Snapdragons ~ Antirrhinum Plant Care Guide
Antirrhinum is a genus of plants commonly known as snapdragons or dragon flowers, from the flowers’ fancied resemblance to the face of a dragon that opens and closes its mouth when laterally squeezed. They are native to rocky areas of Europe, the United States, and North Africa.[1]
Species and more info here @ original source
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See Also …
Snapdragons @ Garden Guides
Snap Dragon Planting Instructions
Raspberry ~ Rubus Plant Care Guide ~ Varieties
Source
The raspberry is the edible fruit of a multitude of plant species in the genus Rubus of the rose family, most of which are in the subgenus Idaeobatus; the name also applies to these plants themselves. Raspberries are perennial with woody stems.
Species
Examples of raspberry species in Rubus subgenus Idaeobatus include:
- Rubus crataegifolius (Korean raspberry)
- Rubus gunnianus (Tasmanian alpine raspberry)
- Rubus idaeus (European red raspberry)
- Rubus leucodermis (Whitebark or Western raspberry, Blue raspberry, Black raspberry)
- Rubus occidentalis (Black raspberry)
- Rubus parvifolius (Australian native raspberry)
- Rubus phoenicolasius (Wine raspberry or Wineberry)
- Rubus rosifolius (West Indian raspberry)
- Rubus strigosus (American red raspberry) (syn. R. idaeus var. strigosus)
- Rubus ellipticus (Yellow Himalayan Raspberry)
Several species of Rubus, also called raspberries, are classified in other subgenera, including:
- Rubus arcticus (Arctic raspberry, subgenus Cyclactis)
- Rubus deliciosus (Boulder raspberry, subgenus Anoplobatus)
- Rubus nivalis (Snow raspberry, subgenus Chamaebatus)
- Rubus odoratus (Flowering raspberry, subgenus Anoplobatus)
- Rubus sieboldii (Molucca raspberry, subgenus Malachobatus)
Selected important cultivars
Numerous raspberry cultivars have been selected.
Two types of raspberry are available for commercial and domestic cultivation; the summer-bearing type produces an abundance of fruit on second-year canes (floricanes) within a relatively short period in midsummer, and double or “everbearing” plants, which also bear some fruit on first-year canes (primocanes) in the late summer and fall, as well as the summer crop on second-year canes. Those marked (AGM) have gained the Royal Horticultural Society‘s Award of Garden Merit.
- Red, early summer fruiting
- Boyne
- Fertödi Venus
- Rubin Bulgarski
- Cascade Dawn
- Glen Clova
- Glen Moy (AGM)[12]
- Killarney
- Malahat
- Malling Exploit
- Malling Jewel (AGM)[13]
- Titan
- Willamette
- Red, midsummer
- Cuthbert
- Glen Ample (AGM)[14]
- Glen Prosen (AGM)[15]
- Lloyd George
- Meeker
- Newburgh
- Ripley
- Skeena
- Cowichan
- Chemainus
- Saanich
- Red, late summer
- Cascade Delight
- Coho
- Fertödi Rubina
- Leo (AGM)[16]
- Malling Admiral (AGM)[17]
- Octavia
- Schoenemann
- Tulameen
- Red, primocane, fall, autumn fruiting
- Amity
- Augusta
- Autumn Bliss (AGM)[18]
- Joan J. (Thornless)
- Caroline
- Fertödi Kétszertermö
- Heritage
- Josephine
- Ripley
- Summit
- Zeva Herbsternte
- Gold/Yellow, primocane, fall, autumn fruiting
- Anne
- Fallgold
- Fertödi Aranyfürt
- Goldenwest
- Golden Queen
- Honey Queen
- Kiwi Gold
- Purple
- Brandywine
- Royalty
- Black
- Black Hawk
- Bristol
- Cumberland
- Glencoe
- Jewel
- Munger
- Ohio Everbearer
- Scepter
Diseases and pests
Raspberries are sometimes eaten by the larvae of some Lepidoptera species (butterflies and moths). Botrytis cinerea, or gray mould, is a common fungal infection of raspberries and other soft fruit. It is seen as a gray mould growing on the raspberries, and particularly affects fruit which are bruised, as it provides an easy entrance point for the spores.
Raspberry plants should not be planted where potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, or bulbs have previously been grown, without prior fumigation of the soil. These crops are hosts for the disease Verticillium wilt, a fungus that can stay in the soil for many years and can infest the raspberry crop.[19]
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Raspberries @ Old Farmer’s
Botanical name: Rubus
Plant type: Fruit
USDA Hardiness Zones: 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7
Sun exposure: Full Sun
Soil type: Any
Soil pH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Raspberries are naturally inclined to grow in cooler climates, although the development of adaptable varieties has made it possible for gardeners to grow raspberries in many zones. They are relatively easy to grow, and with proper care, can bear fruit indefinitely. Don’t limit yourself to the common red raspberry; try growing purple as well!
There are two types of raspberries, both with their own specific requirements for growing. Summer-bearers bear one crop per season, in summertime. Ever-bearers bear two crops, one in summer and one in fall.
Planting
- Plant in the early spring (or late winter for warm zones)
- Plant far from wild growing berries, otherwise risk the spread of pests and diseases to your garden.
- Prepare soil with compost or aged manure a couple weeks before planting.
- Raspberries love moisture, so try soaking the roots for an hour or two before planting.
- Dig a hole that is roomy enough for the roots to spread.
- Space plants about 3 feet apart, in rows 8 feet apart.
- After planting, cut back canes, leaving 8 to 10 inches.
- Depending on the variety you plant, you may need to fashion a support. A trellis or a fence are good options. If you chose to use one of these, establish them at or before time of planting so the plants are not disturbed when maturing.
Care
- Mulching is important throughout the season to conserve moisture and suffocate weeds. Keep a thick layer of mulch surrounding plants at all times.
- Water one inch per week.
- The roots send up an abundant amount of shoots, called canes. Keep order by pruning away the majority of them so that the survivors can produce lots of berries.
Pruning
Summer-Bearers produce berries on two year old canes while one year old canes grow right beside them. You shouldn’t have trouble telling which is which: the older canes have brown stems, and the young ones are still green. Prune only the older ones, the ones that have finished their fruitful year.
- Prune in the fall. Leave about 6 of the thickest, strongest green canes.
- Keep plant contained to a 19-inch wide space. Left alone without care all summer, neat rows will become thickets.
- Cut off all canes that grow sideways.
Ever-Bearers require less care:
- Mow them to the ground in the fall, after you finish picking. (For a small patch, pruning shears will do.)
- Clean up all debris—diseases and pests overwinter.
