.
- Cannas can be started in the house in small pots if your gardening season is short.
- Where not hardy, plant outdoors in early summer—around the same time you’d put in tomato plants.
- To plant, loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.
- Dig a hole 2 to 3 inches deep and set the rhizome in the hole, eyes up.
- Cover with soil and tamp firmly. Water thoroughly.
- Space rhizomes 1 to 4 feet apart.
- If you grow from seed, note that the germination rate is low and the seeds need to be filed or given an acid bath to break down their hard coat.
Care
- Cannas do best with a good supply of water, so water the plants during the summer if the rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. Water freely in a dry spell.
- Keep a thin layer of mulch around cannas to help retain moisture as well.
- Stake tall varieties if needed.
- As flowers fade, deadhead to promote continued flowering.
- After autumn frost blackens the foliage, remove the stems and leaves, and lift the rhizomes for winter storage. Store in barely-moist peat or leaf mold in frost-free conditions. Space rhizomes so that they are not touching.
- In the lower South, let cannas grow without moving them, until the clumps grow very matted. Every 3 to 4 years in the winter, dig up the clumps, separate the roots, and plant them in well-enriched soil.
Pests
- Slugs, snails, spider mites, and caterpillars may be problems.
- Rust, fungal leaf spot, and bacterial blight are common.
- Bean yellow mosaic and tomato spotted wilt viruses can occur.
Harvest/Storage
- Store cannas over the winter in a dry place at 45 to 50 degrees F. Don’t let them dry out; sprinkle the sand or soil around them, if necessary.
- In the spring, cut the tubers apart with a sharp knife so that each piece contains one eye on a substantial piece of rootstock.
Recommended Varieties
- Dwarf cannas stay under 3 feet tall and are easy to fit into our downsized modern gardens. The 2-1/2-foot-tall ‘Picasso’ is a yellow-flowered dwarf peppered with freckles.
- Standard varieties grow 4 to 6 feet tall and need a 20- to 24-inch circle for each hand-size rhizome. ‘The President’ is is red, ‘Yellow King Humbert’ spotless, ‘Rosamond Cole’ orange-edged gold, and ‘City of Portland’ salmon pink.
- Many gardeners love the spectacular, drought-tolerant varieties that reach heights of over 6 feet. One gem is the rich, deep pink ‘Los Angeles’, which has a large floret and opens out so that you can see the face.
- ‘Bengal Tiger’ is stunning even when it’s not blooming with green-and-yellow-striped, maroon-edged leaves and bright-orange flowers.
Wit & Wisdom
Flowers are words which even a babe may understand.
–Arthur Cleveland Coxe, American poet (1818-96)
Zingiber officinale ~ Ginger Plant Care Guide
Ginger or ginger root is the rhizome of the plant Zingiber officinale, consumed as a delicacy, medicine, or spice. It lends its name to its genus and family (Zingiberaceae). Other notable members of this plant family are turmeric, cardamom, and galangal.
Ginger cultivation began in South Asia and has since spread to East Africa and the Caribbean.[2]
History ~ Herbal Remedies and more here at original link
Growing Ginger Root ~ Zingiber Officinale (True Ginger)
Growing Ginger
How to Grow Edible Ginger Root
How to plant and grow vanilla
Vanilla, the vanilla orchids, form a flowering plant genus of about 110 species in the orchid family (Orchidaceae). The most widely known member is the Flat-leaved Vanilla (V. planifolia), from which commercial vanilla flavoring is derived. It is the only orchid widely used for industrial purposes (in the food industry and in the cosmetic industry). Another species often grown commercially but not on an industrial scale is the Pompona Vanilla (V. pompona).
This evergreen genus occurs worldwide in tropical and subtropical regions, from tropical America to tropical Asia, New Guinea and West Africa. It was known to the Aztecs for its flavoring qualities. The genus was established in 1754 by Plumier, based on J. Miller. The word vanilla, derived from the diminutive of the Spanish word vaina (vaina itself meaning sheath or pod), simply translates as little pod.
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