Sunflowers ~ Growing, Harvesting, Eating ~ you and the birds
Drying and Harvesting Sunflowers
Sunflowers have been a favourite for children, adults and seniors to grow for many years due to how easy it is to grow them – sunflowers can thrive almost anywhere where there is sufficient sun and reasonable soil. If you would like to harvest the seed heads yourself, it is helpful to learn the art of drying sunflowers. Drying sunflowers will make the sunflower seeds hard and easy to remove. Trying to remove sunflower seeds without drying the sunflower head is quite difficult, and there is no benefit to drying the seeds outside of the flower anyway. Below is outlined two different ways to get to those tasty sunflower seeds!
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Sunflower gardens are incredibly popular due to their ease and beauty, but often questions arise about how to harvest the seeds correctly. If you have planted an edible variety it is important to follow a few simple steps in order to achieve the perfect snack.
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How to Harvest Sunflower Seeds for Birds
By Melissa Mayntz, About.com Guide
Growing sunflowers is easy and inexpensive, but how you can save sunflower seeds to feed the birds months after your harvest? A few simple steps can help you raise thousands of seeds that can last for months of free bird feeding.
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Thyme: Planting, Growing, Harvesting ~ Varieties
Thyme /ˈtaɪm/ is any of several species of culinary and medicinal herbs of the genus Thymus, most commonly Thymus vulgaris.
Important species and cultivars
For a longer list of species, see Thymus (genus).
- Thymus citriodorus — various lemon thymes, orange thymes, lime thyme.
- Thymus herba-barona (caraway thyme) is used both as a culinary herb and a ground cover, and has a very strong caraway scent due to the chemical carvone.
- Thymus praecox (mother of thyme, wild thyme), cultivated as an ornamental
- Thymus pseudolanuginosus (woolly thyme) is not a culinary herb, but is grown as a ground cover.
- Thymus serpyllum (wild thyme, creeping thyme) is an important nectar source plant for honeybees. All thyme species are nectar sources, but wild thyme covers large areas of droughty, rocky soils in southern Europe (Greece is especially famous for wild thyme honey) and North Africa, as well as in similar landscapes in the Berkshire and Catskill Mountains of the northeastern US. The lowest-growing of the widely used thyme, it is good for walkways.
- Thymus vulgaris (common thyme, English thyme, summer thyme, winter thyme, French thyme,[12] or garden thyme)[13] is a commonly used culinary herb. It also has medicinal uses. Common thyme is a Mediterranean perennial which is best suited to well-drained soils and full sun.
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Botanical name: Thymus vulgaris
Plant type: Herb
USDA Hardiness Zones: 5, 6, 7, 8, 9
Sun exposure: Full Sun, Part Sun
Thyme is a small perennial shrub with lots of branches and light purple to pink flowers. It’s aromatic and has a pleasant, pungent, clover flavor. There are over fifty varieties used in cooking and gardening. English thyme is used most often in cooking.
Planting
- It’s hard to grow thyme from seeds because of slow, uneven germination. It’s easier to buy the plants or take some cuttings from a friend.
- For a head start, plant the seeds/cuttings indoors 6 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost.
- Plant the seeds/cuttings 2 to 3 weeks before the last spring frost in well-drained soil about 9 inches apart. For best growth, the soil should be about 70ºF.
- The plants should grow 6 to 12 inches in height.
- In the garden, plant thyme near cabbage.
Care
- Water normally and remember to trim the plants.
- Prune the plants back in the spring and summer to contain the growth. You can take some cuttings and plant them indoors in pots, too.
- If you have cold winters, remember to lightly mulch around the plants after the ground freezes.
Pests
- Gray mold
- Root rot
Harvest/Storage
- Throughout the summer, leaves and sprigs can be harvested at any time.
- To dry the sprigs, hang them in a dark, well-ventilated, warm area. You can also just dry the leaves by placing them on a tray. Once dried, store them in an airtight container.
- Freezing is another method of storage.
Recommended Varieties
- Lemon thyme, for a hint of lemon
- Caraway thyme, for a nice fragrance of caraway and thyme
Recipes
- Ricotta and Lemon Thyme Souffle with Raspberry Sauce
- Carrots with Brown Butter and Thyme
- Lemon Thyme Bread with Lemon Glaze
Wit & Wisdom
Burning thyme gets rid of insects in your house.