- Pruning is not required during the growing season unless you want to keep a uniform order.
Pests
Raspberries are one of the few fruits that are hardly bothered by pests and diseases. (Black raspberries are most susceptible to this type of damage than red or purple.)
- Powdery Mildew
- Cane Borers
Harvest/Storage
- All varieties will begin to produce fruit in their second season. In some cases, ever-bearers may bear small berries in their first autumn.
- In early summer, berries will ripen over a time of about 2 weeks. You will need to pick berries every couple of days.
- Try to harvest berries on a sunny day when they are dry.
- Don’t tug too hard on your raspberries when picking. A ripe raspberry will leave the vine willingly.
- Raspberries can be kept refrigerated for about 5 days.
- If the fruit is to be made into preserves, it should be done straight off the plant.
- Raspberries can be frozen. Make a single layer of berries on a cookie sheet. When frozen, place into airtight bags.
Recommended Varieties
- ‘Canby’ recommended for New England, Upper Great Lakes and Northwest.
- ‘Heritage’ recommended for the Mid-Atlantic and Ohio Valley.
- ‘Fallgold’ yellow variety recommended for the Upper Midwest and Canada.
- ‘Plainsman’ recommended for the Rockies and High Plains.
Recipes
- Becky’s Raspberry Muffins
- Darby Field Inn’s Raspberry Thumbprint Bars
- Cold Chocolate Souffle with Raspberry Sauce
Wit & Wisdom
Raspberries are a good source of dietary fiber and Vitamin C.
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See Also …
Foraging for Edible Wild Plants: A Field Guide to Wild Berries
Stokes Aster–Stokesia laevis Plant Care Guide
Stokesia laevis is a species of flowering plant native to southeastern North America, the only species in the genus Stokesia. It is in the daisy family. The flowers appear in the summer and are purple (sometimes blue, pale purple, or even white).[2] The plant is cultivated and several cultivars are available.[3] It is sometimes known as Cornflower aster or Stokes’ aster.
Like a few other plants (such as some species of Vernonia), it contains vernolic acid, a vegetable oil with commercial applications.[4]
It is named after Jonathan Stokes (1755–1831), English botanist and member of the Lunar Society of Birmingham.
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Stokes Asters Flowers – Tips For Stokes Aster Care
Image by TANAKA Juuyoh
By Becca Badgett
Sustainable and xeric gardens benefit from the addition of the stokes aster. Care of this charming plant is minimal once the stokes aster plant is established in the garden. You can grow stokes asters for a burst of spring and summer color against a backdrop of evergreen shrubs and native foliage plants for a pleasing display.
Stokes Asters Flowers
Stokes aster flowers come in a range of pale and perky shades. The muted yellow cultivar ‘Mary Gregory’ may be combined with the shorter ‘Purple Parasol’ for compatible, long lasting color and frilly texture in the summer flower bed.
Stokes asters, Stokesia laevis, have flowers as big as 4 inches, with frilly petals and intricate centers. Stokes asters flowers bloom from late spring through summer in shades of silvery white, electric blue and rosy pink. The species is native to the southern U.S, and depending on location and stokes aster care may last for the entire summer.
How To Grow Stokes Asters
Grow stokes aster plant in a sunny location in more northern areas, while stokes asters flowers offer longer bloom with protection from glaring afternoon sun in hotter places. Stokes aster care includes keeping new plantings well watered after planting. Once established growing stokes asters are drought tolerant. Grow stokes asters in slightly acidic, well-draining soil for the best performance from the stokes aster plant.
The stokes aster plant grows from 10 to 24 inches tall and may be planted with other flowering native plants such as blanket flower for a summer show. Divide clumps of the stokes aster plant every 3 to 4 years for more perennial flowers. Stokes aster care should include the deadheading of spent blooms at the base of the stem. Some flower heads may be left on the plant to dry for seeds to grow stokes asters for next year.
Now that you’ve learned the beauty of this plant and of how easy stokes aster care can be, try planting this great native in your flower garden. It will multiply so that you have many more to place in your display in just a few years.
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See Also ….
Stokesia laevis (Hill) Greene ~ Stokes’ aster
Stokesia laevis @ Native Plant Database
Stokesia laevis ‘Peachie’s Pick’ @ Fine Gardening
Bellflower ~ Campanula Plant Care Guide ~ Varieties
Campanula /kæmˈpæn.juːlə/[2] is one of several genera in the family Campanulaceae with the common name bellflower. It takes its name from their bell-shaped flowers—campanula is Latin for “little bell”.
The genus includes over 500 species and several subspecies, distributed across the temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere, with the highest diversity in the Mediterranean region east to the Caucasus.
The species include annual, biennial and perennial plants, and vary in habit from dwarf arctic and alpine species under 5 cm high, to large grassland and woodland species growing to 2 metres (6 ft 7 in) tall.
Well-known species include the northern temperate Campanula rotundifolia, commonly known as harebell in England and bluebell in Scotland (though it is not closely related to the true bluebells, and the southern European Campanula medium, commonly known as Canterbury bells (a popular garden plant in the United Kingdom). As well as several species occurring naturally in the wild in northern Europe, there are many cultivated garden species.
The following cultivars have gained the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit:-
- ‘Birch Hybrid’[3]
- ‘Burghaltii’ (Garden Girls series)[4]
- ‘Joe Elliott’[5]
- ‘Kent Belle’ (Garden Girls series)[6]
The species Campanula rapunculus, commonly known as rampion bellflower, rampion, or rover bellflower, is a biennial vegetable which was once widely grown in Europe for its spinach-like leaves and radish-like roots. The Brothers Grimm’s tale Rapunzel took its name from this plant.
In the UK the National Collection of campanulas is held at Burton Agnes Hall in East Yorkshire and the National Collection of Alpine Campanulas at Langham Hall in Suffolk.
There are 473, including:
Species
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Formerly placed here
- Adenophora gmelinii (Spreng.) Fisch. (as C. coronopifolia Schult. or C. gmelinii Spreng.)
- Adenophora khasiana (Hook.f. & Thomson) Collett & Hemsl. (as C. khasiana Hook.f. & Thomson)
- Adenophora liliifolia (L.) Besser (as C. liliifolia L.)
- Adenophora triphylla (Thunb.) A.DC. (as C. tetraphylla Thunb. or C. triphylla Thunb.)
- Azorina vidalii (H.C.Watson) Feer (as C. vidalii H.C.Watson)
- Borago pygmaea (DC.) Chater & Greuter (as C. pygmaea DC.)
- Legousia pentagonia (L.) Druce (as C. pentagonia L.)
- Platycodon grandiflorus (Jacq.) A.DC. (as C. glauca Thunb. or C. grandiflora Jacq.)
