Sneezeweed ~ Helenium autumnale Plant Care Guide
Helenium autumnale is a flowering plant native to North America. Common names include common sneezeweed and large-flowered sneezeweed.
This plant is found throughout the contiguous mainland United States and most of Canada.
Common sneezeweed grows up to a meter tall. In late summer and fall, it bears daisylike flower heads with notched, recurved ray florets.
Common sneezeweed is cultivated as a garden perennial. There are multiple named varieties varying in color and height. ‘Pumilum Magnificum’ is a yellow variety about two feet tall. ‘Bruno’, a reddish brown cultivar, ‘Kupfersprudel’, which is yellow/orange, and ‘Butterpat’, which is golden, all grow 3 to 3.5 feet tall. ‘Chippersfield Orange’ is up to 4 feet tall and is orange streaked with gold.
How to Grow Sneezeweed
Overview
Sneezeweed is the common name for the plant species Helenium autumnale. The leaves were once dried and inhaled to induce sneezing and cast evil spirits from the body, which is how the plant came by its common name. Sneezeweed is a perennial herb that grows to about 4 feet in height and produces flowers in the spring which can be yellow, red or bronze. It lives for four to five years, and requires little care to grow in most temperate environments.
1 Plant sneezeweed seeds during spring in a location that receives full sunlight and has fertile, well-drained soil. Spread 2 inches of organic compost over the planting site, and use a tiller to incorporate it into the soil to increase drainage, water retention and fertility.
2 Sow the seeds about 2 inches deep and cover with soil. Water lightly to compact the moist soil around the seeds. Continue to water once per week until germination has occurred and the sprouts emerge from the ground. Space plants about 12 inches apart to prevent crowding.
3 Water sneezeweed twice per week after emergence. Never allow the soil to dry out, or the plant will quickly wilt. Soak the soil completely during each watering to ensure it is holding as much moisture as possible.
4 Feed sneezeweed with a balanced slow release fertilizer once every spring, just before growth begins. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for proper application and dosage. Water thoroughly before and after applying to prevent root burn.
5 Remove any dead flowers as soon as possible to encourage the plant to focus on flowering instead of forming seeds. Cut sneezeweed plants back to half height in late June to make the foliage thicker and increase flower production the following spring.
6 Spread a 6-inch layer of hay over sneezeweed plants just after the first frost of winter. This will insulate the soil and prevent continual freezing and thawing cycles, which can damage the plant. Remove the hay in early spring to allow growth to resume.
Things You’ll Need
- Organic compost
- Tiller
- Fertilizer
- Hay
References
- Book: Taylor’s 50 Best Perennials for Sun; Frances Tenenbaum; 1999
- Book: The Sunny Border; C. Colston Burrell; 2002
- Book: Carefree Plants Guide; Reader’s Digest; 2002
About this Author
Willow Sidhe is a freelance writer living in the beautiful Hot Springs, AR. She is a certified aromatherapist with a background in herbalism. She has extensive experience gardening, with a specialty in indoor plants and herbs. Sidhe’s work has been published on numerous Web sites, including Gardenguides.com.
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Helenium autumnale L.Common sneezeweed, Fall sneezeweed, Autumn sneezeweed
Purple-Headed Sneezeweed
Cilantro vs Culantro ;) ~ How to Grow Either/or Both
Coriandrum sativum
Outside of Latin communities these two herbs are often confused. Erngium foetidum (culantro) is related to the Sea Holly flower species.
Coriandrum sativum (cilantro ~ coriander) is also called chinese parsley, totally different genus, same family. The leaves are called cilantro and are often confused with culantro. The seeds are the coriander.
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Eryngium foetidum ~ culantro, shado beni
Eryngium foetidum is a tropical perennial and annual herb in the family Apiaceae. Common names include culantro, Mexican coriander and long coriander. It is native to Mexico and South America, but is cultivated worldwide. In the United States, where it is not well known outside Latino communities, the name culantro sometimes causes confusion with Coriandrum sativum (also in Apiaceae), the leaves of which are known as cilantro, and which culantro is said to taste like.[1]
also a medicinal plant click here for more info @ original link
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coriander/cilantro flowers
Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), also known as cilantro, Chinese parsley or dhania,[1] is an annual herb in the family Apiaceae. Coriander is native to regions spanning from southern Europe and North Africa to southwestern Asia. It is a soft, hairless plant growing to 50 cm (20 in) tall. The leaves are variable in shape, broadly lobed at the base of the plant, and slender and feathery higher on the flowering stems. The flowers are borne in small umbels, white or very pale pink, asymmetrical, with the petals pointing away from the centre of the umbel longer (5–6 mm) than those pointing towards it (only 1–3 mm long). The fruit is a globular, dry schizocarp 3–5 mm (0.12–0.20 in) in diameter.