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See Also …
How to Care for a Thyme Plant
Thyme: A Growing Guide
Thyme Plant Care Guide
Carrots, Planting, Growing, Harvesting ~ Carrots in Containers
Botanical name: Daucus carota @ Old Farmer’s Almanac
Plant type: Vegetable
USDA Hardiness Zones: 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10
Sun exposure: Full Sun
Soil type: Sandy
Soil pH: Neutral
Carrots are a popular root vegetable that are easy to grow in sandy soil. They are resistant to most pests and diseases, and are a good late season crop that can tolerate frost. Not all carrots are orange; varieties vary in color from purple to white.
Planting
- Plan to plant seeds outdoors 3 to 5 weeks before the last spring frost date.
- Make sure your soil is free of stones; carrots need deeply tilled soil that they can push through.
- Have you ever seen a carrot that has grown “legs” or forked? Fresh manure, or even recently applied rotted manure, can cause carrots to fork and send out little side roots. Don’t use it before you plant your seeds.
- Plant seeds 3-4 inches apart in rows. Rows should be at least a foot apart.
Care
- Gently mulch to retain moisture, speed germination and block the sun from the roots.
- Soil should be well drained and loose to prevent forking and stunting of the root growth.
- Once plants are an inch tall, thin so they stand 3 inches apart. Snip them with scissors instead of pulling them out to prevent damage to the roots of remaining plants.
- Water at least one inch per week.
- Weed diligently.
- Fertilize 5-6 weeks after sowing.
- Carrots taste much better after a couple of frosts. Following the first hard frost in the fall, cover carrot rows with an 18-inch layer of shredded leaves to preserve them for harvesting later.
Pests
- Wireworms
- Flea Beetles
- Aster Yellow Disease will cause shortened and discolored carrot tops and hairy roots. This disease is spread by pests as they feed from plant to plant. Keep weeds down and invest in a control plan for pests such as leafhoppers. This disease has the ability to overwinter.
Harvest/Storage
- Carrots are mature at around 2 ½ months and ½ inch in diameter. You may harvest whenever desired maturity is reached.
- You may leave mature carrots in the soil for storage if the ground will not freeze.
- To store freshly harvested carrots, twist off the tops, scrub off the dirt under cold running water, let dry and seal in airtight plastic bags, and refrigerate. If you simply put fresh carrots in the refrigerator, they’ll go limp in a few hours.
- Carrots can be stored in tubs of moist sand for winter use.
Recommended Varieties
- ‘Bolero’: resists most leaf pests.
- ‘Nantesa Superior’: sweet flavor, adapts to any soil.
- ‘Thumberline’: round carrot, good for clumpy or clay soil.
Recipes
Wit & Wisdom
Carrots are biennial plants. If you leave them in the ground, the tops will flower and produce seeds the second year.
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Brussels Sprouts Plant Care Guide ~ Container Growing Guide
Brussels Sprouts @ Old Farmer’s Almanac
Botanical name: Brassica oleracea
Plant type: Vegetable
USDA Hardiness Zones: 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10
Sun exposure: Full Sun
Soil type: Any
Soil pH: Neutral
Brussels Sprouts are a member of the cabbage family, and an excellent source of protein and vitamins. They have a long growing season, and are generally more successful when grown for a fall harvest, as they only increase in flavor after a light frost or two.
Planting
- Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before last spring frost.
- While starting seeds indoors is recommended, you may also direct sow seeds 4 months before the first fall frost. You may also have luck finding seedlings at a nursery.
- Raised beds are especially recommended for cold season vegetables, especially when seasons are changing and temps are not consistent.
- Work fertilizer into soil a few days before planting or transplanting.
- Plant transplant seedlings 12-24 inches apart.
- If direct sowing seeds, plant ½ inch deep and 2-3 inches apart. Thin plants to 12-24 inches apart when they reach 6 inches tall.
- Water well at time of planting/transplanting.
Care
- Fertilize three weeks after transplanting.
- Mulch to retain moisture and keep the soil temperature cool.
- Do not cultivate, roots are shallow and susceptible to damage.
Pests
- Aphids
- Cabbage Root Maggots
- Flea Beetles
- Clubroot
- Downy Mildew
- White Mold
Harvest/Storage
- Harvest sprouts from the bottom of the stalk when they reach about 1 inch in diameter.