- Specularia speculum A.DC. (as C. speculum-veneris L.)
- Triodanis perfoliata (L.) Nieuwl. (as C. perfoliata L.)
- Wahlenbergia linarioides (Lam.) A.DC. (as C. linarioides Lam.)
- Wahlenbergia marginata (Thunb.) A.DC. C. gracilis G.Forst. or C. marginata Thunb.)
- Wahlenbergia undulata (L.f.) A.DC. (as C. undulata L.f.)[8]
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How to Care for a Campanula Plant
Overview
Campanula also is known as bellflower. There are approximately 300 varieties of campanula, including annuals, biennials and perennials. Their trumpet-shaped flowers are white, rose, blue or purple. The different varieties grow from 3 inches high to about 4 feet high. The shorter varieties make good ground cover for areas that do not receive foot traffic.
Step 1
Grow campanula in full sun to partial shade. The shorter the variety, the less sun required. Campanula likes the dappled shade of deciduous trees and makes an excellent ground cover beneath them. It also benefits from the shade tree’s roots, which loosen the soil as they grow deep underground in search of moisture. The roots of campanula will do the same thing.
Step 2
Grow campanula in unimproved soil. It grows well in any type of soil, except heavy clay or waterlogged, marshy soil.
Step 3
Water campanula only in times of extreme drought. Its deep-growing roots will seek out and find water deep underground and will thrive with only natural rainfall.
Step 4
Cultivate to remove weeds as campanula does not favorably compete with them, especially lawn grasses. Put down a mulch of hay or straw about 2 inches thick to suppress the growth of weeds and reduce competition for water and nutrients.
Things You’ll Need
Gooseberry ~ Ribes uva-crispa Plant Care Guide
The gooseberry (/ˈɡuːsbɛri/ or /ˈɡuːzbɛri/ (American) or /ˈɡʊzbəri/ (British);,[1] with scientific names Ribes uva-crispa (and syn. Ribes grossularia), is a species of Ribes (which also includes the currants). It is native to Europe, northwestern Africa, west, south and southeast Asia. Gooseberry bushes produce an edible fruit and are grown on both a commercial and domestic basis.
Although usually placed as a subgenus within Ribes, a few taxonomists treat Grossularia as a separate genus, although hybrids between gooseberry and blackcurrant (e.g., the jostaberry) are possible. The subgenus Grossularia differs somewhat from currants, chiefly in their spiny stems, and in that their flowers grow one to three together on short stems, not in racemes. It is one of several similar species in the subgenus Grossularia; for the other related species (e.g., North American Gooseberry Ribes hirtellum), see the genus page Ribes.
See also
- Barbados gooseberry
- Cape gooseberry
- Chinese gooseberry
- Fuchsia flowered gooseberry
- Indian gooseberry
Source Wikipedia
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Currants and Gooseberries @ National Gardening Assoc.
Ribe spp.
Currants and Gooseberries are attractive shrubs known for their tasty, colorful fruit that can be eaten fresh off the plant or harvested for making jams, jellies and pies.
About This Plant
Currants and Gooseberries are multi-stemmed, hardy, fast growing deciduous shrubs approximately 5-6 feet high and wide, with maple-shaped leaves, clusters of flowers in the early spring and colorful fruit into the fall season (Hardiness Zones 3-8). Currants are most widely used for jelly, but also used in making sauces and pies. Birds are highly attracted to these colorful, fruit-bearing plants.
Special Features
Perfection – a red currant with a bushy upright form, small to average red colored fruit.
Red Lake – a vigorous red currant resistant to mildew, with small dark red berries.
White Imperial (Ribes rubrum) – a hardy, dense, spreading white currant, producing small berries.
Boskoop Giant – a vigorous, low-branching black currant with flavorful berries; requires a pollinator.
Buffalo Currant (Ribes aureum) – very hardy with a wide, weeping form, tolerant of a range of soil conditions, showy yellow and fragrant blooms, with ripe pea-sized, glossy, brown-purple berries.
Jostaberry (Ribes hirtellum) – a hybrid of black currant and American gooseberry, the mildew-resistant Jostaberry has a tall upright form with glossy foliage, and small, dark purplish fruit.
Site Selection
Currants grow well in cool regions with humid summers and a winter chilling period. In warmer areas, they prefer morning sunlight followed by part-shade, conditions such as those on the north or east side of a building. They can withstand dense shade conditions, but they won’t bear as much fruit. Currants can also withstand ocean breezes but are susceptible to leaf burn from the salt air.
Planting Instructions
Plants are sold both bare-root and in pots. Set out bare-root plants in early spring, potted plants anytime. Space them about 6 feet apart in well-drained, slightly acid soil.
Care
In late winter, fertilize with compost or aged manure, then add an organic mulch, such as straw, in early summer to help keep roots cool and soil moist. Once the fruit colors, let it hang for 3 weeks for fresh eating. Yields vary depending on the selected variety, location and growing conditions.
Annual pruning in the late winter will help increase the berry yield and aesthetic form of your shrub. Prune out broken or drooping branches. Intense sunlight may burn the leaf growth and a reduction in leaf size and quantity may indicate the plant is under water stress. Watch out for changing cooler temperatures that may cause your currants to contract powdery mildew, a white fungus that coats leaves and can develop on the fruits too. Cut off and remove infected portions of the plant. Consider purchasing certified disease-free varieties and plant them further apart to encourage plenty of air movement between bushes to encourage healthy growth.
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See Also …
Growing Currants and Gooseberries in the Home Garden @ Iowa Uni
Growing Gooseberries, Planting Gooseberry Bushes, Gooseberry Fool Recipe@ Veggie Gardening Online
Crowfoot Buttercup ~ Buttercups ~ Ranunculus Plant Care Guide
Crowfoot Buttercup
By LoveToKnow
Crowfoot Buttercup (Ranunculus) – Mountain, meadow, and marsh herbs, many of them weeds, while others are among the choicest of alpine flowers and perennials for borders. They are for the most part of the simplest culture; only R. asiaticus and its many varieties require special treatment.
Related Flowers
The below is but a selection from a very large family in nature, many of which are little known in gardens, and many of no garden interest.
Ranunculus Aconitifolius
Ranunculus Aconitifolius – A mountain pasture herb. The double-flowered variety which is known as Fair Maids of France is a pretty garden plant about 18 inches high, covered for several weeks in early summer with small rosette-like white blossoms. It is a charming plant in deep moist soils, especially the large-flowered forms.
Bachelors’ Buttons
Bachelors Buttons (Ranunculus Acris) – The pretty double form of this plant is also a useful kind, its rich yellow blossoms borne in button-like rosettes: a border plant, and good in moist soil, flowering twice in the year.