click here for more information @ original link
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Coriander and Cilantro Plant Care Guide @ Old Farmer’s
Growing Culantro @ Bonnie Plants
See Also …
Culantro: A Much Utilized, Little Understood Herb
Christopher Ramcharan
Narrowleaf Stoneseed, Hoary Puccoon, Fringed Gromwell ~ Lithospermum incisum Plant Care Guide
Family Boraginaceae
Lithospermum incisum Lehm. fringed puccoon, narrow-leaved gromwell, narrow-leaved puccoon
Lithospermum: from Greek lithos, “stone,” and sperma, “seed”incisum: cut
Plant: erect, perennial, 4″-20″ tall forb with many branches; woody taproot Flower: pale yellow, 5-parted, 1/3″-3/4″ wide, funnel-shaped, petal lips fringed; inflorescence with short-stalked flowers crowded in the upper leaf axils; blooms May-June
Fruit: white, shiny nutlet with a few pits many, long, narrow, grass-like
Habitat: dry; prairies, barrens; in rocky, sandy soil
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Hoary Puccoon
Lithospermum canescens
Boraginaceae (Borage family)
Description: This native perennial plant is about ½-1½’ tall, branching occasionally. It has a tendency to sprawl across the ground. The stems are covered with long white hairs. The leaves have sparse white hairs on their uppersides, ciliate hairs along their margins, and a white pubescence on their undersides. These characteristics give the plant a slightly hoary aspect, hence its name. The alternate leaves are about 1-2″ long and ¼-¾” wide, with a prominent central vein, and absence of serration along the margins. They are oblong or oblanceolate, with rounded tips, and are sessile at the base.
The flowers occur in showy clusters at the ends of major stems. They are bright yellow or yellowish orange, narrowly tubular, with 5 rounded lobes that flare abruptly outward. Each flower is about ½” across and has no noticeable floral scent. The blooming period occurs during late spring and lasts about a month. The root system consists of a central taproot.
Cultivation: The preference is full-sun in mesic to dry conditions. The soil can contain significant amounts of loam, gravel, or sand. It has a reputation of being difficult to germinate from seed. Nonetheless, this puccoon is probably the easiest to grow in the average wildflower garden if transplants can be obtained.
Range & Habitat: Hoary Puccoon occurs throughout Illinois, except in some SE areas of the state (see Distribution Map). This plant is found occasionally in high quality habitats, such as virgin prairie remnants, otherwise it is rare or absent. Habitats include mesic to dry black soil prairies, sand prairies, hill prairies, Bur
Oak savannas, sandy Black Oak savannas, and limestone glades. This is the most common Lithospermum sp. in Illinois.
Faunal Associations: The flowers attract long-tongued bees, butterflies, and skippers primarily. Among the bees, are such visitors as bumblebees, Miner bees, Nomadine Cuckoo bees, and Mason bees. Some spring-season bee flies visit the flowers, including Bombylius major (Giant Bee Fly). Among the skippers, Erynnis spp. (Duskywings) and Pholisora catyllus (Common Sootywing) are attracted to the yellow flowers of this plant. There is little information available regarding Hoary Puccoon’s relation to birds and mammals. Because the leaves are not known to be toxic, it seems likely that they are eaten by such animals as groundhogs and rabbits.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at Loda Cemetery Prairie in Iroquois County, Illinois.
Comments: The flowers are really bright and conspicuous, but remain on the plant for some time even after they turn brown. The word ‘puccoon’ means that this plant was once the source of a dye – a reddish color that was used by Amerindians for pottery, basketry, and personal ornament in various ceremonies.
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See Also …
Narrow Leaf Gromwell
Keeping a Low Profile in the Spring ~ Prairie Ecologist
Trout Lily (Erythronium) Planting Guide
Golden Bells, Woodland Glories, Dog Tooth Violets, Fawn Lilies – Whatever You Call them Name, They’re Wonderful Woodland Plants
Brighten a woodland section of your yard next spring with an out of the ordinary touch, trout lilies. These yellow bell flowers with swept back petals sparkle in the April or May, before most of the shade perennials – hostas, bleeding hearts, ferns – have unfurled for the season. Pagoda is a hybrid prized for its extra large blossoms and vigorous nature. Planted in groups of 3 to 5 and scattered throughout light or dappled shade, these little treasures pop up practically overnight, suddenly there in full glory. Savor them for their magical arrival, happy bell-like blooms and unusual variegated foliage.