- Do not wash the sprouts before storing them, only right before use.
- Keep in plastic for up to 5 days, in the refrigerator.
- Protect the plant by mulching with straw or providing a cover if you plan to harvest into the winter.
Recommended Varieties
- ‘Jade Cross’ is resistant to some diseases.
- ‘Oliver’ is an early variety.
- ‘Valiant’ produces consistent, uniform sprouts.
Recipes
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How to Grow Brussels Sprouts in Pots
Brussels sprouts can’t tolerate frost, but they grow best in cool weather. Hot, dry weather results in bitter-tasting sprouts, so the plants are typically grown as fall crops. Planting Brussels sprouts in containers allows you to plant them even if your garden beds are full of summer vegetables. Transplant four-week-old seedlings into pots so the vegetables have a head start on the short fall growing season.
Things You’ll Need
- Pots
- Potting soil
- Slow-release fertilizer
Instructions
- 1
Mix 1 tablespoon of a 14-14-14 or other balanced fertilizer blend with 3 gallons of well-draining potting soil. Water the soil until it is evenly moist, but not soggy or muddy. - 2
Prepare a 12-inch diameter, 12-inch deep pot in late July or early August, approximately 100 days before the first expected frost. Fill the pot with the moistened potting soil, leaving a 2-inch space between the soil surface and pot rim. - 3
Plant one Brussels sprout seedling in the pot. Set the seedling in the pot at the same depth it was growing in its seedling container. - 4
Place the pot in a location that receives full sunlight. Locate the pot near a water source to ease irrigation. - 5
Water the Brussels sprout every day or two, or when the top inch of soil feels dry. Soil in a pot dries out more quickly than soil in a garden bed. Brussels sprouts become bitter or produce poorly if the soil is allowed to dry out completely. - 6
Fertilize the Brussels sprout plant every two weeks with a soluble fertilizer, beginning six weeks after planting in the pot. Use a high-nitrogen vegetable fertilizer at half the rate recommended on the label - 7
Harvest the sprouts from the plant as they reach an inch in diameter. Continue harvesting from the plant until all the sprouts have matured. - Brussels sprouts begin maturing near the top of the stalk first, with those near the bottom reaching maturity last.
- Remove the lower six to eight leaves on the stalk to divert the plant’s energy to the maturing sprouts.
Tips & Warnings
Other Reading
Squash & Zucchini Planting, Growing, Harvesting Guide ~ How to Container Gardening
Botanical name: Cucurbita
Plant type: Vegetable
USDA Hardiness Zones: Varies
Sun exposure: Full Sun
Soil type: Loamy
Squash is a seasonal vegetable. It is very susceptible to frost and heat damage, but with proper care it will produce a bumper crop with very few plants.
There are many varieties of summer squash to choose from, including zucchini. The main difference between winter and summer varieties is their harvest time; the longer growing period gives winter squash a tougher, inedible skin. Here are their various botanical names: Cucurbita pepo (Summer squash/Zucchini), C. maxima (True winter), C. pepo (Acorn, delicata, spaghetti) , C. moschata (butternut).
Planting
- Start seeds indoors 2 to 4 weeks before last spring frost in peat pots.
- Do not seed or tranplant seeds outside until the soil temperature is 55 to 60º F for successful germination. Usually, you can seed any time from one week after the last spring frost to midsummer. You may be able to have two crops per season if you time it right.
- The outside planting site needs to receive full sun; the soil should be moist and well-drained, but not soggy
- Work compost or aged manure into the soil before planting for a rich soil base.
- To germinate outside, use cloche or frame protection in cold climates for the first few weeks.
- When you transplant, take care not to damage the root ball.
- Plant seeds one inch deep and 2 to 3 feet apart.
- Most summer squashes now come in bush varieties, but winter squash is a vine plant and needs more space. They will need to be thinned in early stages of development.
Care
- Mulch plants to protect shallow roots, discourage weeds, and retain moisture.
- Plants love lots of compost and will produce better if well fed. When the first blooms appear, apply a small amount of fertilizer as a side dress application and water thoroughly.
- After harvest begins, fertilize occasionally for vigorous growth and lots of fruits.