Alpine Buttercup
Alpine Buttercup (Ranunculus Alpestris) – A native of the alpine regions of C. Europe, and found chiefly growing in calcareous soil: a handsome kind, forming small tufts of shining, dark-green, prettily cut leaves; flowers large pure white, with numerous yellow stamens in the centre, and borne singly on erect stems from 2 to 6 inches high in June and July. A good rock garden plant in light, porous, moist soil. There is a pretty dwarf form, hardly rising above the soil. R. pyrenaeus comes near this in effect, with large white flowers borne several together on stems of 6 inches, but the leaf is a different shape.
White Buttercup
White Buttercup (Ranunculus Amplexicaulis) – Lovely garden plant, about 1 foot high, with slender stems, glaucous-grey leaves, and blossoms 1 inch across, pure white with yellow centres, blooming in April and May: a pretty border and rock garden plant, doing best in a deep moist loam. Pyrenees and Alps of Provence.
Turban Buttercup
See Turban Buttercup
Ranunculus Bulbosus Fl
Ranunculus Bulbosus Fl – L. is a showy plant, about 1 foot in height, with, in early summer, numerous double yellow blossoms, growing well in any soil. There is also a pretty pale yellow form.
Ranunculus Crenatus
Ranunculus Crenatus – A native of alpine and siliceous mountains in Styria, the leaves entire and roundish; the flowers are large, white, with almost entire petals, two or three together at the extremity of stems 3 or 4 inches high in April and May. Plant in the rock garden in deep sandy soil in England, fully exposed to the sun.
Glacier Buttercup
Glacier Buttercup (Ranunculus Glacialis) – This is the plant of the icy regions, being found near to the melting snow on the loftiest mountains. The thick, fleshy leaves of a dark green and deeply incised, the stem of a brown-red tint, 3 or 4 inches long, prostrate on the ground, and bearing from one to four flowers, the petals of which are at first of a light pink color, passing into a bright coppery-red. Everthing about this plant has a glacial aspect. It thrives on cool and moist but fully exposed ledges of the rock garden, in deep gritty soil with white stones or sand on the surface to keep it cool. Alps and Pyrenees.
Ranunculus Gramineus
Ranunculus Gramineus – A pretty little plant from the Pyrenees, with slender, erect stems of about a foot high and narrow grass-like leaves of a blue-grey color. Its golden flowers are produced in great profusion during early summer. A useful plant for the border or moist corner of the rock garden, and also quite happy if treated as a bog-plant.
Great Spearwort
Great Spearwort (Ranunculus Lingua) – A native kind and a noble waterside plant, its leaves rising boldly out of the water to a height of 2 or 3 feet, with large yellow and attractive flowers. Thrives in muddy watersides, and the numerous and handsome flowers are good for cutting for the house.
Rockwood Lily
Rockwood Lily (Ranunculus Lyalli) – A lovely New Zealand plant; in moist places in the Southern Alps the plant has large rounded leaves and very large handsome waxy white flowers, not unlike those of Anemone japonica, with delicate yellow stamens in the centre. In some places in Britain this plant is not hardy, but in others it stands the winter well, but is difficult to cultivate in our climate.
Montpelier Buttercup
Montpelier Buttercup (Ranunculus Monspeliacus) – A vigorous plant, growing about 18 inches high, with three-lobed wooly leaves and large flowers like the Common Buttercup.
Parnassia-leaved Buttercup
Parnassia-leaved Buttercup (Ranunculus Parnassifolius) – A singular-looking plant with thick, entire leaves, woolly on the edges, flowers large, of a pure white color, borne two or three together on a prostrate stem in the month of May. In the Pyrenees and on the French Alps it is rare to find a flower of this handsome species which possesses the full number of petals.
Rue-leaved Buttercup
Rue-leaved Buttercup (Ranunculus Rutaefolius) – Rue-like leaves and white flowers with dark-yellow centres. Coming from the highest parts of the Alps, it requires the same treatment as the higher alpine plants, in a fully-exposed spot in moist soil with plenty of grit in it.
Large Double Buttercup
Large Double Buttercup (Ranunculus Speciosus) – A showy plant, with compact rosette-like flowers of bright yellow in May, succeeding in any light soil. In a full collection, R. charophyllus, illyricus, and famiariafolius may be included.
Prolific and Terrific: Ranunculus
by Michael MacCaskey
Remarkable for their many petals, ranunculus flowers make long lasting cut flowers.
Brilliantly colored flowers are ranunculus’ chief attraction, and they are indeed special. They most often come in multiple layers of delicate, crepe paper–thin petals, looking like an origami masterwork. Ranunculus (R. asiaticus) excel in southern and western gardens, and make terrific container plants everywhere. They also make long-lasting cut flowers. Bulbs are widely available in Fall at retail nurseries in mild-winter climates; in Fall and early spring from mail-order catalogs.
Ranunculus leaves, grass green and vaguely celery-like, grow in a mound 6 to 12 inches across. Flowers on 12- to 18-inch stems emerge in March from fall-planted bulbs, June and July from spring-planted bulbs; they last up to six weeks. On the most common type, the Tecolote strain, flowers are mostly fully double, 3 to 6 inches wide, and available in bicolored picotee, gold, pastel mix, pink, red, rose, salmon, sunset orange, white, and yellow. The less common Bloomingdale strain is shorter, to 10 inches, with pale orange, pink, red, yellow, and white double flowers.
Where and How Ranunculus Grow Best
Broadly speaking, ranunculus are frost-hardy cool-season perennials. They perform best where winters are relatively mild and springs are long and cool. The roots tolerate soil temperatures to 10°F, while growing plants can handle temperatures below 20°F for several hours.
Ranunculus are most popular in the mild-winter regions of the South and West, in states such as California, Nevada, Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, and Louisiana (USDA Hardiness Zones 8 through 11), where they grow best. Planted there in October or November, they flower in March.
The clawlike bulbs, more correctly tubers, come in four grades or sizes. The largest, called jumbos, are the ones you should rely upon; they are at least 7 to 8 centimeters (2-3/4 to 3-1/8 inches) in circumference, or about 7/8 inch in diameter. Number one tubers are slightly smaller, 6 to 7 centimeters (2-1/4 to 2-3/4 inches); number twos are 5 to 6 centimeters (2 to 2-1/4 inches); and number threes, which are rare at retail, are 3 to 4 centimeters (1-1/8 to 2-1/4 inches).