Curious about the odd names? Dog Tooth lilies comes from the pointed, elongated bulbs that resemble a dog’s canine tooth. Trout Lilies refer to the shape and speckled pattern of the foliage. The other names refer to the flower color and prefered growing site for erythronium.
Outdoor Beds
- Find a location where the soil is evenly moist during the early part of the year when these plants are actively growing. Areas that are a bit drier in summer and fall are fine as dog tooth violets are dormant during those times.
- Site your bulbs where they will receive light to partial shade or dapple shade like the kind found under deciduous trees.
- Plant these bulbs as soon after you receive them as possible as they prefer not to be out of the soil any longer than is necessary. Please do not allow them to dry out. Tuck the bulbs into loosened soil about 5″ deep and 2″ apart, with the pointed end facing upwards.
- After planting, water well settling the soil around the bulbs. Roots will form in the fall. Top growth and flower stems will form in the spring.
- Feel free to clip blossom to bring inside. This will not hurt the plants and will provide pretty stems of bell-shaped flowers for bouquets.
- After blooming has finished for the season leave the foliage in place; don’t cut it off. The leaves will gather sunlight, create food through photosynthesis and strengthen the bulb for the future. Water as needed during active growth periods; about 1″ of moisture per week is a good estimate. Keep in mind that weekly deep waterings are better than lighter drinks every day or two.
- After blooming has finished for the season, clip off any spent flower stems if you like. Your dog tooth violets will slip into dormancy in early to mid summer and disappear from view leaving space for other perennials to leaf out fully. Come next spring, the dog tooth lilies will reappear and over time will gradually developing into big clumps.
Pots, Barrels, Tubs & Urns
Dog tooth violets are best suited to planting in the landscape rather than in containers. These bulbs perform best in sites where they remain undisturbed.
Source ~ easytogrowbulbs.com
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See Also …………
Plants We Love: White Trout Lily (Erythronium albidum)
PlantFiles: Trout Lily, Adder’s-Tongue ~ Erythronium americanum
Erythronium americanum – Ker-Gawl.
Erythronium americanum Ker-Gawl ~ Native Plant Database
Erythronium americanum Ker Gawl. ~ dogtooth violet ~ USDA
Painted Trillium Planting Guide and Types
Trillium Planting
Overview
Trillium flowers bloom during the late spring and summer months. These three-petaled flowers come in hues of white, yellow, crimson or purple. Wildflowers native to North America, trillium makes a rewarding shade plant but takes years to establish and thrive. Plant either from seed or from rhizome in the late summer to early fall.
Growing Environment
Trilliums prefer a rich, moist soil with lots of organic material. These flowers grow well in shady spots and can grow beneath tree canopies. They do best with a pH near neutral or slightly acidic.
Geography
Different types of trillium grow from USDA plant hardiness zones 3 to 8. White trillium (Trillium grandiflorum) grows naturally throughout the northeastern United States and as far south as Georgia, though this flower is endangered in Maine and nearly so in New York. The purple toadshade trillium (Trillium underwoodii) grows in the southeastern United States as far south as Florida.
Planting From Seed
Trillium planted from seed can take up to two years to germinate, according to the Alabama Cooperative Extension Service. Collect seed from trillium flowers in the summer months. Then prepare the ground for planting by digging up the soil in your chosen area, breaking apart soil clumps and removing rocks and other debris from the seed bed. Rake the soil back into an even layer once you’ve dug up and aerated the soil. Dig furrows 1/4- to 1/2-inch deep. Then sow trillium seeds in the furrow, spacing them 1 to 2 inches apart. Cover over the soil and water the seed bed thoroughly. Continue to water it when the soil becomes dry until the seeds germinate.
Planting From Rhizome
Prepare the soil in the same manner when planting trillium from rhizomes. Then dig one hole for each rhizome that’s twice as wide as the rhizome and 2 inches deeper. Space the holes 10 inches apart. Place the rhizome in the hole with the pointy eye facing up. Cover the rhizome with 2 inches of soil. Water the ground until the soil becomes saturated then continue to water during dry periods.