- For all type of squash, frequent and consistent watering is recommended. Water most diligently when fruits form and throughout their growth period.
- To know when to water, use the finger method. Put your finger in the soil and if it’s dry beyond the first joint, it needs watering.
- If your fruits are misshapen, they might not have received enough water or fertilization.
Pests
- If your zucchini blooms flowers but never bears actual zucchini, or it bears fruit that stops growing when it’s very small, then it’s a pollination issue. Most squashes have separate male and female flowers on the same plant. To produce fruit, pollen from male flowers must be physically transferred to the female flowers by bees. If you do not have enough bees, you can manually pollinate with a Q-tip—or, add nearby plants that attract bees!
- Cucumber Beetle (link to pest page)
- Squash Bug (link to pest page)
- Squash Vine Borer (link to pest page)
- Blossom End Rot: If the blossom ends of your squash turn black and rot, then your squash have blossom-end rot. This condition is caused by uneven soil moisture levels, often wide fluctuations between wet and dry soil. It can also be caused by calcium levels. To correct the problem, water deeply and apply a thick mulch over the soil surface to keep evaporation at a minimum. Keep the soil evenly moist like a wrung out sponge, not wet and not completely dried out.
- Stink Bug: If your squash looks distorted with dippled area, the stink bugs overwintered in your yard. You need to spray or dust with approved insecticides and hand pick in the morning. Clean up nearby weeds and garden debris at the end of the season to avoid this problem.
- Aphids (link to pest page)
Harvest/Storage
- Harvest summer squash when small and tender for best flavor. Most varieties average 60 days to maturity, and are ready as soon as a week after flowering.
- Check plants everyday for new produce.
- Cut the gourds off the vine rather than breaking them off.
- Fresh summer squash can be stored in the refrigerator for up to ten days.
- Harvest winter squash when rind is hard and deep in color, usually late September through October.
- Winter squash can be stored in a cool, dark place until needed. It will last for most of the winter. If you have a cool bedroom, stashing them under the bed works well. They like a temperature of about 50 to 65 degrees F.
- Freezing Summer squash: Wash it, cut off the ends, and slice or cube the squash. Blanch for three minutes, then immediately immerse in cold water and drain. Pack in freezer containers and freeze.
- Freezing Winter squash: Cook as you normally would, then mash. Pack in freezer containers.
- Pull up those vines and compost them after you’ve picked everything or after a frost has killed them. Then till the soil to stir up the insects a bit.
Recommended Varieties
- ‘Goldbar’ (yellow summer)
- ‘Cocozelle’ (zucchini) dark green, slender
- ‘Butterbush’ (butternut)
- ‘Cream of the Crop’ (acorn hybrid, prize winning)
Recipes
Wit & Wisdom
Squash flowers make a tasty treat when fried in a light batter.
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How to Grow and Care for Zucchini in Containers
Photo by Mangus Manske
Intro: Zucchini plants are hybrids with cucumbers. Growing zucchini in plant containers in kitchen gardens is easy, and your plants should produce great-tasting fruit quickly. There are a few zucchini varieties, but most are a dark green color. Some zucchini varieties are light green, yellow or orange. Because zucchini plants are large, choose a very large plant container that is at least 2 feet by 2 feet for one plant. If you crowd your zucchini plants, it will negatively affect the yield.
Scientific Name: Cucurbita pepo hybrid
Plant Type: This plant is considered an annual vegetable, although the zucchini is technically a fruit.
Light: Full sun
Water: When it comes to watering your zucchini plants, provide well-draining potting soil that is constantly moist but never soggy.
Zone: The zucchini plant is a warm-weather crop.
Fertilizer: When you prepare the potting soil for planting, introduce compost or a slow-release fertilizer. Also add a slow-release fertilizer to your zucchini plants once a month for the rest of the growing season.
Pests and Diseases: Snails and slugs can be a common garden problem with zucchini plants. Powdery mildew is prevalent in crowded plants. Keep the zucchini leaves dry when watering, and cut off affected leaves.
Propagation: Sow zucchini seeds directly outside in the kitchen garden after the last frost has passed. Plant the seeds about three-fourths of an inch deep in the potting soil. You can also begin seeds indoors in March if you want to get started early. Zucchini seeds will germinate in about a week, give or take a couple of days. Thin zucchini seedlings by cutting weak seedlings (don’t pull the seedlings out) once two true leaves have formed. Fruit will not form without bees and other pollinators. Don’t use pesticides on your zucchini that will affect pollinators.