Bulb size predicts the number of flowers. Each jumbo bulb will produce some 35 cuttable flowers, compared to a fifth as many from a number three bulb. Number ones will make about 20 flowers, number twos a dozen or more. Stick to jumbos for containers and most smaller plantings. Smaller number twos or even threes serve well for mass plantings.
At retail nurseries this fall, you can expect to pay about 50 cents for each jumbo bulb, 25 cents for number twos. Increasingly, nurseries also offer ranunculus in fall or spring as bedding plants in 4-inch pots. While the cost per bulb in pots is greater, this is a good option if you need only a few plants for a container.
Gardeners in zone 7 and north (Richmond and Reno to Minneapolis) can also grow ranunculus, but on a different schedule. In these regions, plant in early spring a week or two before the typical last frost.
Or, plant them in pots indoors in February for transplanting later. Place pots in a south- or west-facing window or under grow lights. Temperatures around 55°F are ideal. In early spring, gradually acclimate plants to outdoors by putting them out for more time each day (bring them in at night). Plant outdoors by mid-April in zones 6 and 7 (mid-May in zones 4 and 5). Spring-planted ranunculus will bloom in June or July.
Dry and hard when you buy them, tubers soften and plump up after absorbing moisture. You might be advised elsewhere to soak tubers before planting. It’s not necessary, and if you happen to leave them in water too long, they’ll turn to mush.
Choose a location in full sun and be sure the soil is well drained. The one environment that ranunculus do not tolerate is warm and wet. The cool soil of fall and early spring offers some protection from rotting, but soil that is never soggy gives extra insurance. Plant the tuber’s claw pointed end down and 1 to 2 inches deep, less in clay soil. Space jumbos 8 to 12 inches apart (at least one tuber per square foot), number three tubers about 4 inches apart (two or three per square foot).
Ranunculus adapt easily to container life, but they do produce a large root system. A 10-inch pot can fit one or two jumbos or three number twos.
Whether tubers are in the garden or in pots, water thoroughly after planting, and apply a mulch of your choice: bark, coco hulls, and straw all work well. As long as soil retains some moisture, don’t water again until you see sprouts, usually within 15 to 20 days.
Companion plants. Because ranunculus are cool-season bloomers, their natural companions include other cool-season flowers such as snapdragon (Antirrhinum), calendula, larkspur (Consolida ambigua), Chinese forget-me-not (Cynoglossum amabile), African daisy (Arctotis), candytuft (Iberis), sweet pea (Lathyrus odoratus), toadflax (Linaria), forget-me-not (Myosotis), Iceland poppy (Papaver nudicaule), primrose (Primula), and pansy (Viola). The question is how to combine colors.
Here are two ranunculus color schemes that have proven popular. Interplant pink ranunculus with salmon Iceland poppy and red-purple pansies, and accent with a few yellow and pink English primroses. Another favorite scheme combines salmon ranunculus with blue Chinese forget-me-not.
Ranunculus from seed. If you can locate seed for sale or through a swap, they’re definitely worth the effort. Sow in a lightweight, peat-based seed-starting mix in late winter, maintain soil temperature at 50°F, and allow 20 to 30 days for germination. Sow thickly, because the number of seeds that actually grow is low. After germination, maintain seedlings indoors at about 55°F until outdoor planting time. Plants will flower by June.
As cut flowers. Beyond their intrinsic beauty, ranunculus flowers have another virtue: they last indoors about 7 days after cutting. And at about a penny-and-a-half per flower, they are very inexpensive. Cut when flowers first show color, in the early morning after they have had the night to recharge themselves with moisture. For an additional day or two of vase life, add any floral preservative to the water.
After the flowers fade. For some lucky gardeners with perfectly drained, cool soil, the tubers can stay in place and be treated like any perennial that comes back year after year. But this is rare. Most gardeners treat ranunculus as annuals, disposing of them after bloom. You could pull and compost plants, or leave them in place to fade away. In most gardens, the tubers will rot in moist summer soils. More ambitious gardeners can save the tubers for replanting next year. Let blooms fade and plants dry out. Lift tubers, cut off tops, and store in a dry, cool place for planting next year.
Michael MacCaskey is a former editorial director at National Gardening.
Photography by the International Flower Bulb Center
See Also ….
Buttercup, Bulbous
Ranunculus Planting Guide
Care for a Ranunculus
Catharanthus roseus ~ Madagascar Periwinkle ~ Vinca Rosea ~ Rosy Periwinkle ~ Plant Care Guide
Common names:
Madagascar Periwinkle, Rose Periwinkle, Periwinkle, Vinca, Old-Maid
Scientific name Catharantus roseus
Explanation of scientific name
Catharantus – Greek for clean or pure flower
roseus – Latin for rose-colored
Annual bedding plants seem to go in and out of fashion over the years. Gardeners always yearn for something “new” or “different” and become bored with some species even though they perform well in the garden. At one time petunias were the top selling annuals. Today that distinction is held by impatiens. While no one can tell what will be in vogue next, a contender might be the Madagascar Periwinkle.
By no means a new species, the Madagascar Periwinkle has been grown in this country since the 19th century. Many do not know it because of its many common names that are also applied to other species, causing confusion. Even its scientific name, Catharantus roseus, causes problems since the species used to be known as Vinca rosea.
While the name may be perplexing, few question its beauty in the landscape. Glossy, dark-green leaves on stems 3 – 18 inches tall (depending on cultivar) provide a perfect background for the single phlox-like flowers in shades of rose, pink, and white. Blooms are produced continuously from June until frosts in the fall. Madagascar Periwinkles thrive in full sun or partial shade. They tolerate dry soils, but do poorly on wet sites. The evenly moist soil of a typical annual garden suits them best. Their tropical ancestry dictates a need for warmth, and experienced gardeners do not set them out too early in the spring. Compared to other annuals, they are slow growing from seed and must be sown in February in order to have reasonably sized plants in May. They can also be rooted from cuttings. Essentially free of insects and diseases, even deer avoid them in favor of other annuals.
The renewed interest in Madagascar Periwinkle is the result of successes in plant breeding. Hybridizers have been working with Madagascar Periwinkle for decades, with the cultivar ‘Polka Dot’, a dwarf trailing type, winning a prestigious All-American Selection Award in 1969. Work at the University of Connecticut, crossing the Madagascar Periwinkle with its rare wild relatives produced an almost unheard of 3 All America Selection Award winners in 1991; ‘Pretty in Pink’, ‘Pretty in Rose’, and ‘Parasol’. They have flowers several times larger than any previous type. New cultivars are released regularly, increasing the popularity of the species.