Tips
Trillium patches can take up to 17 years to get established but may live up to 70 years, notes Skidmore College. Amending the soil with lots of compost will help new trillium get established. White-tailed deer graze on white trillium flowers, so avoid planting this flower if your area has an invasive deer population.
Types of Trillium Flowers
The Trillium genus belongs in the lily plant family (Liliaceae) and contains numerous perennials native to the United States. Most trillium species bloom during the spring and early summer. If you would like to grow trillium flowers, select a variety according to your hardiness zone, the plant’s mature size, flower color and intended use.
Green Trillium
Green trillium (Trillium viride) performs well in hardiness zones 5 to 8. This trillium species reaches up to 18 inches in height and spread. Green or yellow-green flowers appear in April and May. Also called the wood trillium, this plant features leafless stems and deep green leaves. The foliage generally dies by the middle of summer. Green trilliums like humus, well-drained soils in partial to full shade positions. Gardeners often use the green trillium in wildflower gardens.
Red Trillium
The red trillium (Trillium erectum), sometimes called the stinking-Benjamin, features diamond-shaped green leaves and stems that range from 6 to 18 inches tall. Solitary, deep red flowers with backward curving petals bloom from April through June. These foul-smelling flowers wither in two or three weeks, giving way to red fruits that attract birds. This perennial typically performs well in hardiness zones 4 to 8. This plant prefers acidic, humus soils in partial shade to full sun locations. Red trillium plants perform well in rich, moist woodland areas.
Pacific Trillium
The pacific trillium (Trillium ovatum ) ranges from 8 to 20 inches in height. This perennial features broad green leaves and long, naked stalks. Flowers display from February through June, featuring white blossoms that fade to pink within a week. This trillium variety also is called the western wakerobin because the flowers bloom around the time that robins appear in the spring. This trillium species prefers cool soils in shady sites. Pacific trillium plants work well planted along streams and moist slopes in hardiness zones 5 to 8.
Nodding Trillium
Nodding trillium plants (Trillium cernuum), also called whip-poor-will flowers, bear large green leaves and arching stems that reach up to 18 inches tall. Nodding, white flowers with pink anthers bloom in May, followed by purple berries that ripen to red. These inedible berries contain toxic principles. Winter hardy in zones 2 to 9, this type of trillium requires moldy, rich soils in shady positions. Gardeners often plant nodding trillium in damp woodland margins.
Painted Trillium
The painted trillium (Trillium undulatum) features a thin, arching stalk that reaches up to 16 inches long. This trillium species bears large, bluish-green leaves and white flowers with pink or purple markings. These blossoms appear from April through June, followed by red berries in the early autumn. Winter hardy to zone 4, the painted trillium tolerates various lighting conditions but prefers acidic, sandy soils. The painted trillium works well planted in moist woodland areas.
Slender Trillium
Slender trillium plants (Trillium gracile), sometimes called graceful trilliums, need moist, acidic soils in shady, undisturbed locations. Winter hardy to zone 6, this trillium variety bears mottled, green leaves and flowers that appear in April. The blossoms emerge a maroon color but turn attractive, yellowish-green shades with age. Mature plants range from 8 to 12 inches in height. Gardeners often plant the slender trillium in woodland gardens.
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See also ….
Painted Trillium (Trillium undulatum) ~ By Larry Stritch
Trillium undulatum Willd. ~ painted trillium
Trillium undulatum – Willd.
Lavender Plant Care Guide
i know i know Lavender doesn’t bloom till June in most regions, but am going to show you how to extend blooming season and also grow in containers … have ulterior motive for Lavender choice also will post later 🙂
Overview
Lavender (Lavandula) varieties grow as fragrant bushes and plants. They’re often dried to form satchels, potpourris, as additives to perfumes and cleaning products, and for dried flower arrangements. Commonly grown in the garden as an ornamental or in containers, the plants require very little care once established. The plants flourish in USDA hardiness zones 4 to 10. A few varieties offer hardiness to Zone 3. Relatively long-lived, the lavender plant averages a 10-year lifespan.
Location Requirements
Lavender requires a sunny location. Plant in an area that receives at least eight hours of sunlight per day. Lavender enjoys dry soil conditions, so make sure there is no standing water accumulation in the planting location in the spring or during other parts of the season. The plants enjoy rocky, sandy or even loamy–rather than chalky–soil conditions to flourish. An area that offers adequate wind protection is ideal, because the flower stalks often break when faced with high winds.