Misc. Info: Harvest your zucchini from the kitchen garden once they’re about 8 inches long and at least 1.5 inches thick. Don’t wait too long, or the zucchini fruit will dry out and not taste as good.
Zucchini blooms are also eaten, just like pumpkin flowers, and can be fried or eaten in a quesadilla. Unlike the cucumber, zucchini fruit is usually cooked. It can be cooked in many different ways. Use your zucchini within three days.
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See Also …
How to Grow Zucchini | Guide to Growing Zucchini
How to Grow Zucchini
Zucchini: A Growing Guide @ Organic Gardening
Solutions For Common Problems Growing Zucchini
Rhubarb Planting, Care and Harvesting Guides
Rhubarb
Botanical name: Rheum rhabarbarum
Plant type: Fruit
Sun exposure: Full Sun
Rhubarb is a perennial vegetable, though it is generally used as a fruit in desserts and jams. You only eat the stalks, which have a rich tart flavor. The leaves of this plant are poisonous, so be sure that they are not ingested. Rhubarb is easy to grow, but needs cool weather to thrive.
Planting
- Before planting, eliminate all perennial weeds.
- Choose a site that is well-drained, fertile, and preferably in full sunlight. It does best where the average temperature falls below 40ºF in the winter and below 75ºF in the summer.
- Plant rhubarb roots (not seeds) in early spring well before the first light frost so that root development may take place.
- Dig large bushel basket-size holes. Space rhubarb plants about 4 feet apart and plant the roots 1 to 2 inches below the surface of the soil.
- Be sure to mix compost, rotted manure, or anything high in organic matter in the soil. Rhubarb plants are heavy feeders and need this organic matter. Don’t add a chemical fertilizer when planting rhubarb or during the first year of growth. Direct contact with nitrates can kill your rhubarb plants.
Care
- Mulch generously with a heavy layer of straw and cow manure to provide nutrients for the plant, retain moisture, and discourage weeds.
- Water your plant well. It needs sufficient moisture during the summer.
- Remove seed stalks as soon as they appear.
- After the first spring, apply a light sprinkling of a high-nitrogen fertilizer (25-3-3 or 10-6-4) when the ground is thawing or has just thawed, so that the fertilizer will go into the ground and not harm the roots.
- Insects and diseases won’t bother rhubarb plants as long as you keep the plants weed-free.
- Dig and split rhubarb roots every 3 to 4 years.
Pests
- Crown rot
Harvest/Storage
- Do not harvest any stalks during the first growing season so that your plants can become established. (Side note ~ took a clump last year from friends garden and you can see how well it has done. what i did was remove the entire clump and leave in original sod, dug a quick hole double space needed for root ball and filled around original root ball with good garden mix of topsoil, peat moss and compost. it should be fine as long as roots are not disturbed in transplant.)
- Harvest the stalks when they are 12 to 18 inches long. Usually after 3 years, the harvest period runs 8 to 10 weeks long. If the stalks become thin, stop harvesting; this means the plant’s food reserves are low.
- Grab the base of the stalk and pull it away from the plant with a gentle twist. If this doesn’t work, you can cut the stalk at the base. Be sure the discard of the leaves!
- Always leave at least 2 stalks per plant to ensure continued production. You may have a bountiful harvest for up to 20 years without having to replace your rhubarb plants.
Recommended Varieties
- Red rhubarb varieties, which are more tender. Some include ‘Valentine’, ‘Crimson Cherry’, and ‘Canada Red’.
Recipes
- Rhubarb Crunch
- Strawberry Rhubarb Pie
- Rhubarb Grilled Chicken
- Rhubarb Pudding (An old recipe)
- Blueberry-Rhubarb Jam
- Rhubarb Punch
- Cold Rhubarb Soup
- Stewed Rhubarb with Spiced Whipped Cream
Wit & Wisdom
Rhubarb has many other uses, from medicinal to cosmetic. See how to naturally lightening your hair with rhubarb.
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How to Harvest Rhubarb ~ Photo Guide
Grandma’s Rhubarb Crunch
Rhubarbanana Bread
Auntie Dogma's Garden Spot 
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