The Madagascar Periwinkle’s value is not limited to ornamentation. Its more important but often overlooked role is in medicine – with an interesting history. While native to Madagascar and India, the species was transported throughout the tropics long before there was interest in the plant’s landscape potential. It escaped cultivation and naturalized around the equator. A diversity of cultures, from Madagascar to Jamaica to the Philippines, have a history of using it in folk medicines and especially for treating people with diabetes. It is also known to be poisonous to livestock if ingested in large quantities.
The plant’s therapeutic uses came to the attention of Canadian and American medical researchers during World War II when they learned that soldiers stationed in the Philippines used Madagascar Periwinkle leaves to substitute for unavailable insulin. During the 1950’s, while investigating the effects of Madagascar Periwinkle extracts, the researchers found them to have no appreciable effect on blood sugar levels, but they did reduce the white blood cell count in laboratory animals without significant side effects. More recently, 2 alkaloids in Madagascar Periwinkle leaves, vinblastine and vincristine, were identified as active anti-cancer agents that could be used in chemotherapy. Vinblastine is used for patients with Hodgkin’s disease and vincristine is used for children with leukemia. With the introduction of vincristine, the survival rate for children with leukemia jumped from 20 to 80 percent.
The lesson of the usefulness of this single, once obscure species should not be lost. Madagascar has an incredible number of unique plant and animal species that are becoming extinct at an astonishing rate, as the Malagasy people level natural vegetation to plant crops to feed an exploding population. While one can be sympathetic to their immediate food needs, there are probably many plants with potential medical, industrial, food, or ornamental uses that will disappear before we learn of their value. The tragedy of extinction is that each species is the product of millions of years of evolution that will never be duplicated.
*****************
Type: Herbaceous perennial
Family: Apocynaceae
Zone: 10 to 11
Native Range: Madagascar
Height: 0.5 to 1.5 feet
Spread: 0.5 to 1.5 feet
Bloom Time: June to To frost
Bloom Color: Pink, Red
Bloom Description: Rosy pink to red with mauve throats
Sun: Full sun to part shade
Water: Medium
Maintenance: Low
Flowers: Showy Flowers
Tolerates: Dry Soil, Drought, Rabbits
Uses: Suitable as Annual
Invasive: Where is this species invasive in the US?
Culture
Winter hardy to USDA Zones 10-11 where it grows as a woody based perennial. In the St. Louis area, it is best grown as an annual bedding plant in well-drained sandy loams in full sun to part shade. Needs regular moisture, but avoid overhead watering. Superior soil drainage is the key to growing this annual well. Start seeds indoors 12-16 weeks before last frost date. Set out seedlings or purchased starter plants in spring after last frost date. Thrives in hot and humid summer weather. Cuttings may be taken from plants in late summer for overwintering so as to provide a stock the following spring. Container plants may be overwintered indoors. May self-seed in optimum growing conditions.
Noteworthy Characteristics
Periwinkle, Madagascar periwinkle or annual vinca is an erect to spreading tender perennial in the dogbane family typically mounding 6-18” (less frequently to 24”) tall and as wide. It produces attractive bushy foliage that is covered by an often profuse bloom of phlox-like flowers from summer to frost. Best flowering is in summer. Tubular flowers have five flattened petal-like lobes and appear singly in the upper leaf axils. Species flowers are rosy-pink to red with mauve throats. However, species plants are seldom seen in commerce today, having been largely replaced by larger flowered cultivars, many of which are dwarf to compact plants that sometimes have overlapping petals. Cultivars expand the available color range to include pale pink, rose, hot pink, red, lilac, and white, often with contrasting darker throats/eyes. Oblong to ovate glossy green leaves (to 2” long). Synonymous with and formerly know as Vinca rosea.
Problems
No serious insect or disease problems. Stem rot, leaf spot and aster yellows may occur. Watch for slugs and snails.
Garden Uses
Annual ground cover, bedding, edging or containers. Some varieties make excellent houseplants.
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See Also ….
Anti-cancer: Rosy periwinkle
Vinca, Madagascar Periwinkle
MADAGASCAR PERIWINKLE
Catharanthus roseus (Madagascar periwinkle)
Dianthus caryophyllus ~ Wild Carnations Plant Care Guide
Dianthus
There are numerous types of dianthus, so there’s one for almost any garden situation. Many types have flowers with a fragrant, spicy scent and notched petals. Common dianthus include Sweet William, pinks, and carnations.
About This Plant
Most dianthus have pink, red, or white flowers with notched petals. Sweet Williams are biennial or short-lived perennials covered with bicolor flowers in late spring. Pinks are low-growing dianthus suitable for rock gardens. Carnations are taller and good for bouquets but tend to be less hardy than other dianthus.
Special Features
Multiplies readily
Fragrant
Good for cut flowers
Deer resistant
Site Selection
Select a site with full sun and well-drained soil, preferably with neutral to alkaline soil pH. Dianthus won’t tolerate wet soils, especially in winter.
Planting Instructions
Plant in spring or fall, spacing plants 6 to 12 inches apart, depending on the type. Prepare the garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the plant’s container. Carefully remove the plant from its pot and place it in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Carefully fill in around the root ball and firm the soil gently. Water thoroughly.
Care
Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. Stake tall varieties to keep them upright. Remove spent blooms on tall varieties, or shear back mounding plants after bloom to encourage rebloom. After the first killing frost, cut stems back to an inch or two above soil line. Divide plants every 3 to 4 years as new growth begins in the spring, lifting plants and dividing them into clumps
*********************
See Also ….
Dianthus Plants: How To Grow Dianthus
Dianthus caryophyllus ~ (dii-an’ thuss care-ee-ah’ fill-us)
Carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus)
Dianthus caryophyllus ‘Grenadin Pink’
How to Grow and Care for the Dianthus Flower in Containers
How to Grow Sweet William Plants
Heuchera Plant Care Guide and Varieties (Coral bells)
Heuchera Plant Care
Overview
Heuchera, also known as coral bells, alum root or Saxifragaceae, is an herbaceous perennial plant commonly grown as ground cover available in a wide variety of colors, sizes and textures. The name coral bells reflects the appearance of the ornamental flowers, though the semi-evergreen foliage is an attractive feature in itself. Heuchera, native to North America, thrives in USDA hardiness zones 3 through 11 and often grows with little to no care in most temperate regions.
Site and Soil
Plant your heuchera in a location with moist, well-drained, fertile soil that receives partial shade throughout the day. The plant tolerates full sun or full shade, but partial shade yields the best results. A soil amendment of organic compost increases the drainage and fertility of the soil to adequate levels. Heuchera grows well and provides a nice accent in a location near other herbaceous perennials. Spacing separate plantings 10 to 16 inches apart provides plenty of room for growth.