Soil Conditions
Soil that offers abundant organic matter will often limit the flower production of the lavender plant. The added nutrients aid the plant in producing foliage growth instead of flowers. This can limit the plant’s oil production, which makes it less fragrant and less useful when dried. Soil that is too acidic will require the addition of lime prior to planting lavender. Lavender plants enjoy being grown in a soil pH of 6.4 to 8.3.
Watering Requirements
Lavender is exceptionally drought tolerant. It does not enjoy wet roots. Water lavender only when the plant completely dries out. Spacing plants to provide adequate air circulation is important because overcrowding allows the plants to stay damp with dew, humidity or rain, which can cause fungal diseases to infect that lavender. Space lavender plants at least 9 inches apart. Larger clumping varieties will require greater planting distances.
Potted Lavender Care
Lavender grown in containers will require transplanting yearly because the plant quickly depletes the soil conditions in the pot, according to Colorado State University. Prune container-grown lavender each spring to give the plant a bushy appearance and help prevent legginess. Garden-grown lavender also benefits from a light springtime pruning.
Mulch
Mulch lavender using either sand or pebbles. Avoid leaf debris, bark chips or peat moss, which keeps the soil moist, and can easily cause the lavender to suffer rot or fungal problems.
original link above ~ How to Care for Lavender Indoors, English Lavender Care as well
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Growing Lavender in Containers
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How To: Grow Lavender Plants
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How to Extend Lavender Blooming in Gardens
Two of the longest blooming kinds of lavender are Lavandula angustifolia ‘Irene Doyle’ and the hybrid L.‘Goodwin Creek Grey.’
The best way to have lavender blooming all summer is to plant several different kinds that bloom sequentially. First to bloom in late spring is the rabbit-eared Spanish lavender (Lavandula stoechas); most of the English lavenders start blooming in June; and then the French hybrids such as ‘Provence’ and ‘Grosso’ flower a little later in the season. ‘Grosso’ is probably the most intensely scented of all the lavenders, although opinions differ widely, as they usually do in matters of fragrance.
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Grape Hyacinth Planting Guide
Garden Pearls
Like clusters of tiny white and blue pearls, grape hyacinths are ideally suited for decorating the edges of gardens, containers and paths. Think of them as affordable jewelry for your landscaping. We’ve heard these little flowers compared with the delicate work found in Faberge eggs and seen up close, the resemblance is understandable. For those inclined to snip a few small flowers for a bedside bud vase, you’ll want to make sure these petite treasures are available. Many even offer a light, grapey scent to confirm that winter has past and spring really has arrived. And blues – well, these are some of the best true blues in the gardening world. Combine their color, cost and constitution and you’ll agree that these belong in every garden.
Outdoor Beds
- Find a location where the soil drains well. If there are still water puddles 5-6 hours after a hard rain, scout out another site. Or amend the soil with the addition of organic material to raise the level 2-3″ to improve the drainage. Peat moss, compost, ground bark or decomposed manure all work well and are widely available. While grape hyacinths aren’t fussy about soil, they will not survive in soggy soil or standing water.
- Site your grape hyacinths where they will get good light – full or three quarter day sun will produce the best blooms.
- Dig holes and plant the bulbs 3-4” deep and 3” apart. The bulbs are round, with small points on the sides that should be placed facing up.
- After planting, water well to settle the soil around the bulbs. Roots and foliage form in the fall. Flowers form in the spring.
- When in bloom, feel free to cut grape hyacinth flowers for tiny, perfect bouquets. This will not hurt your plants.
- After blooming has finished for the season leave the foliage in place; don’t cut it off. The leaves will gather sunlight, create food through photosynthesis and strengthen the bulb for the future. Water as needed during active growth periods; about 1″ of moisture per week is a good estimate.
- Late in the spring the leaves will yellow and die back as the plant slips into dormancy. The foliage may be removed at this point. Your bulbs will rest for a few months before beginning the next growing cycle.
- Grape hyacinths will self seed and spread over time. Most gardeners love this tendency to naturalize. Eventually crowding may occur and flowering activity may decline. If this happens, dig up the bulbs and separate them. Distribute them around your garden or share your bounty with friends. Replant promptly. These plants typically perform beautifully for many years.
Pots, Barrels, Tubs & Urns
- Use tall or shallow containers; grape hyacinths work well when mixed with other petite flowers, like pansies or miniature daffodils, or when tucked around the ankles of taller plants.