Watering
Watering once every seven days will prevent the soil from drying out completely. Heuchera needs consistently moist soil to thrive, especially in hotter climates. To reduce the risk of foliar disease, heuchera requires watering during the early morning so any excess moisture can evaporate before evening. Drip irrigation effectively delivers moisture directly to the soil, further reducing the plant’s vulnerability to disease.
Mulching
Spreading a 2-inch layer of mulch over the soil surrounding heuchera helps insulate the soil during winter and improve moisture retention. About 3 inches of space between the plant’s crown and the mulch allows air circulation, which prevents rotting and disease. Replenishing the mulch throughout the year ensures proper winter protection and hinders the establishment of competitive weeds.
Fertilizing
Apply a 10-10-10 NPK fertilizer monthly during the spring and summer months at half the rate recommended by the manufacturer’s instructions. Watering the soil before and after applying prevents root burn and dissolves the fertilizer, releasing the nutrients. Heuchera requires minimal nutrients and does not require fertilization during the fall or winter months.
Dead-Heading
Removal of faded heuchera flowers extends the blooming season and encourages the plant to form additional blossoms. This process, known as dead-heading, also prevents the plant from producing seeds and invading other portions of the lawn or garden. Severing the flower stems at their point of origin minimizes damage to the plant and makes re-blooming less stressful.
**************
From Wikipedia …
The following cultivars have gained the Royal Horticultural Society‘s Award of Garden Merit:-
- ‘Blackbird’[3]
- ‘Burgundy frost’[4]
- ‘Can-can’[5]
- ‘Chocolate veil’[6]
- ‘Fireworks’[7]
- ‘Magic wand’[8]
- ‘Molly bush’[9]
- ‘Purple petticoats’[10]
- ‘Quilter’s joy’[11]
- ‘Raspberry regal’[12]
- ‘Sashay’[13]
- ‘Smokey rose’[14]
Selected species
- Heuchera abramsii – San Gabriel Alumroot
- Heuchera alba – White Alumroot
- Heuchera alpestris – San Bernardino Alumroot
- Heuchera americana – American Alumroot
- Heuchera brevistaminea – Laguna Mountain Alumroot
- Heuchera x brizoides – Coral Bells (Hybrids)
- Heuchera cespitosa – Tufted Alumroot
- Heuchera chlorantha – Green-flowered Alumroot
- Heuchera cylindrica – Roundleaf Alumroot, Lava Alumroot
- Heuchera duranii – Duran’s Alumroot
- Heuchera elegans – Urnflower Alumroot
- Heuchera hirsutissima – Shaggy-haired Alumroot
- Heuchera maxima – Island Alumroot, Jill-of-the-Rocks
- Heuchera merriamii – Merriam’s Alumroot
- Heuchera micrantha – Crevice Alumroot, Smallflower Alumroot
- Heuchera parishii – Mill Creek Alumroot
- Heuchera parvifolia – Small-flowered Alumroot
- Heuchera pilosissima – Seaside Alumroot, Parish’s Alumroot
- Heuchera pubescens – Appalachian heuchera
- Heuchera pulchella – Sandia Alumroot
- Heuchera richardsonii – Richardson’s Alumroot
- Heuchera rubescens – Pink Alumroot
- Heuchera sanguinea – Coral Bells
- Heuchera villosa – Hairy Alumroot, Maple-leaved Alumroot
- Heuchera wootonii – Wooton’s Alumroot
Also … Native Plant Database ~ Here
Lobelia Plant Care Guide and Varieties
side note this is one of my must haves for window boxes, borders, and hanging baskets … was thinking of putting some in container with eggplant plant, think they would look great together. Warning this plant is poisonous …
Overview
A family of well-cultivated species in a variety of colors, sizes and seasonal growth patterns, lobelia offers something for every gardener to enjoy. From tall spikes bearing scarlet red blooms to trailing, low-mounding bright blue buds, lobelia also comes in white, pink, and purple shades of flowers. Whether you choose a perennial species like Lobelia cardinalis or L. siphilitica, or annual species L. erinus, growing requirements vary little.
Site
All lobelia, whether annual or perennial, prefer partial shade. When choosing a site, be sure that the area will have at least partial shade for most of the day and protection from the harshest mid-day sunshine for best results.
Soil
Most lobelia planting beds need additional organic matter, such as composted leaves or manure, to improve drainage and add nutrients. Till up to 3 inches of organic matter up to 8 inches deep into the soil prior to planting.
Water
Keep soil moist to improve lobelia plant size and health, and to encourage blooming. Annuals require up to 1 1/2 inches of water per week, according to Clemson University Cooperative Extension experts. Perennials should be watered less frequently and deeply to encourage root establishment for subsequent seasons. Allow the topsoil to dry completely between waterings.
Fertilizer
A 10-10-10 balanced fertilizer should be applied and thoroughly combined with the soil at a rate of 1 lb. per 100 square feet at the time of bed preparation. Additional fertilizer may be applied, in liquid form, to improve annual growth or bloom as needed.
Winter Care
Provide an organic mulch cover, such as composted pine needles, around perennial plants as fall approaches to protect root systems over the winter. Perennial species of lobelia can be cut back to just above ground level after blooming has ceased.
How to Grow Lobelia Erinus
Instructions
side note here Lobelia can be started easily from seeds …….
-
- 1
Buy healthy, green plants in spring with no signs of wilting or disease. Plants should be stocky with plenty of leaves. It’s actually a plus if they don’t have any flower on them so that they’ll divert their early energy into root development rather than flowering.
- 2
Plant lobelia seedlings in spring, a week or two before your season’s last frost date, in a spot where they’ll get full sun to very light shade. They appreciate a little afternoon shade.
- 3
Work a little compost into the planting soil. Lobelia likes rich soil high in organic matter.
- 4
Pinch the ends off the lobelia plants to encourage branching and fuller plants with more flowers.
- 5
Keep the soil evenly moist. If planting in a container, it’s a good idea to work in some polymer crystals into the soil to help the soil retain water.
- 6
Pull out and discard plants once heavy frost kills them in autumn.
Tips & Warnings
- When summer’s heat or humidity causes lobelia to stop blooming, just shear the plants back by half. As long as you keep the soil moist, they’ll bloom again when cooler weather hits.
- Don’t allow lobelia plants to dry out. They need ample moisture and die easily without steady water.
******************See Also ……
Native Plant Database ~ Great Blue Lobelia Wildflower
Lobelia L.
Lobelia~ Growing Guide Cornell
Perennial and Annual Lobelia Attract Butterflies and Hummingbirds
Lobelia erinus ~ Learn to Grow
just some of the Lobelia species ~ Click here for more
Selected species
- Lobelia aberdarica R.E. & T.C.E.Fries (Kenya and Uganda)
- Lobelia anatina F.Wimmer – Southwestern blue lobelia
- Lobelia anceps L.f.
- Lobelia appendiculata A.DC
- Lobelia arnhemiaca E.Wimm (Western Australia)[23]
- Lobelia assurgens L.
- Lobelia bambuseti
- Lobelia berlandieri A.DC.
- Lobelia boykinii Torr. & A.Gray ex A.DC.
- Lobelia canbyi A.Gray
- Lobelia cardinalis L. (syn. L. fulgens) – cardinal flower (Americas)
- Lobelia chinensis Lour. – Chinese: 半边莲; pinyin: bàn biān lián (East and South Asia)
- Lobelia collina Kunth (Ecuador)
- Lobelia comosa
- Lobelia coronopifolia
- Lobelia deckenii Hemsl. (Eastern Africa)
- Lobelia dentata Cav. (Eastern Australia)
- Lobelia dortmanna L. (Northern North America and Europe)
- Lobelia erinus L. – edging lobelia (Southern Africa)
- Lobelia flaccidifolia Small
- Lobelia flaccida
- Lobelia gaudichaudii A.DC (island of Oʻahu in Hawaii)
- Lobelia gerardii
- Lobelia gibberoa Hemsl.
- Lobelia heterophylla Labill.
- Lobelia hypoleuca Hillebr. – Kuhiʻaikamoʻowahie (Hawaii)
- Lobelia ilicifolia (syn. L. purpurascens) – purple lobelia
- Lobelia inflata L. – Indian tobacco (Eastern North America)
- Lobelia kalmii L. (Northern North America)
- Lobelia laxiflora Kunth – Sierra Madre Lobelia
- Lobelia leschenaultiana (C.Presl) Skottsb.
- Lobelia monostachya (Rock) Lammers (island of Oʻahu in Hawaii)
- Lobelia nicotianifolia
- Lobelia niihauensis H.St.John (islands of Hawaii)
- Lobelia oahuensis Rock (island of Oʻahu in Hawaii)
- Lobelia persicifolia Lam.
- Lobelia pratioides Benth. – poison lobelia (Australia)
- Lobelia pinifolia
- Lobelia puberula Michx.
- Lobelia pyramidalis Wall.
- Lobelia rhombifolia de Vriese
- Lobelia rosea Wall. ex Roxb.
- Lobelia sessilifolia Lamb.
- Lobelia siphilitica L. (Eastern and Central North America)
- Lobelia spicata Lam.
- Lobelia telekii Scwheinf (mountains of Uganda and Kenya)
- Lobelia tenuior R.Br.
- Lobelia thapsoidea Schott (Southeastern Brazil)
- Lobelia tupa L. (Central Chile)
- Lobelia urens L. (heath lobelia)
- Lobelia valida L.Bolus
- Lobelia zeylanica L.[24][25]
Rhododendron ~ Mountain Laurel Plant Care Guide
side note … there are over 1000 species in the rhododendron family, if you like this plant recommend further researching varieties for your environment
Rhododendron
This popular genus includes the familiar spring-blooming rhododendrons and azaleas, both of which produce large clusters of colorful flowers.About This Plant
Rhododendrons and azaleas perform best in regions with cool, moist summers. They bloom in late spring to early summer; flower colors include pink, red, violet, yellow, and white, depending on the species and variety. Size also varies considerably, from 1 or 2 feet to over 20 feet in height, so choose plants carefully to fit your garden situation. Although the distinction isn’t clearcut, in general rhododendrons are evergreen, while most azaleas are deciduous (although there are evergreen types).
Special Features
Attracts hummingbirds
Shade tolerantPlanting Instructions
Plant in spring or fall. Space plants 2 to 6 feet apart, depending on the expected mature size of the plant. Dig a hole only as deep as the root ball and 2 to 3 times as wide. If your soil is in very poor condition, amend the soil you’ve removed from the hole with a small amount of compost. Otherwise don’t amend it at all. Carefully remove the plant from the container and set it in the hole. Fill the hole half full with soil, then water it well to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets. Let the water drain, then fill the remainder of hole with soil and water thoroughly.
Care
Apply a layer of compost under the shrub each spring, spreading it out to the dripline (the area under the outermost branches). Add a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds, keeping mulch a few inches away from the trunk. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. In regions with severe winters, protect evergreen rhododendrons in the fall by wrapping burlap around them. Prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased branches anytime. Prune to reduce height after flowering in spring. Rhododendrons will grow back from old wood.
************************How to Care for a Mountain Laurel Tree
Overview
Seldom growing taller than 12 feet, the mountain laurel attains a manageable size that makes it perfect for a spot where a smaller tree may be appropriate. Kalmia latifolia is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9 and prefers a location shaded by taller trees, especially in regions where afternoon sun becomes really hot. Mountain laurels are best left to grow naturally, so little if any pruning is necessary or desirable for these remarkably undemanding plants.
Step 1
Plant your mountain laurel in a well-draining shady to partially sunny location after all danger of frost has passed for your area. Position the laurel so the crown is just above the soil surface. Acidic soil is preferred, with a range of about 4.0 to 6.5 being ideal. Amend the planting area with peat moss if you need to increase acidity.
Step 2
Apply 2 or 3 inches of an organic mulch such as pine needles, leaves or wood chips. This will help to conserve moisture and discourage weed growth.
Step 3
Water the mountain laurel thoroughly, to a depth of about 10 to 12 inches. These plants love evenly moist soil, but won’t tolerate wet feet. Soak the mountain laurel once about every week or 10 days throughout the growing season, and once more just before the ground freezes during the plant’s first year. Once established, you’ll only need to water during extremely dry spells, and once right before the onset of freezing weather each year.
Step 4
Feed the mountain laurel with an all-purpose fertilizer for acid-loving plants once each spring or fall.
Step 5
Deadhead flowers as they fade from April through June. This will encourage seasonal blooming and increase next year’s flower production.
Step 6
Prune out dead, damaged or diseased limbs as they occur throughout the growing season. Other than that, mountain laurel needs no pruning and looks best when allowed to maintain its natural growth habit. Trim up stray stems here or there if you desire a tidier appearance.
Step 7
Protect your mountain laurel from severe winter weather in zones 4 and 5. Cover the plant loosely with burlap and add several more inches of mulch to the roots.
******************See also …………
Veterinary Medicine Library
Fundamentals of Rhododendron & Azalea Culture
Growing Azaleas and Rhododendrons
Growing Mountain Laurel Plants
Plant Health Care Recommendations for Mountain Laurel
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