- Fill your containers with good quality, well-drained soil. Almost any commercially available potting medium will work fine. Make sure there are adequate drainage holes; grape hyacinths must never sit in waterlogged soil or they will rot.
- Site your grape hyacinths where they will get good light – full or three quarter day sun will produce the best blooms.
- Dig holes and plant the bulbs 3-4” deep and 3” apart. The bulbs are round, with small points on the sides that should be placed facing up.
- After planting, water well to settle the soil around the bulbs. Roots and foliage form in the fall. Flowers form in the spring.
- When in bloom, feel free to cut grape hyacinth flowers for tiny, perfect bouquets. This will not hurt your plants.
- After blooming has finished for the season leave the foliage in place; don’t cut it off. The leaves will gather sunlight, create food through photosynthesis and strengthen the bulb for the future. Water as needed during active growth periods; about 1″ of moisture per week is a good estimate
- Late in the spring the leaves will yellow and die back as the plant slips into dormancy. The foliage may be removed at this point. Your bulbs will rest for a few months before beginning the next growing cycle.
Indoor Forcing
- Grape hyacinths can be forced into bloom indoors in winter to add a splash of color and light fragrance to your home. They are easy to force and a good choice for beginners. You will need a cool place to chill the bulbs. An unused refrigerator or a basement where the temperature is 40-50 degrees Fahrenheit will work well. (Do not attempt to force bulbs by placing pots in the refrigerator where you keep fruits and vegetables. Produce gives off ethylene gas as it ripens and this retards bulb growth.)
- Plant the bulbs 3-4″ deep and 1-2″ apart and place the containers in a cool site (see step 1 above) for 10-12 weeks. Check occasionally to confirm that the soil hasn’t dried out entirely – lightly moist is best. During this time the bulbs will grow a significant network of roots that will eventually peek out the drainage hole in the pot’s bottom. This is a sign that your bulbs are ready to begin the flowering process.
- Move your pots to a light area where the temperature is warmer. Grape hyacinth blossoms (and those of all other forced bulbs) will last longer if moved to a room that is a bit cool. Hot, dry air pushes the bulbs to flower quickly, but the show also passes fast. Plant several pots and bring them into the warmth in stages, a few days apart, to extend the flower display for a number of weeks.
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Muscari
If you’re looking for hardy, no-care, “Plant and Forget” spring flowering bulbs, look no further – load up on Muscari. These bulbs are so winter hardy and easy to grow that no garden should be without them.
There are about 30 different species of Muscari, but only 4 or 5 are widely available. Best known are the Muscari armeniacum or, as they are more commonly known, Grape Hyacinths. They are so named because their clusters of small, bell-shaped, cobalt-blue flowers look like clusters of upside-down grapes.
There is a famous planting of them at the Keukenhof Gardens in Holland which is known as the Blue River. 
This is a dense planting of Muscari armeniacum that winds through the Gardens, past trees, shrubs, and other spring flowers. Year after year, this is one of the most photographed scenes in this park. Try planting a large drift of Muscari armeniacum in your garden for a similar effect.
An additional benefit is that all Muscari have a lovely fragrance. The more you plant, the more fragrance you get.
Other, cultivated varieties of Muscari armeniacum come in different shades of blue, and one variety comes in white. Different species of Muscari provide additional variety in terms of colour and form: Muscari azureum has a somewhat more open and less “grapey” look, Muscari latifolium is two-toned: light and dark blue, and Muscari plumosum is feathery and mauve in colour.
In terms of their care:
- all species’ bulbs should be planted at least 3″ (8 cm) deep, in a location where the water can’t settle in winter
- plant bulbs in zones 3 – 9, except for M. latifolium which prefers zones 2 to 5
All species will naturalize extremely easily (i.e. come back year after year and gradually multiply); that is, unless you plant them in completely sunless or swamp like conditions!
Muscari are all-round flowers: they are excellent as cut flowers, when planted in rock gardens, beds, borders, under shrubs, and trees, and can be used for indoor forcing. The following chart shows some of the species and varieties available from nurseries, and from mail order and on-line catalogs. To indicate that they are fragranced, I have put an asterisk (*) after the name of each variety.
Chart can be found here, highly recommend viewing, there are some really pretty varieties 🙂
like this one ~ M. plumosum
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Auntie Dogma's Garden Spot 
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